morini hotrod

GoldenMotor.com

nidyanazo

New Member
May 25, 2010
316
1
0
SoCal
i haven't had the cover off to look yet, but the paper work says there are 3 arms with clickers on them, turn ccw to bring the clutch in at a lower rpm. with the gears in the nv all the low ranges are just about useless with the high rpm engagement, you have to be about half way through the ranges to get a little speed out of it. so it should work well with a lower rpm engagement since the gearing will still let it rap out before you up shift. the rear wheel cocked over on me today so i'm making toruqe arms to beef it up. it's just so radical engaging at that high of an rpm that it's hard on everything. once i get the clutch dialed down some i think it will be a lot of fun, as it is now theres no cruising, you just blast up to speed, then coast and then blast up to speed again, not realy fun riding like that.

That is the old style pre-2008 clutch. Pop the cover off and look. The 9.4 comes with the "grippa" clutch now. Unless you got an old one that had been sitting on a shelf for a couple years.


NEW


OLD
 

broHSI

New Member
Jul 27, 2009
89
0
0
USA, CA
That is the old style pre-2008 clutch. Pop the cover off and look. The 9.4 comes with the "grippa" clutch now. Unless you got an old one that had been sitting on a shelf for a couple years.
How do you adjust the new clutch?

What RPM does your 9.4 kick in at after you adjusted it?
 

camlifter

Active Member
May 4, 2009
1,033
16
36
acme labs marion ohio
just took the cover off, mine has the clutch like in the first pic. the vid in that link is dead. so how do you adjust it. take it apart and change bevel springs. know of any vids showing how it's done. looks like i'll have to order some bevel springs.
 

nidyanazo

New Member
May 25, 2010
316
1
0
SoCal
I saved it to my computer I shall upload it to youtube. It was a good informative video. Get back to you in about 15 minutes.... Power went out at the house here ya go!!!
You tube will not load it I will have to do something else. Says video too long. I'll put it on a torrent if I have too sorry guys figure it out later.
How long is it? I'm interested to see the video
 
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
12
0
Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
When I finished the bike for Gene, I rode it for about two miles to get a feel for the gearing and the overall performance.

The only thing I didn't like was the high R.P.M. required to fully engage the clutch. During normal riding, 0-30 m.p.h., the clutch was constantly slipping.

Craig brought over a tiny tach, and we checked the R.P.M. at about 1/2 clutch engagement...I was sitting on it and it was pulling pretty good...6,500 R.P.M. This was WAY too high...it needed to be about 3,000 R.P.M.

I went to a scooter shop and bought some slightly lighter springs. It made all the difference in the world to the rideability of the bike. You can now feel the clutch fully lock up at about 20 m.p.h.

As with all things "experimental" only time will tell, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that if the clutch isn't slipping...it isn't wearing.

I'm not sure why your low end is so soggy...I'm no lightweight and gene's bike pulls fine right off idle.

I think I would be looking at the tuned pipe for your low end power problems.

Jim
 

GeneFiorot

Member
Feb 12, 2009
170
1
18
Punta Gorda Florida
I am no expert, far from it, but when a Manufacturer goes to the trouble to provide exact dimensions for a pipe that will maximize power at the low end and throughout the power range and guys who buy the Motor ignore that favoring a pipe that resembles Keilbasa then take your pick. This one ?
or this one
 

jdmpunk

New Member
May 4, 2009
119
0
0
ohio
I am no expert, far from it, but when a Manufacturer goes to the trouble to provide exact dimensions for a pipe that will maximize power at the low end and throughout the power range and guys who buy the Motor ignore that favoring a pipe that resembles Keilbasa then take your pick. This one ?
or this one
ill admit the stinger is to long, that will only hurt the top end a bit, not something someone would notis by the seat of your pants dino. AS for the chamber and head pipe. there's more sience involved than just measurments. im willing to bet the volume of your pipe and reversion frequince is pretty close to the same. But at least you made some neat cones.
 

GeneFiorot

Member
Feb 12, 2009
170
1
18
Punta Gorda Florida
ill admit the stinger is to long, that will only hurt the top end a bit, not something someone would notis by the seat of your pants dino. AS for the chamber and head pipe. there's more sience involved than just measurments. im willing to bet the volume of your pipe and reversion frequince is pretty close to the same. But at least you made some neat cones.
Doesn't the science translate into measurements? What exactly are you saying? Do you not agree with the Morini Franco Specs? for the head pipe and cones?
 

camlifter

Active Member
May 4, 2009
1,033
16
36
acme labs marion ohio
i'm trying an experiment with the 3 shoe clutch, i'm replacing the shim bevel stacks with coil springs from a comet clutch, this should let it engage much sooner, the light switch engagement at 10,000 rpm just is not going to work for me on a motor bike. i need to be able to cruise at part throttle, i'll let everyone know how it works out.

i think what kyle ment about the pipe is that the morini numbers are more for a stright run of pipe, once you start bending it to fit up and around the bike the those numbers will change.
 

nidyanazo

New Member
May 25, 2010
316
1
0
SoCal
i'm trying an experiment with the 3 shoe clutch, i'm replacing the shim bevel stacks with coil springs from a comet clutch, this should let it engage much sooner, the light switch engagement at 10,000 rpm just is not going to work for me on a motor bike. i need to be able to cruise at part throttle, i'll let everyone know how it works out.

i think what kyle ment about the pipe is that the morini numbers are more for a stright run of pipe, once you start bending it to fit up and around the bike the those numbers will change.
It might be easier for ya to go with a spring style clutch cam, that way you can choose lighter springs, and change the length of the springs to adjust the engagement. There are a couple aftermarket clutch manufactures for this motor BTW.

And you should make a video- I want to see it light up the tire like you said!
 

jdmpunk

New Member
May 4, 2009
119
0
0
ohio
Doesn't the science translate into measurements? What exactly are you saying? Do you not agree with the Morini Franco Specs? for the head pipe and cones?
science allways leads to math at one point or another, and i do agree with morinis specs but to get the pipe where you want it you half to look at it with more than a strate line measurment. you have to concider volume ,bends and tapers. basicly i was cracking on your kubasas refrance. even though cam diden't completly make the pipe himself he did cut it up and put it back together the way he wanted it. blow the pic up and look at it .smooth as a babbys ass inside and out. plus it performs the way it should. hes still messzpting with the clutch but when he went for the first test ride he was on the seat and through grass at me 5 to 10 ft away. not bad for a kubasa on a heavy bike with some on on it.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Hey Kyle,
I don't know math from spath, but I do know that is one cool exhaust and build in general. I hope to see it in person this fall on my migration back to Maryland. You guys still planning a run this fall?
SB
 

jdmpunk

New Member
May 4, 2009
119
0
0
ohio
Hey Kyle,
I don't know math from spath, but I do know that is one cool exhaust and build in general. I hope to see it in person this fall on my migration back to Maryland. You guys still planning a run this fall?
SB
hay silverbare good to hear from you. if john doesent brake it by then ill show you how to drift that back tire through the corners.
 

Prof Fate

New Member
Aug 19, 2008
109
0
0
St.Louis (Brentwood), MO
Camlifter, I am planning on running a 5.8 Morini through a NuVinci on my Cadillac Cruiser. Thanks to your posts I now know I need to set the clutch to engage at low rpm and apply power gingerly as not to abuse the hub too much.



I was checking out your pictures on your Morini Hotrod build and I’ve got a few questions about the way you had the jack shaft set up. It looks like you didn’t use the vertical tensioning bolt that mounts below the engine on the SBP shift kit. Isn’t that needed to account for the chain stretching over time? Or is it simple enough to just move the whole mounting system up when it's needed? Was the engine mounted directly to the SBP bracket or were the two mounted independently?
In the picture above it looks like you mounted a chain tensioning wheel between the engine and the sprocket on the shift kit, was that necessary because of the way you positioned the engine in the frame? Or is it just a good idea with this set up? And while I’m asking, were you able to get by without having to bend the pedal cranks arms?
About your pipe…I’m sure the model/type is listed here somewhere. But since I am already asking about other things here…where’d you get it and did it require a lot of modifications? Thanks
 
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camlifter

Active Member
May 4, 2009
1,033
16
36
acme labs marion ohio
i have the spb bracket u-bolted and welded to the seat post so it wouldn't move, the idler wheel is to adjust the chain, it may be over kill but i didn't want the jack shaft mount to have any chance of moving. my lower rear motor mount is also attached to the spb J/S bracket.
don't go to low on the clutch as the higher engagment allows for slip letting power come through less violently. check out the thread on the morini clutch in this section. when i had mine engaging low it was breaking things from the power hittng all at once.
my pipe is made from a KX65 mx bike pipe. some modification is needed, not to hard though if you can weld or have someone do it for you.
i no longer have the nuvinci hub on this bike, the 9.4 was just to much for it, it now has a fixed sprocket on the rear wheel.
 
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Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
don't go to low on the clutch as the higher engagment allows for slip letting power come through less violently. check out the thread on the morini clutch in this section. when i had mine engaging low it was breaking things from the power hittng all at once.
How much of this was done with the coil springs? I did one of my best extreme hill climbs with my set of those new. For me in their 7th hour of extreme testing, ''Heat soak'' on the motor broke those springs broke down ''heat degradation'' the bike was a dog after that until I replaced them.



I put the bevel washer springs back in. No matter how I stacked them for me I could not complement my N.V. hub. I seasoned a set of those in a few hours ''extreme testing'' and the N.V. relationship soon became the best I was ever going to get it. ''Heat degradation '' Important note now married to the absolute need of gears here for me. The bike would not even move with out them for me other wise. I cannot duplicate chain breaking mad h.p. at off idle......My 5.8 h.p. motor only seams to be able to make this kind of power in the upper rpm range.

Now I have a bike that I have to physically hold back just hitting the kick start or idling at a light.
 
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