wont start
- Thread starter chaz1806
- Start date
What do you mean by rotor off the key? But ya got new cdi coomin in mail but i still have a spark so who knos plus i kno my muffler is fine and my head is perfectly sealed no compression problems and no air leaks it turns over fine i think its fuel and def timing like u said but seems my fuel is off and i cleaned my carb so ya let me try reversing wires but i did nuttin qrong i shut it off fine last time i had it running fine but after that it back fired almoat started bogged then stalled and now nothing but
Not a common problem but you might want to check the woodruff key for the magneto rotor (magnet). Make sure the keyways in the crankshaft and the rotor line up.
Does compression seem normal? Any evidence that a head gasket is leaking badly?
We're assuming when you pedal and release the clutch that the engine is turning just not starting?
Tom
Does compression seem normal? Any evidence that a head gasket is leaking badly?
We're assuming when you pedal and release the clutch that the engine is turning just not starting?
Tom
Yes got compression magneto looks fine no head leak so dunno is my spark not strong enough maybe dunno but engine compresses and throttle wit gas souns good just fuel problem but looks like its gettin fuel so ima try new spark plug and coil and go ftom there
Well it was coil and spark plug so just member if u have spark doesnt mean its enough to turn over bike but now i cant get my strain and rim to spin straight its a lil off and since i took that brake bar off the bearing on rim is wobbly i give up always something
Hard to understand what you're saying but if you had a coaster brake and you removed the arm then your bearings won't hold adjustment. They can loosen or tighten up with the coaster brake arm removed. That's probably why your rear wheel wobbles.
Tom
Lots of information here on that subject. > http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partne...tab=0&gsc.q=coaster brake/sprocket&gsc.page=1
You'll need to 'Z' bend the brake arm to clear the sprocket bolt heads and possibly enlarge the center hole in the sprocket to clear the bearing dust cover.
Tom
hi
well after my stock cdi died and getting another i got 20 miles it bogged down and backfired again i got some good riding on this new cdi but me thinking it went i bought another. if i keep tryin it backfires starts for a sec and then dies so bought another cdi well got it today no difference so now im thinking only thing left is my mag. see my stock cdi died doing that backfire got a new got a new cdi bike ran great did it again but cdi isn't the issue this time only thing left is mag rite?
all my parts looks brand new still even my mag plus i got compresstion and all so my question is a good lookin mag don't mean nuttin and why did it go bad
its not wet or any other reason just cheap Chinese im guessing u tell me?
well after my stock cdi died and getting another i got 20 miles it bogged down and backfired again i got some good riding on this new cdi but me thinking it went i bought another. if i keep tryin it backfires starts for a sec and then dies so bought another cdi well got it today no difference so now im thinking only thing left is my mag. see my stock cdi died doing that backfire got a new got a new cdi bike ran great did it again but cdi isn't the issue this time only thing left is mag rite?
all my parts looks brand new still even my mag plus i got compresstion and all so my question is a good lookin mag don't mean nuttin and why did it go bad
its not wet or any other reason just cheap Chinese im guessing u tell me?
It's ALWAYS the coil. While I have heard of CDI's failing, I've never seen one go bad in all my years of working on these engines.
When the coil goes, it often continues to work off and on for weeks, causing all kinds of trouble figuring out what's bad.
When you have electrical issues, replace the coil FIRST.
When the coil goes, it often continues to work off and on for weeks, causing all kinds of trouble figuring out what's bad.
When you have electrical issues, replace the coil FIRST.
I built my CDI tester 'cause I see a LOT of bad ones. Some are simple 'no spark', others are 'degraded component/bad timing' issues. Iffy, are the ones that seem to require much greater speed from the motor to make a really good spark - these sometimes make single speed cruisers harder to start.
Crassius, you should do a thread on building a CDI/mag tester. Instead of relying on ohm readings it would be beneficial to see a mag, CDI and plug work in a real world condition.
If I recall Norm built one years ago but I can't seem to find that old thread. Care to elaborate on your tester?
Tom
EDIT: Found it> http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=14962
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