Dyno Von Franco cruiser- HF79 engine

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MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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Per motorbicycling's request, a couple more pics of mounting options, this time with wheels on to give some sense of level.

First is the engine with mounting oriented to the seat tube:

I like this one and thanks for the pics as was thinking about doing a similar mount.
You would have to use a small bicycle size chain ring.

This orientation would be the easiest to make a mount for the engine.
 

motorhedfred

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Jul 31, 2009
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Does anyone have any thoughts on a dipstick with the engine mounted this way ? The other dipstick location isn't drilled and tapped on the 99cc like on it's big brother 212.

MHF
 

atombikes

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Feb 14, 2010
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I like this one and thanks for the pics as was thinking about doing a similar mount.
You would have to use a small bicycle size chain ring.

This orientation would be the easiest to make a mount for the engine.
Yes, and I noticed that on the downtube side of the engine, there is already a boss that is drilled for the engine kill mount, so there's already a place to attach another mount for the downtube. I'll see if I have a pic of it.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a dipstick with the engine mounted this way ? The other dipstick location isn't drilled and tapped on the 99cc like on it's big brother 212.

MHF
Right, this is one of the downers I noticed. I'm not real keen on drilling and tapping that other oil boss location. I wonder if there is a way to attach a hose to the existing oil filler location and remote mount it in the upright position? Earlier in this thread young grease monkey suggested a clear tube as a way to determine the correct oil fill height, so I wonder if that idea can be extended to also create an oil fill tube?
 
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young grease monkey

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Sep 20, 2011
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Sure, if you can find hose barb big enough to fit the fill neck. It would take a long time to fill up using that little drain hole. If mounting to the seat tube, I would put a pipe inside to add support to the seat tube. I have cracked seat tubes before.
 

atombikes

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Feb 14, 2010
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Sure, if you can find hose barb big enough to fit the fill neck. It would take a long time to fill up using that little drain hole. If mounting to the seat tube, I would put a pipe inside to add support to the seat tube. I have cracked seat tubes before.
Not a bad idea about the seat tube support- measure and cut a longish seat post and hammer down in using another seat post..
 

atombikes

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Feb 14, 2010
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Since the front forks are bent, I had to get a new fork. Thought I might go with the Suzuki K10 fork, but after looking at the cost of all the additional little things needed to make it work, I decided to look for a simpler option. After a mornings worth of web searching, I found a used "Nirve Spring Action Threaded Cruiser Bike Fork (Chrome, 1 1/8-Inch Threaded)" for $17.00 shipped. Thinking I might get a set of the bikeworldusa 2.125 wheels and a front drum brake.

 

locell

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Jan 16, 2010
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Since the front forks are bent, I had to get a new fork. Thought I might go with the Suzuki K10 fork, but after looking at the cost of all the additional little things needed to make it work, I decided to look for a simpler option. After a mornings worth of web searching, I found a used "Nirve Spring Action Threaded Cruiser Bike Fork (Chrome, 1 1/8-Inch Threaded)" for $17.00 shipped. Thinking I might get a set of the bikeworldusa 2.125 wheels and a front drum brake.

Those type of forks look really cool on cruisers. Keep in mind though you really dont get full damping on those, its more of a change of angle.

I've ran both, the "springer" forks dont feel as solid to me as the rock-shock style at higher speed.

Plus, i like threadless headsets, and "springer" forks dont come like that (whem I looked I coulden't find any).

17.00 shipped is a smokin deal!
 
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atombikes

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
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Northern VA
Too bad you are not close, I have an extra set of dyno triple tree forks. Just so you know, look for 1 1/8 thread less That way you can use that nice stem
Thanks for the offer. I know that the Dyno fork was 1-1/8 threadless, as I removed it last week. I was concerned that the Dyno stem was kinda low; I've seen people say online that they have to place the handlebars at this awkard up-tilted angle to avoid striking their legs with the bars in a turn. I would like to avoid that so am going to go with a 1-1/8 quill and some sort of mountain bike bars (I think).

Those type of forks look really cool on cruisers. Keep in mind though you really dont get full damping on those, its more of a change of angle.

I've ran both, the "springer" forks dont feel as solid to me as the rock-shock style at higher speed.

Plus, i like threadless headsets, and "springer" forks dont come like that (whem I looked I coulden't find any).

17.00 shipped is a smokin deal!
I've never ridden a bike with these springers on it so should be interesting. I guess I figured for such a small amount of money I would try them to see if I like them. They definitely have that vintage bike feel I am going for.
 

culvercityclassic

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Sep 27, 2009
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Make sure you lock-tight all the bolts. I would find a dyno fork on eBay and run the bars I use, motorcycle street tracker bars... At the most 25.00 bucks and the security they won't break.