Greyhound governor & throttle help needed

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I'm looking for some photos showing different ways of hooking up the throttle cable to the Greyhound motor. I can no doubt cobble something, but it would be great to see how others have done it. Can you take a shot of your setup and post it here? Also, does anyone have before and after photos of the governor disconnect? Thank you.
SB
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Here ya go Silverbear, a few shots of the throttle set-up. There is a small bearing underneath the governor lever on the shaft which isolates it from the shaft. I may have a before pic, I'll have to see if I can find it. The cable is not connected in these pics, but it's sitting almost in place on the one pic 1....








Cheers
 
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scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Well after testing, the bearing wasn't doing the job, sooo.....I re-routed it making a custom mount using the front derailluer clamp that was removed. Here's the pics, an easy fix...all that's left to do here is drill the top of the throttle linkage where the wire (rod) attached before and mount a small swivel.....piece of cake and fully adjustable.



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Hope this helps.....dnut
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Very nice, straightforward and simple. Just this evening I removed all of the external aspects of the governor which sure cleans things up nicely. There's a good looking motor under all the junk. (not junk, but you know what I mean.) I really like the way the piston lays back. Anyway, tomorrow I'll look at a couple of old multi speeds in the department of dead bikes to see if have a similar donor. Nice, too, that it is adjustable. What will you use for the swivel?
Regarding the governor, I also removed the arm and replaced the nut. Is there anything else which needs to be done to the governor... be in a certain position or something? My tranny should be here by the weekend, so I'm hoping for a test run pretty soon. Woo hoo! Thanks for your help.
SB
 

Buzzard

Member
Jul 9, 2008
264
5
18
Lincoln, NE
Yo SB.....here's what I did to my engine...I removed all the external governor parts and all internal govparts...removed the side cover and fly wheel took a small punch and punched iut the gov.wheel if you turn the crank shaft in the right position the tov.wheel will come right out and you can pull the shaft out through the top hole. I drilled and tapped both holes and installed allen screw plugs and lock tight. I also removed the low oil shut down gizmo its held in by 2 screws and reassembled the engine if you don't plug the top hole the oil will leak out around the shaft and make a mess out of everything on long rides. It's not that hard to do just take your time.
I had trouble with my throttle too I had to use fishing line and a small spring on the carb throttle shaft just to make it home one time. Looks like there are some very good ideas how to get that throttle to work right,
buzzard
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Killroy,
A cable knarp. My bike stuff vocabulary is expanding. Never knew what that was. I learned from Scotto today what a carburetor swivel is. Same dealy as the throttle connects to on the HS. I'm going to see if Napa has one. Scotto gave me a link to buy one for $2.00 which I would do if the shipping for the little thing wasn't $7.00. My local chainsaw guy may have something, too. If not I have figured out something less elegant that Scottos's or Jim's but which will work using leftovers from the ousted Governor.
Speaking of which, Buzzard, you mean I'm not done with that bum? I thought with the stuff I removed he was long gone, but he's still down inside that engine, eh? Is there no way to seal things up around the shaft so no oil can leak out? A little dab of good old JBWeld for example? Why does it leak out? Would it leak out if the Governor linkage was still there? And do I need to remove the low oil sensor? Does it actually interfere with anything? I had the idea that shutting the motor down because of low oil might be good, but now that I'm thinking about it, the engine was designed to sit flat, stationary. On a bike we're going up and down hills, etc. and I suppose that could give a false reading to the little sensor and shut down the motor. Is that the reason to remove it? What about just deactivating it somehow. What would happen if you just clipped the wire?
SB
 

Elmo

New Member
Sep 3, 2009
748
4
0
Mississippi
My governor is still in the engine and I have had no leaks even on my 120 mile ride. Not saying that some of them won't leak, just that mine hasn't.
 

Buzzard

Member
Jul 9, 2008
264
5
18
Lincoln, NE
Elmo I set my throttle up like Scottos furst picture, The shaft had quite a bit of side to side play and I couldn't get my throttle to work right. so I went in to the engine and removed the gov wheel and shaft (correction: I took it out through the bottom not the top) there was no O rings or seals and the engine un a splash lubed engune. On some of my first rides with this throttle set up I was leaking some oil. Maybe I got a bummer for an engune on this set up. Sine then I have drilled and tapped the hole and plugged it with a 20tpi allen plug The oil shut down was also removed because if I hit a heavy bump or hole the engine would shut down all this works for me I wish everybody the same luck with theirs.
buzzard
 

Elmo

New Member
Sep 3, 2009
748
4
0
Mississippi
Thanks Buzzard (what is the story behind this name?) I had to disconnect my oil shut down because it started killing the engine for no reason. Plenty of oil and the bike would be straight up and it would just die. I have had this problem on a couple of briggs gen engines so this was the first thing I looked at. It could be a bear to find if you had no idea that they could fail in this way.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I think I'll just wait and see if there is a leaking problem and if not, leave it along. If I do, then I know how to deal with it, so thank you or that. Regarding the low oil sensor, it sounds like a first thing to do is deactivate it. If I just disconnect the wire or clip it, that should do it I would think. I know it would stop any signal coming from the switch... but it should have no ill effect on the wiring, right?
Thanks you guys.
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I wanted to find a carburetor swivel like the one Scotto used on his Greyhound (first picture), but my local Napa and hardware stores didn't have anything like that and the one online from the site Scotto gave a link to wanted $2.00 for the swivel and $7.00 to ship it. If I find one sometime I'll use it, but in the mean time and maybe forever I'll use this cheap little setup using leftover's from the ousted governor hardware and a couple scrounged caliper brake parts. I used the spring which was attached to the control arm and ran it back to a bolt which had held governor parts in place, same as Scotto did. I wanted to utilize the little rod which was also fitted to the carb control and reversed it so that it now points toward the seat post. I drilled a small hole as big as the throttle cable, but smaller than the stop on the end of it. Then I used the dremel cut off wheel and made a little slot to the outer edge of the washer (also left over from the removed parts). See the second photo. Then I realized it could conceivably work it's way loose and instead drilled a hole toward the inside edge of the washer and did the slot to the bolt hole at the center. So that's to hold the throttle cable. The little bolt at the center makes it impossible for it to come loose, so that's better. The bolt is from a caliper brake and is meant to lock the cable tight. If you ever had a caliper brake then you recognize that little bolt. The connecting rod attached to the carburetor arm fits right through that cable hole. Tighten down the nut and it locks the connecting rod. So that means it is also adjustable. Not as elegant as the carb swivel, but cheap and works. Next is the holder for the throttle cable at the anchor point...
(Cont.)
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I used three bits of hardware for this part of the operation, the anchor point for the throttle cable housing. First note the threaded bolt deal which is hollow with a hole running through it. It, too, is from the caliper brake and you will recognize it as fulfilling the same function there on the original brake for the brake cable as it now does for the throttle cable. I did drill it out a wee bit so that the little stop on the end of the cable could fit through the hole. What that is attached to is a little angle brace, a corner brace I believe it's called. It could be just a bent piece of metal with two holes in it, but this is ready made and I had it in my 'stuff', so why make use of what is sitting there? The other end of the brace is attached to that same electrical ground rod clamp I was going to use under the rear motor mount. I found another seat post clamp and instead used that under the motor mount as it is stronger and that also freed up this ground rod clamp which I thought would make a nice anchor for the throttle. I glued scrap leather to the inside of the clamp to protect the paint and am attaching it to the seat post close to the engine and carburetor. So the throttle cable passes through the anchor point and holds the cable housing fast. The bare cable it attached to the drilled washer as shown in the post before this one. This should work fine It is not quite as simple at the carburetor swivel, but not bad. Once the motor is mounted I can hook it all up, but now I can stop thinking about the governor and the throttle hookup. Thanks to all who showed how they hooked up their throttle. It is so interesting to see the variations. And they all work!
SB
 

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Buzzard

Member
Jul 9, 2008
264
5
18
Lincoln, NE
Yo ELmo... buzzard goes back a long time outlaw motorcycle riding days... rode with a club called Diablos seems like everytime one of the bikes would go down I was the one that could usually scrounge up something to fix it one time a bike threw its chain out in the middle of no where and there was an old combine setting in the weeds I went over and opened it up and knew what I was looking gor most these old things had some kind of chain drive for the workings...low and behold I found what i was looking for some master links and chain with tothing ut a pair of poiers a hammer and screwdriver I fixed it. The club gave me the name buzzard cause I could scrounge up something 4eberytime to fix anything. My riding buddy nick name was snake**** don't ask how he got his name LOL
buzzard
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
A little tip when ordering parts from places like DDM's....orders over $100 get free shipping. So, shop for any and every thing you may possibly need from them (if that's possible), like copper gaskets, expansion chambers, engines, whatever and then throw those little $2 items in and it's not so bad. I love free shipping! On the other hand, I'm not made of money so I've got to shop wisely....did I say I love free shipping? And they have nice fuel line and cool inline fuel filters.....not too mention the tachometer that I'm running now which is a good deal. Just so ya know....
 
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