8mm head stud info!

Generally 120/140 in/lbs. Fred says 80 for fine threads 100 for coarse if my memory is correct. I use the 100in/lbs. I use no sealer of any kind and have had no issues. It took three heat/retorque cycles for everything to settle in. Its pretty much a must to plane the head and cylinder flat to avoid trouble.

I generally torque around 9 foot pounds with lock tight once. This only works when I have a properly mounted engine in my experiance.

Found that with the China two smoke that it wants. to be mounted riged with rigged exhaust support. That helped me with tuned pipes/mufflers on them that could self destruct at the rear of the bike as well.

Found especially in my travels a free floating none supported part wants to shake loose or gently destroy somthing. So I opted for UNI body support from all my mountable engine members.

My Dream has been to use a custom head with a frame bolt eylet off of it. Solid is good nothing falls apart and ground to power feel will and stay sharp. Dunno mebbe over kill lol still wanna. Folks are starting to unlock these these engines farily well latly. Prolly make another mutt?

So the best one I ever saw was a tuned pipe with homade flat stock / napa auto clamp combo.

Take flat stock anywhere the rod from old school auto clamp

'' for the one with the allthread ubolt rode touchs and otherwise would guogeor gore your frame tubing''

We got a oversized clamp and used generic flat stock on the whole clamp mating sufice!! Quick and cheap. Stought clamp quick and possible if you got access to some tools?

Or any of these. If imagination is there? http://www.jegs.com/c/Exhaust-Headers-Mufflers-Cat-Back-Kits_Exhaust-Clamps-Hangers/11527/10002/-1

So any pipe I use? I weld flat stock off the side of the pipe ''Exhaust pipe'' to meet up with said homade clamp. Good thick skined Motercross tuned pipes or even the stock pipe, have great metel skin to them if done right.

The rest of the motor had homade block alluminum custom machined for the frame all with ''very'' fine thin EPDM grade rubber membrane somtimes would lay ''very'' tin layer of silicone together as well clamped all down ''true even flush and perfectly riged.

Bareley Awake had one somewhere once. On a SBP mount. Cant find the picture where he posted it? Was a nice write up. Expained in better detail than mine.


Knuff of that said in a nutshell a hard piston banged cyclinder, a free mount hanging muffer ''just from the exhaust port'' equel alot of rattling. That stock muffer pipe is like a humming tuning fork. Only in my experance it never seamed to be tuning nothing


Just clamp stuff down reasonably and many folk have reported good luck. My first kit I had a free floating muffler seamed to me I was retorqing the head alot and finding it loose. Once I identified with the rattling, things went well for me and all my engines. In this regard.

i just tighten the stupid thing up evenly with a small ratchet, ride it once, check it for tightness again and forget about it.

never had a head loosen up after the first retightening.

I'm kind of with Bairdco here,
I was told, that a good spanner is the right length to torque it's appropriate nut/bolt.
Have never used a torque wrench on these motors, but always an appropriate pattern and torque wrench on multi cylinder motors.
I use my trusty 3/8 ratchet, to what I 'feel' is right. I havn't stripped/pulled an 8mm stud since I was a kid, and have not had head gasket issues on my bikes.
I do however put everything (everything) on a sheet of sandpaper and thick glass for a 'Lap' before assembly.
And recheck tension after a heat cycle at least twice.
The 6mm exhaust studs, throw them away, and helicoils aren't a bad idea.
But if your unfamiliar with alloy motors, a tension wrench, can save some hassle.

I have seen plenty of folks tighten head bolts on small engines with air ratchets/guns with no dire results. However these engines(CG) are made from some of the softest alloy(if indeed it is alloy) I have seen. Having and using an in/lb torque wrench for years is the only way I am comfortable pulling a head down on a CG. I understand the ability years of mechanical work gives to a person on tightening things. I have been wrenching for years. But to folks just starting, buy an in/lb wrench and be on the safe side, they don't cost that much.

Forgot to say..


This is why I use a Morini engine now.. 20 thos miles on it did not have to rebuild the dang thing when I got it new in the box ether. Have not used a torque wrench ever to check it. It simply works. Oh yeah expecting another 20 tho from this engine for sure easy peazy..

Gets kinda boring for some I guess? Just nothing to fix.. For the power it puts out. Pretty simple to say it has out lived about 15 china girls by now. China girls cant stay attached to a bike frame and pull this kinda torq...IME

After seeing 6 Chinas simply fall apart interally. From my freinds and me, I am not in any hurry to make another. Save for mebbe a guest bike. Not my daily rider.

Everybody is their own engineer. Everybody knows somthing. Know this a china girl is not ever gonna be this awsome..

So lets just recap for a second. No loose stuff ever anywhere on a bike with 20 tho plus miles on it. I take those odds well and love it! 6 foot tall 240 pounds on it's back. This is why I over build the way I do.

Loose anythjing on a machine to myself is unnerving to me.

The kit motors are not terrible. Just gotta know what your messing with. This is more than a hobby machine to me when I make one.

I don't use an air ratchet, But I do use a Hytachi 18V Impact wrench, but not on the head studs, or any of the other studs. I use it for disassembly mainly,

The Morini is a great engine but don't forget the horizontal Honda clone engines from 50-125cc(even bigger for the modded ones). They are about 1/2 the price and about as reliable as an engine gets. There are single speeds, three and four speeds. Manual and auto clutches. You do have to build the bike around them, but its not too difficult.

Yup.. these engines aren't exactly the best quality right out of the box but there are a few things we can do to make them run better and more reliable.. The whole torque issue is basically put in place by those of us who got a good idea of how tight things need to be to seal off the head but not yank the threads from the case stud bosses.

If I'm talking to any one of you in this conversation I could trust to say just bolt it down and snug it real good, but somebody I don't know if they got enough experience or not I'll give them a torque spec to go by so they can get it tight enough but not to the point they snap a stud or strip out the threads. I think this is the general consensus, not that there's any arguements on how far to torque, just to make sure a new guy with no experience on engines in general won't harm their engine by "just tightening things down". The head studs will torque just fine anywhere between 8 and 12 ft/lb, and probably a bit more, but as a safety net for the newbs who want to learn we need to give them a place to start.

I fully agree about rigid mounting Everything on these because it does reduce the vibes felt at the bars and seat, and it prevents the bike from self destruction. I did mine by welding mount tabs on my frame to bolt the engine directly to, but I also like GH's way of welding in a sleeve to bulk up the frame where those exhaust clamps would be used, and the beefier exhaust clamps are also far better than the thinner ones for a more rigid install. I know it wasn't too long ago when someone posted a frame that got sawed in half by an exhaust type clamp, but that's what the vibration can do.

I also bought a Morini engine and have plans to make a much more reliable and fast ride as soon as I decide what frame to put it in and it'll have all the tabs and brackets welded to the frame as well. The Morini engine I got is a much older one with the bulit in CVT so it doesn't make 10hp but there's a big bore kit for it along with a larger carb manifold and a few other goodies so once it's a 70cc engine it'll have around 7 to 8 hp stock. This one will take some more frame prep to make it fit but it'll be a fun ride when done and also far more reliable.

Eventually I'll get a newer type Morini or KTM because those engines are the best for power, compactness, and reliability.

The horizontal Hondas and their clones are also excellent 4 strokes that'll run forever too... they're a bit more bulky but they're not too hard to fit into most projects.

This is the Morini I got and I'm currently looking for the right frame for... I'm thinking about a larger cruiser frame kinda like those steel frame 29" cruisers Walmart sells, maybe just get one and beef up the frame, weld in the mount brackets etc and build up from there, but I'm also toying with the Schwinn Stingray idea too... either way it'll be a fun build... this is the engine I got and plan to build the bike around the engine... https://www.treatland.tv/category-s/463.htm ... The link is gone, but it's the Franco Morini dual variated kick start engine

The only engines like Morini is these http://www.denardisengines.com/50cc-ac-spareparts.html

Save yourself all hassel and problems with this clutch. Its the best on the market I think. http://www.tomarengineering.com/to/motorcycles/clutcheshtml/


Do imagine the water kewled one would be my pick? Dang complicated build to get all that in. That's my kind of challenge tho. Got one more year to get ahead and stuff will spring up I worked hard to build and save for.

The machines I would consider among my faves will be two sweetly built, stout full sus bikes. Down hill type suspesion bike with the big travel forks etc. Commercial grade components. These bikes truly rule these city street gutters. Smooth ride! Head hardy ever bobs man. Just mushes right through.

Then prolly three riged frame bikes? One for sure!!

Now I wanna side step for a second and say When making a streach somwhere with cheap ol' flate strape steel frome your local hardware store?? Well it's just fine inside a muffler clamp. When mating parts?

Good alloy strap steel the same grades used in the likes of race car building and other off road dittys on a MTB work better IMO for there weight ratio is a target.

Here is my experience I built this. Now let me critique the strap steel.

There was a video I made of it dunno if it plays anymore? Prolly gotta sign in? http://youtu.be/q4INNy4zEkk

This bike ran great! Ok make it clearer right? I faught that clutch tooth and nail. Got it working great. Then Nuvinchi rear wheel was the deal breaker in that one. Too much drag in that hub. it was getting hot enough to blister skin for touching it. About 3000 miles of beating the crap out of it tho.

Long story short the strap steel was too then and not wide enough for the motor mounts to use cheap steel. My welds never gave, the bike tubing intack just the strap. I used strap steel frome the local hardware store. I could never keep a muffler on this one as well lol. Strap steel would crack evry time..

I know one can retemper the surrounding steel at a weld with map gass if done right. Not sure somtimes where I wann use this stuff? So basically it can be done with thicker strap. Bike is gonna weigh too much.

This bike me at Six foot tall only a half dozen times swung it over the side of my pickup bed. Not doing it again. Me is getting too old to try a back .

Got a simpler version and it's lighter but arguably to heavy to be throwing over the side of a truck and I still do. Just peak at my profile? I'll update one of these days?

Hole Shot style one. The stock three stone shoe type are dreadfull.

I gotta hand it to ya on that build GH... That's an awesome build for a first Morini build... Even tho a few things failed, that's still a great build and I'm sure you learned a lot of what to do and what not to do for your next one.

I got an idea in my head about doing something similar to this one... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7eR0tcjWt4 but I'l buy a new DeNardis engine for it when I do... There's just something about long travel full suspension that makes these things fun... and look awesome.

That old 1980 Morini I got with the CVT is a cool engine but it'll look better on a utility trike made to look like an old Harley Servicar, or if I can get a hold of one of those larger type OCC Stingray frames and should still be able to hit at least 45 (not exactly recommended on these type trikes, but still capable), but be able to put along slowly and quietly at motorcycle rallys etc...

I've never been a fan of Home depot metal myself after spending over 25 years as an aircraft mechanic and structures tech, that stuff has no place on a bike... not even the pedal only variety... their aluminum is also of a very poor grade.
I get my steel directly from a steel supplier and it's all cold rolled steel and mild steel, not to mention the guy I'm renting my shop from left me a LOT of mild steel tubing left over from building race car frames and suspension parts... I could probably build 10 bike frames just with what he left me with and still not run out of tubing... This is just the stuff the landlord left for me... Most of it's square and rectangle tubing, but there's a lot of 1", 1 1/4", and 1 1/2" round in there as well as a LOT of end cuts in usable sizes. There's also a good amount of flat stock and sheet stock not in the picture as well.


I just need to get some tubing bendine toys and a notcher then I can make my own frames or modify an existing steel frame.

But first things first... build a few China dolls to sell to help fund the tooling and parts I need to build something really cool.

I agree on the Tomar clutches, those seem to be bulletproof compared to most the other brands.

Davezilla said:

I gotta hand it to ya on that build GH... That's an awesome build for a first Morini build... Even tho a few things failed, that's still a great build and I'm sure you learned a lot of what to do and what not to do for your next one.

I got an idea in my head about doing something similar to this one... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7eR0tcjWt4 but I'l buy a new DeNardis engine for it when I do... There's just something about long travel full suspension that makes these things fun... and look awesome.

That old 1980 Morini I got with the CVT is a cool engine but it'll look better on a utility trike made to look like an old Harley Servicar, or if I can get a hold of one of those larger type OCC Stingray frames and should still be able to hit at least 45 (not exactly recommended on these type trikes, but still capable), but be able to put along slowly and quietly at motorcycle rallys etc...

I've never been a fan of Home depot metal myself after spending over 25 years as an aircraft mechanic and structures tech, that stuff has no place on a bike... not even the pedal only variety... their aluminum is also of a very poor grate.

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Boy! Howdy! That is ia nice collection of steel!

The crap I learned on that build goes a long way indeed. I got stories. Like despite the chains perfectly aligned.. They wore out fast could get mebbe 1500 miles out of the rear most chain or count on walking home lol.

Say that machine you got listed there on you tube I bought one of those. Despite more stuff to learn it was the best money I ever spent on a bike. I am too big to work the rear sus off roading very rough. In the city that thing is the only bike I like right now. So cozy it's like getting a message.

The motor on it came from the latter machine I posted. That engine prolly has 24,000 miles on it right now. You loose track after a while. In the transplant it got the 21mm carby, custom intake etc. We are well over 10 hp by now. It makes that latter machine I posted look like a sloth!!

The Tomar clutch was the best thing that ever happened to it.

My BoXXer has exceeded 20 tho and works perfect.

Flyman said:

Are these engines pto side a standerd straight shaft so any of those clutchs
just bolt on?
Fly

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Of the things I do know? I have not messed with these particular motors. Would I? Sure you betcha! I would call the folks at Tomar tell them what model engine you have. There is very good odds they will have it!

I would wager any of their clutch are awesome.