Cheap B@stard Dyno Build- HF79
- Thread starter atombikes
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Ouch! I've done that with some really expensive paint before and I was p-o-ed!
It usually happens from putting lacquer over enamel. Dissimilar brands will do it too some times. The clear has a lot of solvent to make it run smooth, but that means you can't apply it too thick. I'm so paranoid, I spray like 5 increasingly wet coats and then wetsand to get the shine because of the danger to the base coat. I almost ruined a helmet paint job once when the fleck started to lift in the basecoat after spraying clear a lil wet, fortunately it sat back down. I have so much respect for painters, it's truly an art to get it right on a consistent basis.
It usually happens from putting lacquer over enamel. Dissimilar brands will do it too some times. The clear has a lot of solvent to make it run smooth, but that means you can't apply it too thick. I'm so paranoid, I spray like 5 increasingly wet coats and then wetsand to get the shine because of the danger to the base coat. I almost ruined a helmet paint job once when the fleck started to lift in the basecoat after spraying clear a lil wet, fortunately it sat back down. I have so much respect for painters, it's truly an art to get it right on a consistent basis.
yea but its amazing how wrong maaco can get it sometimes and them still be in business i have seen some real bad budget paint jobs come out of them and a few nice ones they get to be hit or miss because of there size
Got a proper engine mount. This one is a Grubee from Bicycle-engines.com and it is a perfect fit for my frame. Miles better than the other mount. I'm sure that other 4 stroke mount works for some frames, not so much the Dyno frame.
Sorry for the crappy cell pics, the mount just arrived in the mail.
Sorry for the crappy cell pics, the mount just arrived in the mail.
Wow, it's been quite a while since I have worked on this project!
One of the main hurdles has been building the wheelset. If you read the earlier posts, my plan is to lace in a front drum hub and a rear Puch moped hub. The moped hub gives the advantage of a built-in drum brake, and also already has sprockets on both sides.
Anyway, I struggled over the winter trying to use the existing 12G spokes that came with the heavy duty wheelset to lace in these hubs. I had seen assurances from other builders saying it should be possible, but I just couldn't get it to work; I tried both 3 cross and 4 cross lacing.
So, I bit the bullet and ordered some spokes that are 10" long. These are shorter than the existing 12G spokes that came with the wheelset.
Finally, I was able to get these laced. The spokes are STILL too long for a 3 cross; they are protruding past the nipples too much inside the rim. I think I will get some stainless washers to put under the nipples and then file off any spoke excess and call it a day.
Now I can concentrate on the chainline.
I've got around $150 in this wheelset so far.
One of the main hurdles has been building the wheelset. If you read the earlier posts, my plan is to lace in a front drum hub and a rear Puch moped hub. The moped hub gives the advantage of a built-in drum brake, and also already has sprockets on both sides.
Anyway, I struggled over the winter trying to use the existing 12G spokes that came with the heavy duty wheelset to lace in these hubs. I had seen assurances from other builders saying it should be possible, but I just couldn't get it to work; I tried both 3 cross and 4 cross lacing.
So, I bit the bullet and ordered some spokes that are 10" long. These are shorter than the existing 12G spokes that came with the wheelset.
Finally, I was able to get these laced. The spokes are STILL too long for a 3 cross; they are protruding past the nipples too much inside the rim. I think I will get some stainless washers to put under the nipples and then file off any spoke excess and call it a day.
Now I can concentrate on the chainline.
I've got around $150 in this wheelset so far.
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A little more progress- I mounted the tires to check clearances. Everything looks good!
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One more glamour shot, hopefully a little clearer. At this point it's all just propped up, nothing is really bolted up properly.
Awesome! I bookmarked this thread a few days ago,and had just logged in to message you wondering about the progress of your bike.
Good to see youre still building it, its looking pretty nice!
Good to see youre still building it, its looking pretty nice!
The bike is looking good, ya know I am a Dyno fan. Really dig the wheels...
Don’t be disappointed with the lack of power in that motor or the teeth loosening chatter from that clutch….
Don’t be disappointed with the lack of power in that motor or the teeth loosening chatter from that clutch….
Thanks, these things are a challenge but it's fun.
Yup, I know you're a big Dyno fan. I lifted this down off my build table (Workmate...) to put the wheels on it. It was only then did I realize how much this thing is going to weigh! I know the clutch is gonna make some noise, but will the 79cc Greyhound really be that underpowered?The bike is looking good, ya know I am a Dyno fan. Really dig the wheels...
Don’t be disappointed with the lack of power in that motor or the teeth loosening chatter from that clutch….
I think you just built a small block bike so figured you would know.
Also, about the clutch, I always thought that these small block bikes didn't have enough power to push a torque converter?
Ya that motor is a little weak in the balls department but then again so is the 99cc. I have a new motor that I am building to see what it can do, ported head, milled head and some stiff valve springs. New cam profile too.
It won't work with a cvt. jackshaft setup but you need to upgrade the clutch to resolve the chatter. Pic included.
It won't work with a cvt. jackshaft setup but you need to upgrade the clutch to resolve the chatter. Pic included.
Attachments
I knew that was coming. It's called "Alligatoring" in the body shop world.
I hate Rustolum. To long to dry and alligator's when recoated after dry.
Looking good. RobOne more glamour shot, hopefully a little clearer. At this point it's all just propped up, nothing is really bolted up properly.
Thanks for the compliments.
Back to the wheels, specifically the rear wheel. The last time I worked on the bike, I took my newly-laced rear wheel and attempted to attach the engine side sprocket. For the unknowing, these Puch moped hubs have a freewheel on the bicycle side and a larger sprocket that is bolted directly to the hub on the engine side.
When I went to bolt up the sprocket, I found that the spokes were laced in a manner that prevented the bolts from fitting. Basically, the "leading" and the "trailing" spoke positions were reversed. Sooooo....4 friggin hrs later, I have a wheel that is built, with the sprocket and drum brake attached. OMG, I have done some tedious stuff, and this is near the top of the pile.
And even with a #8 washers under each nipple, there are still excess threads protruding. So I guess I will have to grind them flush.
Back to the wheels, specifically the rear wheel. The last time I worked on the bike, I took my newly-laced rear wheel and attempted to attach the engine side sprocket. For the unknowing, these Puch moped hubs have a freewheel on the bicycle side and a larger sprocket that is bolted directly to the hub on the engine side.
When I went to bolt up the sprocket, I found that the spokes were laced in a manner that prevented the bolts from fitting. Basically, the "leading" and the "trailing" spoke positions were reversed. Sooooo....4 friggin hrs later, I have a wheel that is built, with the sprocket and drum brake attached. OMG, I have done some tedious stuff, and this is near the top of the pile.
And even with a #8 washers under each nipple, there are still excess threads protruding. So I guess I will have to grind them flush.
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Hi atom bikes
following your build as i have ccc and scotto ----sure makes a clean machine
i have scrounged up the parts and may proceed in the not too distant future
to see what i can do big preddy --dyno puch or flandria hubs or ???
thanks for asking all the right questions and posting all the pertinent info
ride safe
following your build as i have ccc and scotto ----sure makes a clean machine
i have scrounged up the parts and may proceed in the not too distant future
to see what i can do big preddy --dyno puch or flandria hubs or ???
thanks for asking all the right questions and posting all the pertinent info
ride safe
Best way I've found to deal with excess spoke length is to assemble the wheel, mark the length needed and then remove each spoke to cut it to length. I use an old nipple screwed on each spoke BEFORE grinding or cutting it to self-clean the threads as you remove the nipple afterwards.
Grinding off excess length while the spokes are assembled leaves lots of sharp edges and is hard to do without nicking the rim or grinding off the screwdriver slot in the nipples.
It IS a lot of work and very tedious cutting each spoke, but patching flats caused by sharp edged spoke tips is worse.
Grinding off excess length while the spokes are assembled leaves lots of sharp edges and is hard to do without nicking the rim or grinding off the screwdriver slot in the nipples.
It IS a lot of work and very tedious cutting each spoke, but patching flats caused by sharp edged spoke tips is worse.
