I Am Beat!! Someone...Anyone!

GoldenMotor.com

bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
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USA
So I have probably gotten the biggest leg workout of my life, but still nothing.

The Situation: Possible hydro/vapor lock (not great with terminology) because of gas line left on. Problem occurred day after I broke in the motor. Gas line was left on for an extended amount of time, no longer than 24 hrs, but close. Peddled, peddled, and peddled but nothing. Justin from Pirate Cycles thought it to be vapor lock due to line being left on; fuel leaks into motor, builds up on bottom= hard as **** to pedal. Feels like there is too much compression. I have spark, and when the plug is out and I have the rear wheel suspended to check for spark, it sounds great, just as soon as that plug goes back in and boom you can't pedal with the wheel suspended. I disconnected the carb, the muffler, and the plug and turned the bike upside down for 72 hrs, and from time to time, with the clutch engaged, rotated the pedals to crank the piston. Apparently liquid was supposed to come from the bottom of the motor if it were to be a hydro/vapor lock. But there didn't seem to be anything. So after 72 hrs, I flipped it back over.

I changed the fuel, unscrewed the fuel valve to release old fuel, as well as where the tubing connects to carb. I checked out the carb and in my eyes, it looked ok.

My question: What the **** is wrong. I will replace parts if need be, just not trying to replace the motor. It ran GREAT for 50 miles, then nothin. I'm not the type to give up and I hate wasting money so i'm really hoping someone might have an idea as to what the problem might be. ANY help is appreciated and I look forward to the day the General takes charge again! usflg
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
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up north now
If you took the plug out, and pedaled it, and even turned it upside down, then the gas should be gone. Maybe you blew the crank seals when you first tried to pedal it while it was (possibly) hydro-locked.
 

bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
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USA
well that does not sound like something easily fixable. Bikeguy Joe, am I in the boat of having blown or seized the motor? :-|| Or is there something that can be done? Also would that be the cause of all that compression?
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
The seals are easy to re-seat, just a PITA to get to.
Check out Norm's thread in his help section. He shows where they are, but ya gotta hunt for them.
Here's the one on the gear side, it is the black ring around the right side shaft sticking out of the case.http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...bicycle-engine-tear-down-totalteardown023.jpg

Here's the one behind the mag rotor, the black ring around the shaft on the left:http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...bicycle-engine-tear-down-totalteardown042.jpg

And here's a link to Norm's thread where he tears down an engine; where I got the pics from: http://motorbicycling.com/f39/bicycle-engine-tear-down-391.html
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,271
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113
Los Angeles, CA.
Lets start from where it's at right now...
Are you sure the engine actually turns over when you pedal? (The clutch isn't slipping???)
Are you sure it has spark? (Tell me how you checked.)
Does it have fuel to the carb?
After pedalling, is the spark plug wet???

Answer all these questions for me & we'll get you going!
 
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bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
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USA
Venice Motor Bikes,
I do not believe the engine is turning over, due to the amount of compression there is. I've pushed the bike with the clutch engaged to see if I could hear the piston moving up and down. I hear the putt, putt of it, but thats it. When peddling, I do not hear it want to start.

I checked for spark by removing the plug, and grounding it to the outside of the motor, bike was propped up on a car jack and someone held the bike for me while I peddled. Plenty of spark. Not the stock plug either. Actually a heavy duty motorcycle plug. After peddling there is a little oil around the threading of the plug, but none where the actual spark would be. But I believe that to be from oil stuck in the threading in the motor. One attempt we tried pouring a very small amount of 2 stroke oil in the plug hole to lube the inside thinking it might have been dry. didn't work.

Definately has fuel to the carb, but then again, not positive if the carb is working properly. I'm not too mechanically inclined, however I watch and learn quickly. I took a small engines class about 10 years ago, but do not remember much of anything from it. lol.

Another guy I spoke to said it could possibly be the timing in the crank. The engine is trying to fire when the piston is being forced down which might account for that extra compression. Just a thought.

Thanks for the responses!
 

GoFastBicycles

New Member
Jul 29, 2008
557
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0
West Point PA.
Remove the float bowl from bottom of carb check the main jet tube mine came loose and it wouldn't start.

Adam



Main Jet Tube Fall Out search that post.
 
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bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
11
0
0
USA
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm going to do the simple/obvious things first, before I start tearing apart the motor. I'll keep everyone updated!

Hopefully this will be me pretty soon. dance1
 
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
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Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
bcals0087,

From your description it sounds like the clutch is slipping...(this is typical sometimes after a short period of run time).

You've ridden it for 50 miles...so I am assuming you know what it sounds like when the engine is actually turning over? BRRRRRR....POP, POP, Vroom?

If the BRRRRRR....POP, POP, Vroom is gone the clutch is slipping. It's not compression!

Test:

Pull the clutch lever in, (disengage the clutch fully by hand...don't use the clutch "lock" button), pedal up to a really good speed...as fast as you can...dump the clutch quickly...release it fully without any hesitation...does the engine BRRRRRR....POP, POP, Vroom...If not the clutch is slipping.

Do this simple test and report back.

Jim
 

bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
11
0
0
USA
Ahhh, thats what I had been doing to try to get it started. I would peddle my a$$ off, squeeze the clutch lever, and pop it while flying. And I was not getting any "BRRRRRR....POP, POP, Vroom". If this is the case, how can I fix?
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,271
1,810
113
Los Angeles, CA.
Ahhh, thats what I had been doing to try to get it started. I would peddle my a$$ off, squeeze the clutch lever, and pop it while flying. And I was not getting any "BRRRRRR....POP, POP, Vroom". If this is the case, how can I fix?
Isn't that the very first question that I asked you?!?!?!?
"Are you sure the engine actually turns over when you pedal? (The clutch isn't slipping???)"
What did you think I was asking?????

Sometimes I really wonder why I even bother trying to help people????? :rolleyes:
 
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
12
0
Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
bcals0087,

Have a look at animation #2 on this thread.

http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-motorized-bicycle-clutch-assembly-8939.html

It is important that the clutch friction material pieces float in the gear, as shown, in order to achieve full clutch action.

Many times, from the factory, they are ill fitted; and to some extent pressed into the gear. This results in a half clutch...

After removing the clutch cover...you will see the main assembly. You should immediately look for signs of fuel contamination...If the inside appears very oily, the crankshaft seal may have popped out. The overall appereance, once removing the cover, should be relatively dry. There may be a bit of crud...which is normal...but it should be fairly dry. If you see, and gather what appears to be "buck shot" at the bottom of the case STOP...the gear assembly is toast and will need to be replaced.

The animation shows how easily the assembly can be "disassembled".

Remove the small screw that is nested into the star nut. Pull the clutch lever on the handle bars and remove the star nut. This will allow you to remove the pressure plate and thus expose the clutch.

Remove the friction material.

Use a file to form the friction pads so that they are loose in the gear...this will double your clutch friction surface area.

During reassembly...pull the clutch lever in and adjust the star nut so that the pressure plate is just off of the friction material. 1/64" clearance is fine! Replace the little star nut locking screw, and put the cover back on.

Jim
 
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
12
0
Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
Isn't that the very first question that I asked you?!?!?!?
"Are you sure the engine actually turns over when you pedal? (The clutch isn't slipping???)"
What did you think I was asking?????

Sometimes I really wonder why I even bother trying to help people????? :rolleyes:
Venice,

Your help and expertise will always be highly regarded...I've found that if you can be successful, getting your point across, about 25% of the time...you're doing really good...laff

Jim
 

corgi1

New Member
Aug 13, 2009
2,272
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KCMO
no jim thete is a thread 10 tooth gear spinning(i see it and cant find it next minute but its there,I saw it just 15 min.ago)
 

bcals0087

New Member
Mar 13, 2010
11
0
0
USA
Isn't that the very first question that I asked you?!?!?!?
"Are you sure the engine actually turns over when you pedal? (The clutch isn't slipping???)"
What did you think I was asking?????

Sometimes I really wonder why I even bother trying to help people????? :rolleyes:

Umm, did you not understand when I said I am not too knowledgable about this? The engine not turning over would not automatically make me assume that the clutch is slipping. I MISINTERPRETED what you said. Sorry that I did, but it's not necessary to make me look like a fool. Sometimes the way things are worded affect how something is interpreted. Everyone is guilty of that as a novice. Please show a little more patience next time.

Thanks jim for the info on how to go about doing that. Question, can I expect the assembly to be shot if I've tried, and tried to get the bike to start? I am not going to be able to work today but want to prepare myself for the worst when I do look at it.

Excuse me everyone if I'm the dumba$$, but we've all been one at one point.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
You are not dumb at all! There is a learning curve to everything, both for teachers and students. I am sorry that you feel that way now.
Considering what your actual problem appears to be, I also am sorry that I led you down the wrong path by showing you where the crankshaft seals are. Those are a heck of a lot more difficult to fix than a clutch adjustment.
FWIW, your clutch should not have been harmed by you trying to start it while it was slipping. The friction surfaces in these little engines are surprisingly durable.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,271
1,810
113
Los Angeles, CA.
Umm, did you not understand when I said I am not too knowledgable about this? The engine not turning over would not automatically make me assume that the clutch is slipping. I MISINTERPRETED what you said. Sorry that I did, but it's not necessary to make me look like a fool. Sometimes the way things are worded affect how something is interpreted. Everyone is guilty of that as a novice. Please show a little more patience next time.

Thanks jim for the info on how to go about doing that. Question, can I expect the assembly to be shot if I've tried, and tried to get the bike to start? I am not going to be able to work today but want to prepare myself for the worst when I do look at it.

Excuse me everyone if I'm the dumba$$, but we've all been one at one point.
I give up.... How else could I have spelled it out??????????? (seriously, HOW?) :rolleyes: