Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
- Thread starter MEASURE TWICE
- Start date
Oil is not the issue with the foam filter, it is the gas from the carb going toward the filter if I go by the spec and have late intake valve closure. It is approximately half way up the pistons upward travel during the power stroke before complete intake valve closure.
This is the video, not sure if you see what it looks like.
http://vimeo.com/103665228?email_id...e_complete-finished-20120100&utm_source=email
Anyway I just had to put it on hold for a while, but thanks for your comments.
Actually I was wondering about the way the spring clip thing with the float valve is so not held in place so securely. I was thinking if it is possible that slight shifting of the spring in the clip changes the amount of pressure on the float valve when it is closed or open. If that is the case I could very well be bending the spring back and forth til it work hardens and breaks. I have not seen the spring fallen out of place, but the angle the spring is while still holding on to the clip can be not exactly straight across. That minute amount may be an issue.
Although the Briggs clone carb is without adjustments at least it's float if never leaked or leaked once and I adjusted it was fine and forgotten about.
This is the video, not sure if you see what it looks like.
http://vimeo.com/103665228?email_id...e_complete-finished-20120100&utm_source=email
Anyway I just had to put it on hold for a while, but thanks for your comments.
Actually I was wondering about the way the spring clip thing with the float valve is so not held in place so securely. I was thinking if it is possible that slight shifting of the spring in the clip changes the amount of pressure on the float valve when it is closed or open. If that is the case I could very well be bending the spring back and forth til it work hardens and breaks. I have not seen the spring fallen out of place, but the angle the spring is while still holding on to the clip can be not exactly straight across. That minute amount may be an issue.
Although the Briggs clone carb is without adjustments at least it's float if never leaked or leaked once and I adjusted it was fine and forgotten about.
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Engine runs good. I put in new points and condenser for a hotter spark. I tricky shimmed the holder for the condenser/one half the points. It was not lined up right with the movable point. I used soda can cut up and got it right on.
So the valves adjusted, points for spark adjusted, and would you know it ran for a while with the old carb, but then stopped altogether. The flywheel key was half squished. I noticed a scrape on it earlier and bone head did not act on preventive maintenance. It also may had also been the main problem after first trying to get the valves adjusted and the kick back did adversely dent the flywheel key which even though still was running compounded problems.
Multiple problems... yep! I used the new intake valve and adjusted both intake and exhaust. New electrical and used sand paper and wire brush and external start tooth washers. Goop and potted wires and connections.
Purrs nice and idles slow no stalling.
The damn carb I got that had the leak at first I don't know if I'll keep even though I adjusted the float valve and got it to stop leaking. I'll try it out too, but if it runs OK, I guess I fixed the new part and maybe for 18 bucks just keep it as a spare.
If the guy on Ebay says I have to pay return shipping for if it starts leaking again or something else, I guess I can cut my losses. I asked for a rebuild kit for the washers and stuff, but maybe the guy will just allow full return of all costs. It is not that I really need the carb now, don't like that I spend 2 bucks on gaskets for a new item that leaks from the get go. If it works just a little better than the Briggs no adjustment carb, then maybe it is worth keeping.
I'll see about getting a video, actually mostly just sound, as it was at night and no tri-pod.
MT
So the valves adjusted, points for spark adjusted, and would you know it ran for a while with the old carb, but then stopped altogether. The flywheel key was half squished. I noticed a scrape on it earlier and bone head did not act on preventive maintenance. It also may had also been the main problem after first trying to get the valves adjusted and the kick back did adversely dent the flywheel key which even though still was running compounded problems.
Multiple problems... yep! I used the new intake valve and adjusted both intake and exhaust. New electrical and used sand paper and wire brush and external start tooth washers. Goop and potted wires and connections.
Purrs nice and idles slow no stalling.
The damn carb I got that had the leak at first I don't know if I'll keep even though I adjusted the float valve and got it to stop leaking. I'll try it out too, but if it runs OK, I guess I fixed the new part and maybe for 18 bucks just keep it as a spare.
If the guy on Ebay says I have to pay return shipping for if it starts leaking again or something else, I guess I can cut my losses. I asked for a rebuild kit for the washers and stuff, but maybe the guy will just allow full return of all costs. It is not that I really need the carb now, don't like that I spend 2 bucks on gaskets for a new item that leaks from the get go. If it works just a little better than the Briggs no adjustment carb, then maybe it is worth keeping.
I'll see about getting a video, actually mostly just sound, as it was at night and no tri-pod.
MT
Pics to go with above post. Note the indent dot on the recoil pawl clutch that is to be on top most position of 360 degrees when assembled to the recoil. I position it that way when the engine is on the same tilt as when mounted on the frame engine platform since it is tilted backward about 15 degrees.
The carb adapter I made is then in the level postion seen attached to the elbow bend manifold.
External star tooth washer and gooped for wet weather protection, and the point cover as always also gooped with high temp copper rtv.
Two thicknesses for fine sand paper I used to set the gap at about 0.018 inch the flywheel (which is under it) to the magneto lamination poles.
All the solid wire from the magneto soldered to stranded high temp flexible wire and gooped so less chance of breaking. I fixed a break of the wire where it was a bear to fix many years ago. I melted the epoxy to get a nub to solder to and gooped it over and heat shrinked strain reliefed. It has not had any issues.
The soda can shim is under neath and on both sides of the condenser and its mount so the points line up real good and gapped 0.020".
MT
To think I was looking at a HF engine!
Forgot to mention no wet fuel or oil on the air filter. That was mainly what I was after and ended up fixing it and getting the valves set right in the process. How much more power now?
Video https://vimeo.com/115619373
The carb adapter I made is then in the level postion seen attached to the elbow bend manifold.
External star tooth washer and gooped for wet weather protection, and the point cover as always also gooped with high temp copper rtv.
Two thicknesses for fine sand paper I used to set the gap at about 0.018 inch the flywheel (which is under it) to the magneto lamination poles.
All the solid wire from the magneto soldered to stranded high temp flexible wire and gooped so less chance of breaking. I fixed a break of the wire where it was a bear to fix many years ago. I melted the epoxy to get a nub to solder to and gooped it over and heat shrinked strain reliefed. It has not had any issues.
The soda can shim is under neath and on both sides of the condenser and its mount so the points line up real good and gapped 0.020".
MT
To think I was looking at a HF engine!
Forgot to mention no wet fuel or oil on the air filter. That was mainly what I was after and ended up fixing it and getting the valves set right in the process. How much more power now?
Video https://vimeo.com/115619373
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The bikes back together and I could only check it out going slow, till I get to legal OHV area. I think the new pulley (adjustable diameter) I replaced grabs better than the old one. It got a groove in it most likely from the adverse effect from the rear drive pulley that had to be replaced but did not see it crack (washing machine pulley cracked and now a new Whizzer clone sheave) for a while as I kept riding. Loose and tighten as the effect of the belt probably messed to opposing pulley. It was less than 20 bucks, so I got a new one. Cleaned with acetone all pulleys and with the engine back running in tune, I'll be seeing how it goes when I really get to test it out.
MT
MT
I posted a video on Vimeo and it is also as content of thread below Travels & Adventures.
http://vimeo.com/116519507
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=592356#post592356
A more cushion seat so I could sit a while more on some lesser rough trail sections would be nice when I cut the foam and mod a banana seat extra I have.
Standing is OK and is necessary a large portion of trail riding I know, but my engine and covers stick out a bit on the sides making it hard to stand. Muscles you did not know you have become a bit sore.
I can't wait to try it out on some big hills to see how much better grab the belts have, especially since one pulley I replaced as the surface had worn.
MT
http://vimeo.com/116519507
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=592356#post592356
A more cushion seat so I could sit a while more on some lesser rough trail sections would be nice when I cut the foam and mod a banana seat extra I have.
Standing is OK and is necessary a large portion of trail riding I know, but my engine and covers stick out a bit on the sides making it hard to stand. Muscles you did not know you have become a bit sore.
I can't wait to try it out on some big hills to see how much better grab the belts have, especially since one pulley I replaced as the surface had worn.
MT
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I've been reading your thread on and off and run into some of the same problems. Exhaust- was at the store seein those water heater flexible tubes... Came home, saw your thread, and decided to use it. Open exhaust very loud 
I'm also using the same carb. The intake that goes with it is a bolt-on for the briggs. I had a leak problem as well, did the spring bending like you said and it got fixed. Good carb. Easy to adjust.
I like your write-ups; lots of good info and ideas. I gotta set my valves as well just too lazy to take the motor off again.
I'm also using the same carb. The intake that goes with it is a bolt-on for the briggs. I had a leak problem as well, did the spring bending like you said and it got fixed. Good carb. Easy to adjust. I like your write-ups; lots of good info and ideas. I gotta set my valves as well just too lazy to take the motor off again.
Not had any work done on the Fish Covering any more than what was already. I have the newer used Brigg 3.5 upgrade engine installed though. I have a thread for that and videos in the woods using it. I have now my second bi-annual sticker for OHV in CA now. Bike still runs good! One day if I can get to it and I can find a place to work on the cover I will be doing it.
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/adapting-briggs-build-to-accept-bigger-engine.61684/page-3
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/got-it-pegged.62672/
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/hollister-ca.62568/
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/adapting-briggs-build-to-accept-bigger-engine.61684/page-3
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/got-it-pegged.62672/
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/hollister-ca.62568/
