I've installed a Ghost Racer 7g kit on a 60s JC Higgins Flightliner, and noticed the entire engine, and tranny flex toward the rear tire when the drive chain is under load. Has anyone else noticed this? Any ideas?
Ghost Racer mounting plate
- Thread starter Mr Natural
- Start date
the motor mount that came in the kit, broke on the third ride for me. so I had to manufacture one out of steel plate and a pipe cut in half lengthwise. the cheap chinese mount that comes in the kit doesn't really have good radius cutouts for matching frame diameters anyway, and only soft bolts to hold it together, is probably the reason for All the flexing going on there. the thing that broke on mine was the rear cast iron part, it snapped in half on one side of the raised center molded, supposedly for support, ridge underneath it. there are better mounts out there, be safe.
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My final solution was to get 3/4" solid square steel stock from a welding supply guy. I got the motor where it needs to be. The measured rough cut and tried as needed, to include angles that accommodate the frame angles. Then applied a crutch foot to that and wedged it under the motor mount down to the lower frame. Then secured it with hose clamps. This is the fifth thing I tried. So far so good.
The whole 7G package leaves much to be desired.
The base is a joke, the 4G bases are much and I had some spares for the couple of 7G builds I did, but nothing beats the SBP jackshaft base.
3-point adjustable mount with 3 360 degree tube holding muffler clamps make it part of the bike.
This is a muffler clamp in case you don't know what they are.
You can get them for ~$1.50 at most any auto parts store, just get the sizes that fit your tubes and you have a good flat spot with studs to mount a flat plate to.
You are direct drive but here are some close-ups of how the plate is secured jackshaft or not.
With a 2 point back mount you take out any lateral twist movement, the bottom plate bolts to that, and then you just bent the front mount plate plate to fit the downtube angle.
Hope that helps.
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How well do those pays mount to v frame bikes. The biggest problem it's the mounts are all made to fit a cruise. Because of that the lack the proper surface area to good correctly. That one pictures looks like it may not suffer that issue.
I thought about moving to a cruise frame but I like the riding stance of my old mtb. That and the mtb it's more stable feeling to ride standing up... when your but gets sore during long rides.
I thought about moving to a cruise frame but I like the riding stance of my old mtb. That and the mtb it's more stable feeling to ride standing up... when your but gets sore during long rides.
This system has no curved cut-out's on the plate or mounts, just a place to bolt to what you attached to seat post and whatever angle you want in front.
@ KCvale-- How does that rear clamp hold on to the mount plate? are there tabs under it?
I can see the front bolts go through the part that you bend up to fit the angle, but the rear doesn't show how it attaches to the plate.
I can see the front bolts go through the part that you bend up to fit the angle, but the rear doesn't show how it attaches to the plate.
The is a bolt on each of the plate rear, they are painted black so hard to see, but between the bottom clamp and the chain.
A pivot point so the base can remain level regardless of seat angle.
Ok, I see the two muffler clamps hold the jackshaft unit to the seat post, and the motormount plate bolts to that. So, in fact you must use the jackshaft unit clamped to the seatpost. Or make a piece to go onto the lower clamp so it will bolt to the motormount plate. Where does a person aquire one of those setups(kit)?
That is the base provided with the sickbikeparts 4-stroke kit and I don't see them for sale separately, but you can e-mail Paul (Pablo) and see if he'll sell you just a base and clamps.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/contact_us.php?osCsid=9nl6qj1k7jn603h79rqn4dgjj3
Get your exact seat post and downtube diameters first so you get the right sized clamps.
If you don't have a caliper, wrap a thin piece of paper around it and mark it, lay it out and measure it, then divide that circumference by PI /3.1415 for the diameter.
I should have my own design bases and some new transfer case options available sometime this summer.
