Help Please!!

GoldenMotor.com

jonvb69

New Member
Jul 27, 2011
7
0
0
Kalamazoo, MI
Ok... So... My bike just decided to quit working for me. It was running fine and then just took a ****. I checked my spark plug and was getting spark. Removed the Kill Switch thinking maybe it was shorting things out and I've heard that you can solve some problems doing this. I removed Kill Switch it fired up I rode it for a bit and then turned it off by popping the clutch. I then attempted to get on the bike and ride home, it wouldnt fire up. I kept pedaling and throttling, it was attempting to fire up, but then got nothing at all. The motor doesnt even sound like its trying to fire up. I went to the dealer where I got it he told me it sounded like my magneto shorted out. He also had said to ground the wire to the frame of the bike and remove the Kill Switch. I'm not to sure if I'm doing the grounding correct. I replaced the the magneto and now it does the same thing but I have no spark from my spark plug, so I'm thinking its something to do with my wiring. The wiring is so simple though black to black and blue to blue with white taped off. The grounding of the wire is what is probably throwing me off. I had a spot on my bike right on the center bottom of the frame where a water bottle holder thing went but I removed it to install my engine. I took the black wire from CDI twisted it around the ground coming from engine then screwed it in to the screw where water bottle holder used to be. I have nothing from spark plug. Bad CDI then? Advice very much needed please. Is it possible that i put magneto on wrong? :-||
 

jonvb69

New Member
Jul 27, 2011
7
0
0
Kalamazoo, MI
yeah that would be my next step is to replace that bad boy... im sure that the CDI probably got fried as well : / other then that i have no idea what it could be. I'll give it a whirl. These bikes are just some frustrating stuff sometimes I'll tell you what.
 

Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
5
0
Calera, Alabama
Do not use the frame as a ground. The BLACK wire is grounded at the coil. If you don't have a tester of some sort, here is one you can make yer cheaply, it will let you know if the coil is firing. Remove the white wire, and re-solder the BLUE wire. Don't hook up the kill switch till you get it running. Have you replaced the High Voltage plug lead?



I made this one from a LED.... Bought LED at Auto Shack.


Also check this album.
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae309/Ron-Becker/Magnetto/
 
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BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
21
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Maine
Gonna hafta beg to differ on this 'un Al - as the engine case itself is a "ground" and it is in direct contact to the conductive material the frame is made out of, it's already a ground & ya might as well avail yourself of it. Attaching the ground wire to the frame only insures better contact.

All of my builds use the chassis as a ground, including my aluminum Schwinn w/one of Norm's white wire lighting kits - which I've installed w/only a positive lead going to them, completing the circuit by attaching the negative to the frame (as an example of harness simplification/reduction possible with chassis grounding).

Interestingly, I've never suffered an electrical issue... (ssh Murphy's listening) well, other'n my plug wire falling out lol - I s'pose that doesn't really count tho ;)
 
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Al.Fisherman

New Member
Sep 9, 2009
1,966
5
0
Calera, Alabama
Yes, your way can work without a doubt. I have worked on many trailers (boat, RV. ATV, and utility). I've only had problems from those that used the trailer as a ground, never with those wired directly to the vehicle (other then blowing a fuse). The best grounding will be one that is connected to the source. Then there are builders that insulate the engine from the frame (rubber/tape/cut up tubes, etc), and paint can cause a insulator effect. Wiring through the frame can work, wired to the source will work,