I live in masontown pa, I built my bike a week ago, as of right now I have a ngk spark plug, and everything else is stock, china girl, I'm 240-260, mounted on cruzer, front motor mount broke today snapped flush, started back firing 3 days ago, when I first start it, when I realized the motor mount broke I felt the bottom of the motor I had oil there? Maybe blew a seal? I'm not that mechanical, I was proud I built it from ground up and it ran this long ever since first try! But now I'm lost frustrated, everyday something happened ,chain broke 2 times, original tire bead punchiered inner tube 4 different places and times, sliding on cold start, ate the original brakes, and 13 hours of building bike and complete motor kit by my self completely, o and selective tool set, please help
china girl crisis
- Thread starter aarcher30
- Start date
You SHOULD be proud; but keep in mind you'll need patience...for the kit, the bike, and yourself. If the stud is sheared flush with the engine, you'll HAVE TO remove the engine and either dremel a slot into the sheared stud-tail and unscrew it with a screwdriver (I've done this twice), or invest in a 6mm extractor (done this once). If all else fails, you can drill-out the stud debris and helicoil it (done this once before for cylinder-stud). As for everything else you'd mentioned: TMI; get your studs fixed first, and we'll discuss backfiring and perceived oil-leaks later.
back tire skidding means you are not letting clutch out gently enough
broken chains means you are not keeping engine tight in frame or not adjusting tensioner properly to feed chain as straight as possible onto rear sprocket
I never start a bike before I grab motor and make sure it can't be pulled left/right in frame.
broken chains means you are not keeping engine tight in frame or not adjusting tensioner properly to feed chain as straight as possible onto rear sprocket
I never start a bike before I grab motor and make sure it can't be pulled left/right in frame.
My chain tensioner is stripped, and my pedal gears on back fell off pretty much, got the motor mounted again.
What do you mean by "stripped"? The plastic tensioner-pulley should wear to conform to the chain. In my experience, although the pulleys seem cheap, they last forever; there shouldn't be so much pressure on them that they crack or fragment. My bike's cheap, and the extra stresses our kits impose on them have resulted in my bike's hardware disintegrating. I have no pedal-chain now (the pedal sprocket's all bent up, and the crank's bearings are shot). Since I keep putting off fixing that, I ended up removing the rear cassette and all gear hardware. The bike had front disk-brakes and rear V-brakes. The disk-brake caliper was a POS, so I bagged it. The rear V-brake had cheapo pads, so I got a box full of better ones. You _WILL_ go through sets of V-brake pads quickly, but they're very effective and reliable if you know how to maintain them. They DO impose a great deal of stress on rims so be sure to inspect them regularly. If the pads are installed and adjusted regularly, the wear on the rims will be negligible. You DO NOT want a rim bursting on you. You should also consider a decent rear wheel bearing. I have gone through enough heartache in the past two years with crappy standard equipment to advise you that a decent rear-bearing will make for a happy ride. Not only does it increase the bike's efficiency and speed, it'll last you for a long time. Axles are another weak-point. I got to a point where I was replacing rear-axles at about one-a-month. I ended up spending a little on a hollow axle and a quick-release tong. Not only are hollow axles stronger and less suseptible to bending, the quick-release makes routine maintenance much less tedious. I tend to go though about 5 spokes a month too the one's under the rag-joint of course), so the combination of quick-release, no-chain, no cassette makes this task much smoother. Now, if only there was a quick-release solution for the rear-sprocket, I'd be ecstatic.
