Hey i'm new here this is my first post. I have a new carb a dellorto sha 15.15 anyways with everything hooked up snug i do not have enough cable exposed for my slide to rest at ease down in the carb. I contacted the company i ordered the cable and carb from and i was advised to make the throttle cable 'housing' shorter which in turn will expose more of the cable itself. Now that is a feat in itself. I tried to do so with the cable the kit came with and i was amazed when i tried to cut a 3/4 inch section of the cable out what was inside the black cable housing. Any pointers on what i can do here to expose more of the cable. The adjuster at the throttle and at the carb are as close as they can get so that wont help.
Throttle cable housing shortening . . .
- Thread starter Blm25super
- Start date
You'll need to pull some of the cable through the housing and cut the housing with a decent pair of dikes. The housing is coiled steel with a vinyl sheath, as I'm sure you've found out!
If your cable has a stop on it, you'll need to cut it off so you can pull the cable through enough to shorten the housing. Of course, you'll have to make a new cable end, or ferrule, as well. Norm's method works well:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=9010
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=2284&postcount=17
If your cable has a stop on it, you'll need to cut it off so you can pull the cable through enough to shorten the housing. Of course, you'll have to make a new cable end, or ferrule, as well. Norm's method works well:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=9010
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=2284&postcount=17
Aleman and I usually agree on most things but I'll offer an alternative here.
Cutting the housing with side cutters, or dikes, can crimp the steel case shut which can be a bugger to reopen. I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel then sand the end where I cut it to take off any small burrs. After cutting make sure the cable slides easily through the housing where it was cut.
Making cables and housings the right length can be a challenge if you don't completely understand the way a cable works. The housing as well as the cable must be the right length or you'll have slack or it will be too tight. A little experimentation will help.
Cable housing ferrels are available at most any bicycle shop. They come in metal or plastic. Most are standard size. Some require a tool to crimp them on, some are simply pushed on to the end of the housing.
Tom
Cutting the housing with side cutters, or dikes, can crimp the steel case shut which can be a bugger to reopen. I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel then sand the end where I cut it to take off any small burrs. After cutting make sure the cable slides easily through the housing where it was cut.
Making cables and housings the right length can be a challenge if you don't completely understand the way a cable works. The housing as well as the cable must be the right length or you'll have slack or it will be too tight. A little experimentation will help.
Cable housing ferrels are available at most any bicycle shop. They come in metal or plastic. Most are standard size. Some require a tool to crimp them on, some are simply pushed on to the end of the housing.
Tom
There isn't any way to adjust the cable sheath stop at either the twist throttle or the carb's slide-top? Most small moto carbs have a way to adjust out the cable length.
Here is what I did. I ordered a mini cable stop from treatland. It's small enough to fit the kit throttle. Here's a link: www.treatland.tv/moped-miniest-knarp-cable-stop-ever-p/moped-miniest-knarp.htm
What you will want to do is cut the end of the cable where it goes into the throttle tube, not the end that goes into the carb. Then pull the cable out of the housing. Run the housing from the handlebars to the carb, and cut it where you have just enough housing to reach the carb, in other words, remove any excess that is left after the housing is long enough to reach from the handlebars to the carb. Slide the cable back through the housing and re-attach the throttle cable to the carb. Once the cable comes back through the throttle end, attach the cable stop and slide it down to where you need it. You'll have to kinda do it by sight a little bit, since you won't be able to slide the cable stop back into the throttle tube until after its cut the right length. Once you've got the cable stop where you want it, tighten the little screw with a flathead screwdriver and slide the cable stop into the throttle tube. Re-assemble the throttle housing and check the throttle cable for slack, as you may have a little bit. I did. If you have slack, adjust the cable adjusters until there is no more slack. It worked great for me, and it should work fine for you as well. You will also have the ability to make a new throttle cable out of any regular bicycle cable in the future, should you need to.
What you will want to do is cut the end of the cable where it goes into the throttle tube, not the end that goes into the carb. Then pull the cable out of the housing. Run the housing from the handlebars to the carb, and cut it where you have just enough housing to reach the carb, in other words, remove any excess that is left after the housing is long enough to reach from the handlebars to the carb. Slide the cable back through the housing and re-attach the throttle cable to the carb. Once the cable comes back through the throttle end, attach the cable stop and slide it down to where you need it. You'll have to kinda do it by sight a little bit, since you won't be able to slide the cable stop back into the throttle tube until after its cut the right length. Once you've got the cable stop where you want it, tighten the little screw with a flathead screwdriver and slide the cable stop into the throttle tube. Re-assemble the throttle housing and check the throttle cable for slack, as you may have a little bit. I did. If you have slack, adjust the cable adjusters until there is no more slack. It worked great for me, and it should work fine for you as well. You will also have the ability to make a new throttle cable out of any regular bicycle cable in the future, should you need to.
You shouldn't need a new ferrel either. What I always do is take a lighter, heat the ferrel a bit and pull it off gently with a pair of pliers, then set it down somewhere I won't step on it. After I cut the cable housing, I slide the ferrel back on, then heat it again. This heats the plastic, which kind of "glues" the ferrel on. Let the ferrel cool completely before installing the cable.
thx guys i missed most of these responses. I just ordered a shorter bend adjuster piece from treatland. but for some reason they orders are 'pending' even though their site says they have the parts i ordered in stock. but i will remember this thread because it sounds like it will be useful in the future. Also found this which may be useful http://www.flanderscables.com/FlanCableSearch.html
