Micargi/Flying Horse Build (Bikeberry)

zombie68 · Feb 24, 2013

O.K., so here goes. I am attempting to post a pic of the beginning of this build. This is the Micargi General with the Flying Horse engine kit from Bikeberry. Please bear with me as I figure this out.....
**Sorry about the poor picture quality. I am trying to figure out how to use the camera, also.**

F_Rod81 · Feb 24, 2013

I'd say your off to a good start. Not much to it, keep the pictures coming! (^)

zombie68 · Feb 24, 2013

I am having difficulty with the drive sprocket, though. It won't seem to move so I can get the chain threaded through it. Even pushing the clutch arm all the way over with my hand won't release it. Any suggestions?

EDIT: It ended up moving. It was just a bit more stubborn than I thought a motor this small could be

runnermike · Feb 24, 2013

That's a good looking build. Nice job!

zombie68 · Feb 24, 2013

All I need to do now is a few small adjustments, tighten everything down, re-route/fasten some cables and put some fuel in it.The fuel line that came with the kit is crap so I have to pick one up (with filter) in the morning.
If you spot any obvious errors I may have made, please let me know

P.S. I am aware that the tensioner is on backwards...get to it in the morning.

azbill · Feb 25, 2013

while working on the tensioner, you should slide it farther back,,,
put the wheel all the way down and move it back until there is approx 1/2" of play in the chain

afterwards, when the chain stretches (and it will

)
you can move the tensioner wheel up to take out the slack

zombie68 · Feb 25, 2013

azbill said:
while working on the tensioner, you should slide it farther back,,,
put the wheel all the way down and move it back until there is approx 1/2" of play in the chain

afterwards, when the chain stretches (and it will )
you can move the tensioner wheel up to take out the slack

Thanks, I had not considered that.
I solved the issue, however, by removing the tensioner completely. I just have to be sure my sprocket is centered exactly so the chain stays on......

zombie68 · Feb 25, 2013

Well, the bike is done, but the maiden voyage was a failure. It turns out the CDI is bad. Also, the plug boot gave up it's innards the third time I pulled it off the plug!

I called Bikeberry and talked to them. Great, hassle free customer service as they said they will send me a new one.

Looks like all the fun is put off until next weekend.... :-||

darkhawk22 · Feb 25, 2013

Great work!

Do yourself a favor and get a distributor plug wire from the auto supply store and cut one end off to the length you need and thread it into the CDI. Make sure you have a good ground to your engine as well sometimes that will make it seem like your CDI is bad. Lastly, check the gap on your plug. Also, you're right about the gas line, get some from the auto supply as well.

jeanpi · Feb 25, 2013

I'm new to this forum, i just finished building my second bike saturday, but my first 1 has me a bit confused, it only runs at full power with the choke up, i don't know if it's because i might have an air leak, or if im put in my break in gas from the other bike in the old 1, (16:1 mixture), i have a new ngk spark plug witch is gapped at .30 of an inch, i go to school for automotive technology, my teacher told me put some carb cleaner into the carberator while it's at idle and rev it a little, i did and got rid of allot of old carbon build up, but i saw right there where the carburator is connected to the intake i saw some carb cleaner coming out through just a bit not much, im a bit confused and want to fix the issue, i think with a new carburator i'll be good rather then rebuilding it because i already cleaned it the other day
P.S. i cant figure out how to start a thread/post

zombie68 · Feb 25, 2013

darkhawk22 said:
Do yourself a favor and get a distributor plug wire from the auto supply store and cut one end off to the length you need and thread it into the CDI. Make sure you have a good ground to your engine as well sometimes that will make it seem like your CDI is bad. Lastly, check the gap on your plug.

Does it make a difference if use a carbon core plug wire or a copper core plug wire?

Will the carbon "black thread" core contact the CDI "screw" enough to contact and function? Those kinds of plug wires are still a mystery to me....

darkhawk22 · Feb 25, 2013

I'm using the new style cable and it works great. The screw in the CDI is big enough to make plenty of contact.

zombie68 · Mar 3, 2013

The build has taken a turn. I was pretty disappointed with the Chinese motor so I am planning on mounting a small Japanese or domestic 4 stroke with centrifugal clutch in it's place. I need something that involves more riding and less tinkering

I am considering picking up one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine...cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-69733.html
I will have to go to Harbor Frieght and measure the dimensions of the engine to see if it will fit.

I am assuming that most, if not all, small engines rotate counter clockwise (looking at the drive/output shaft side). Is this correct?

Has anyone else gone this route? I will use the search feature to do some research, but any pointers or tips would be greatly appreciated.

I will try to post a few more poics as things progress, provided my camera cooperates....

CTripps · Mar 8, 2013

jeanpi said:
I'm new to this forum, i just finished building my second bike saturday, but my first 1 has me a bit confused, it only runs at full power with the choke up, i don't know if it's because i might have an air leak, or if im put in my break in gas from the other bike in the old 1, (16:1 mixture), i have a new ngk spark plug witch is gapped at .30 of an inch, i go to school for automotive technology, my teacher told me put some carb cleaner into the carberator while it's at idle and rev it a little, i did and got rid of allot of old carbon build up, but i saw right there where the carburator is connected to the intake i saw some carb cleaner coming out through just a bit not much, im a bit confused and want to fix the issue, i think with a new carburator i'll be good rather then rebuilding it because i already cleaned it the other day
P.S. i cant figure out how to start a thread/post

Hmm... switch to a break in mix of around 24:1, from reading around here the concensus is that 16:1 might be right for Chinese gasoline but it is too heavy for North American fuels. Also, you could try tightening up your plug gap to around .027", for reasons I'm not awake enough yet to explain, a few thou on the gap can make a significant difference.

Right up at the top of the page between the area heading and the list of topics you should find the 'New Thread' button.

jimmymc2286 · Mar 9, 2013

zombie68 said:
The build has taken a turn. I was pretty disappointed with the Chinese motor so I am planning on mounting a small Japanese or domestic 4 stroke with centrifugal clutch in it's place. I need something that involves more riding and less tinkering

I am considering picking up one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine...cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-69733.html
I will have to go to Harbor Frieght and measure the dimensions of the engine to see if it will fit.

I am assuming that most, if not all, small engines rotate counter clockwise (looking at the drive/output shaft side). Is this correct?

Has anyone else gone this route? I will use the search feature to do some research, but any pointers or tips would be greatly appreciated.

I will try to post a few more poics as things progress, provided my camera cooperates....

I have one of them on my vintage build. I built the frame and set the engine upright. I have 200 plus miles on it and love it. I put 53 miles on it today. It has enough power to handle my sidecar with no problem. I am now putting one on a Worksman newsboy. I did have to cut the down tube and reshape a new section so the engine will fit. It is well worth the effort.
Comparing the HF79cc with the 66cc china girl, no comparison. The HF has more power, torque, better fuel economy, and is just well cool.
It does turn Counter Clockwise.

ElGordo · Mar 15, 2013

I'm also building up a Mcargi Cruiser, (a Tahiti) with a 66cc chinese engine from Venice Motor Bikes. Finished installing my rear sprocket yesterday, and getting ready to mount engine, but the JNM super mount I bought has holes spaced about 1/4" narrower than the holes on the engine mounts

...

Zombie, it looks like you had one of these on your rear mount, but what about the front mount (on the downtube)?

Did you drill it? Should I slice through one of the hole on the JNM to make bolts fit???? Anyone?? Bueller?

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Micargi/Flying Horse Build (Bikeberry)

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