Luft Wulf "Texaco Motor Bike"

GTX · Oct 11, 2010

Just starting on this one...
Murray USA frame,Wald USA flipped bars,shaved seat post,Arrowhead 3" rear extentions.I have a tan vintage Troxel saddle for it,still looking at mounting it.
FYI,the neck on old Murray bikes is pefect for 1 1/8 headsets.The Origin 8 Pro threadless set and Felt Abraham springer go right on,no cutting req.The Felt will not break like the Monark re-pops,and it's less than $100.I ordered direct from Felt,got it fast,and shipping was very well priced! I got the fork and 2 Brick tires shipped for $11.
The tires are Felt Quick Brick 26" whitewalls,wheels are old Murray steelies.The engine is a Grubee GT-5,a direct bolt-on on Murray frames, and a SBP pipe.

This is the bike I started the build with...scary.

culvercityclassic · Oct 11, 2010

That bike is looking real good. Keep us posted on the build.

sparrow69 · Oct 11, 2010

where'd you get those rear extensions?

silverbear · Oct 11, 2010

Your springer fork looks good. I went to the Felt site and all I see is a single spring of the Schwinn type at $70.00 which is an OK price if the quality of the forks and spring is good. I don't see the Monark type as you have. Do you know these are good springers?
SB

GTX · Oct 11, 2010

The 3" rear axle extensions are something I make for most of my bikes...I can't stand short wheelbase bikes at speed.The front fork extends it some too.
They ar 3/16 x 3" steel plate you can get at Lowes or Tractor Supply Co.I would make them in bulk to sell,but every frame is different.I have done Huffy,Schwinn,Murray,Next,etc. and they are not even close to each other.The plate is way stronger and thicker than the stock dropouts,so ity's not the weak point.They are bolted on with HD bolts and nylock nuts.
The other reason I do it is to solidly mount the rear axle.It only takes a small movement to de-chain the drive on the left side.Sometimes I use 1/2 links on the right side chain to get it right.The left side can be a little loose because of the tensioner adjustment.Also with the rear tire moved back,the tensioner can be placed out of range of damaging the spokes if it moves.

GTX · Oct 11, 2010

silverbear said:
Your springer fork looks good. I went to the Felt site and all I see is a single spring of the Schwinn type at $70.00 which is an OK price if the quality of the forks and spring is good. I don't see the Monark type as you have. Do you know these are good springers?
SB

FELT ABRAHAM LINKAGE CRUISER FORK - Felt Bicycles
When you pick them up,you can tell they are bulletproof...very nice with polished hardware...
this is the bike they come on...not a cheapee model.
Slater - Felt Bicycles

darkhawk22 · Oct 11, 2010

Thanks for the springer link, that's note a bad price on those.

sparrow69 · Oct 11, 2010

thanks for the info on the axle extensions, like you, i like a longer leaner look.

GTX · Oct 11, 2010

Why pay $100 for Monark repros,then pay again to get them re-welded? Another plus to the Felt springer is that you can get fatty tires in there without rubbing.There is over 3 1/4" clearance.I had to put in axle washers on each side to take up slack.A disc brake adapter would be simple to do if you have disc wheels.Look at the Monark adapters,they are just flat stock cut and drilled.I may put one on this build,but I am trying to be a Minimalist on it.If there was an internal throttle,like Exile Cycles Russel Mitchell designed,that fit MB carbs,I might get it.I have run the wiring inside the frame and bars on a Shovelhead,so I iwill try it on this one.
I would get a Felt springer before they run out.As you can see on the Felt site,they only list what's available in stock.Other parts may be ordered thru your LBS Felt dealer,but I don't have one anyway.

silverbear · Oct 11, 2010

That's a reasonable price for sure. Is that threaded? Would it work on a vintage Schwinn (1950's) or a Worksman NB? Have you used this fork before? I'm wondering how stiff the springs are or if they are too soft. I'll be interested to hear how they work out on your bike. They sure look nice. If anybody knows about the stiffness of the spring on the Schwinn type springer they sell I'd like to know. Some of the repros out there have very soft springs, not at all appropriate for a 200 pound circus bear. Thanks for sharing this build, very nice.
SB

MotorBicycleRacing · Oct 11, 2010

silverbear said:
That's a reasonable price for sure. Is that threaded? Would it work on a vintage Schwinn (1950's) or a Worksman NB?
SB

I don't know about the Worksman but aren't old Schwinns 1" headsets?

FYI,the neck on old Murray bikes is pefect for 1 1/8 headsets.The Origin 8 Pro threadless set and Felt Abraham springer go right on,no cutting req

GTX · Oct 11, 2010

The Felt springer is 1 1/8 threadless...my LBS gave me the Black alloy Bontrager threadless stem for the handlebars.They pull them off stock Trek bikes to upgrade to the super thick alloy bars for customers. The Origin 8 Pro sealed bearing neckset is about $25.No more grease,or dirt worries,and it stays in adjustment better than threaded.Set it and forget it.

P.S. SB...I am 200lbs and I had to push with both hands to compress the springer some...The Felt bike they came on would be expected to be curb jumped by adults.

GTX · Oct 19, 2010

Ready to roll out...

The seat is not flat...it looks that way in photos though...it has a kickup in front and back and 1/4" hi-dens. foam.

sparrow69 · Oct 20, 2010

that seat just pull sit all together! It looked sharp before, now it just looks amazing!

seanf49 · Oct 27, 2010

Great job there! How does it ride? I'm sure wonderfully.

Could you give any more info on those rear dropout extenders? They look awesome, could really use a pair for my bike. If you could let me in on any details of how you made them, I'd be grateful. Or just let me know if you plan on making them for people, I'd be in on it.

Oh, and how's the coaster brake? Do you think it's adequate for stopping quickly?

Thank you much!

.shft.

GTX · Oct 27, 2010

It needs a coaster/drum brake up front to be safer.That would bump the price up though.I try to keep them under $800 and leave some room for the customer to add things to make it their own.I have sold a couple bikes that were used for wall art in a garage/man cave....this is what this one is oriented towards,but it can be used if desired.The seat is rigid,but the Felt tires smooth the ride well.
I really can't make the extensions to sell on the rear axle because every frame's dropout is different.
They are made of 3/16" thick x 3" wide weld steel from Tractor Supply...Lowes has it,but it's more$$.
The good things about the extension are, you can make your pedal chain fit without a chain tensioner by customizing the plate length,you can put axle slots in the plate to have adjustment when you install on a frame that has vert dropouts,like a MTB frame,and the additional length helps stability at speed alot. I have a '48 Roadmaster with a long wheel base,so I know how I want it to feel.I usually don't slot the extenders so the wheel is in lockdown...a slight movement sideways will sometimes drop a chain on the engine drive.

seanf49 · Oct 27, 2010

Looks great either way. I'm glad you could tell me more about the dropout extenders, it's strange I haven't seen more of them around. I'll have to pick up some of that weld steel and fabricate a pair for my bike. That seat does look pretty rigid, but it goes with the bike very well.

You do great work with your bikes.

GTX · Oct 28, 2010

Thanks! I use old USPS Flat Rate boxes for templates.They are strong enough to use a gasket punch for the holes and bolt them on for fitment. Just cut the box into 3"x6" long strips so you know how much room you have to work with.You can put in a little axle raise to lower the bike if you want.I try to hug the chainstay and seatstay to give it strength if possible.My extenders are mounted on the outside,so you will have to put spacer washers on the inside.Drill the holes for the axle studs a little large so you can get the wheel out by dropping one side of the axle out at a time,outerwise you would have to unbolt one extender plate.For sure,use locking nuts! If you are sure about everything after riding it,you can put a couple tack welds on the back side of the plates.It won't heat the frame enough to hurt it.The plates are thicker than the dropouts on the frame,so they are not the weak point.
I use Bosch metal jigsaw blades with the plate in a vise.Work slow and smooth,don't make sharp turns,cut to the end,then come back at another angle.You should be able to cut several sets with one blade after practicing.I also have a Craftsman drill press and grinder,but it can be done with power tools.

seanf49 · Oct 28, 2010

Thanks for the help, I'll make sure to get to making them soon. Seem easy enough to make. I was going to ask how you thought the strength was on the pair, but you've already told me. Nylon ringed locking nuts for sure, my back wheel vibrating off and me falling through does not seem like a fun accident.

RebelHellbilly · Oct 28, 2010

awesome bike. i like the rear drops outs too. they welded or bolted on?

WayneO42 · Oct 28, 2010

I see three bolts on your extensions (not including the axle nut). Are they bolted through the dropout or did you drill into the frame?

Luft Wulf "Texaco Motor Bike"

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