Belt Drive

I was just wondering Pappy,

They sell square rod stock to use in keyways. It's sold by the foot and I've
bought it that way before.

Could small pieces of it be brazed into the rim at 0 degrees, 45, 90, 135, 180,
225, 270, 315, and serve as cog teeth without having any interference in
the operation. It would seem that if 180 degrees of the driven hub were
indexed with the drive hub that the teeth of the belt would mesh properly
and give some extra traction without slippage. But this may have 4 teeth
on the driven hub in contact with the belt at any given time.

I'm guessing if one had a rim that had a true flat spoke base where the rubber spoke band would lay, that a machine shop could cut a piece of bar stock with teeth in it to match the belt and then form it
to to conture of the rim. I would imagine that it could then be secured by welding
or brazing thru the spoke holes to have a full bed of teeth to mesh with the belt.
But it's just a thought

The question I have, is would the belt drive attached to the spokes be any stronger/weaker
than the chain sprocket that's bolted to the spokes closer to the hub. And if the belt drive is
weaker what can be done to dampen the shock load on it from a standing start.

And have i answered my own question The slippage might not be such a bad thing afterall ?

Very good.

When I go junkin I'll know what to look for. I think the Mazda of that same vintage
is about the same engine.

I must have misread something as I was understanding you were attaching a rim to
the spokes. Either way this is something I've had on my list to learn more about
in considering a vintage build.

By the way, about how much did your motor set you back ? Did you purchase it
new ?

Pappy, Did You Get The Belt When You Bought The Crank Pulley. I Think The Spring Loaded Tensioner Could Be Of Use. The Spring May Be Too Strong.you May Not Need Cogs On The Rear Rim. If You Could Get And Extra Belt To Pop Rivet To The Rim For Traction ( With The Cogs Against The Rim). With That Big Of Rear Sheave You May Not Need The Cogs For Traction ( It Would Just Be A Flat Belt Drive). That Large Rear Sheave Should Have Enough Friction, Especially With The Light Spring Tension. That Cam Belt Could Be Trimmed Narrow`r If It`s To Wide For The Rear Sheave. That Belt Would Be Many Times Stronger Than Need Be. It Would Be Best To Have The Spring Loaded Tensioner Close To Crank Sprocket For More Wrap On That Small Diamiter Drive Gear. A Spring Loaded Tensioner (soft=weak) So It Just Keeps The Slack Out Of The System. Pappy I Think You Have Come Up With A Great & Cheap Diy Build Belt System. Congrats!! Now If You Could Measure For Belt Length Needed And Maybe An Auto Parts Store Would Have A Listing By Length. I THINK YOU WILL BE GEARED FOR STARTING POWER BUT SHOULD BE OK. Ron

Pappy, Windows Have Up And Down, Would You Have Reverse With That Setup? Ha Ha. I Think That May Be The Gear Ratio Control, Not Sure Though. My Mustang Is Going Ok On Ebay (item 190304219315), I May Be Able To Get One Of Jims Cnc Engines. Man, I`m Glad I Got Things To Sell. There Isn`t Any Work To Be Had. Ron

Besides working a bit with MS Paint to illustrate it, I came up with an idea for
an adapter for using a smaller size driven rim on a larger rear wheel. On the
chopper with the OCC rim the tire would stand tall enough to clear for a belt
drive and not spoil or confuse the look of the OCC rim with a smaller one inside
it.

But in the instance where you are using a 26 X 2.25 rear wheel and want the
smaller 16 or 20 inch rim attached for the belt drive I was wondering about
doing this. There are plenty of old, cough, cough, wheeze, aluminum signs
along side the road that are .060 or more thickness. After cleaned up to bare
aluminum on both sides a 26 inch circle (or whatever the actual dia of the 26"
rim actually is) could be scribed on the metal and smaller ones within it to allow for
the wall of the 26 inch rim and centered within that the 20 or 16 inch rim's wall.
Between the two circles (think mag wheels) spokes could be drawn that could carry
the stress of the drive torque from the belt. The outer circle may have to be cupped
upward to allow for the outward flare of the 26 inch rim (where it rivits to it) and the
spokes to the otherwise flat center circle that will rivit to the driven rim the belt will
run in.

If this could work, 1) you a builder wouldn't have to anchor the driven rim to the
spokes in any way. 2) and it may provide for the belt driven use of an old
vintage motor from earlier days for the build, and the overall look of a vintage build.

In the illustration the adapter is dished outward quite a bit just for sake of the
example. It may be able to remain nearly flat when using a 20 inch rim with only
the outer edge warped upward.

See what you think below

Pappy said:

Well she finished, what do you think?

Click to expand...

YOU DID MAN! That thing looks GREAT!!


If 15:1 drives right for you then its all good!

Man, Pappy, That Looks Great!! Where Did You Ever Find A Belt That Long?? You Could Get A Job In Another State With That Nice Big Tank. Have You Had A Cruise With It Yet. What Happened To The Frame You Bolted Up Before? That Big Tank Looks Like It Belongs There. Ron

That's a real piece of work there Pappy ! I'd love to see it on UTube
after you get everything ironed out to to suit you.

Are ya thinking about new paint schemes for it or happy with it like that ?

Nice slide show pap!
Can that be put on Utube? So, the average joe might stubble into it? Maybe with video if you have camera?







pedals? don't want you to get into trouble

I Looked At My Three Oc Choppers This Morning (i Keep Them In A Safe!! Lol) I Did Not Even Know They Have Freewheel Rear Sprockets On The Rear. I Bought Them Right. 3 Like New- Total 175. I Thought They Had Coaster Hubs & Brakes. Now A May Put A Cvt Belt Drive On One For The Little Lady. When My Ebay Auction Closes Tomorrow Nite On The 70 Mustang, I Will Have Some Mab Money Again. I Think I Will Get A Dax Titan 4 Stroke Engine For The Cvt. It May Hurt The Overall Look Of The Oc But Will Sure Work Good. Ron

Pappy, Your Belt Is Grooved Length Ways, Not Cogged? That May Be A Problem. A V Belt Wedges And Does Not Work Well If It Bottoms Out. So Your Flat Belt May Need Cogs. Just Something To Think About. Don`t Want You Wearing Out Anymore Shoes. Lol. Ron

Pappy said:

Hi eDj, Thank you.
Im just useing the basic paint program that comes with windows.

Click to expand...

windows GASP NEED AIR

i was also stuck in the rule of windows

i am nolonger in the comunist world where people belive if you are given a chance to do somthing ileagal with your pc you will.

linux the answer to everything
GIMP is way better than mscrap
LOL

UBUNTU 9.04 user