OK HELP. Installed NEW 48cc SkyHawk...

his196 · Jun 19, 2011

All components GOOD.

Carb,Thotttle,Choke, Tension, Kill, BUT....

When I go to Speed, and then engage Clutch, I get MASSIVE resistance, and yet, no START!

I've checked the plug, and there IS spark.

I've tightened ALL other components.

There is simply NO pump, no start when pedaling FAST!

Thoughts/ideas?

Thanks!

Chris Burton

Al.Fisherman · Jun 19, 2011

One of the most common problems are with the spark plug, magneto or CDI or both being defective. Just because you check spark outside the engine doesn't mean it will be enough to fire the fuel with the plug installed.. Also with wiring from the magneto, or kill switch.

If you haven't, change to a NGK plug. Check and re solder the magneto wires, and while testing, disconnect the kill switch. Make sure the wire connection at the CDI are good.

his196 said:
When I go to Speed, and then engage Clutch, I get MASSIVE resistance, and yet, no START! Chris Burton

Can you peddle and have the engine piston rotate (without what you call massive resistance?) WITHOUT the spark plug installed?

Ballin on a Budget · Jun 19, 2011

I absoloutly agree with Al on elimnating the kill switch temporarily as well. Also, after you take it out to try to start, (peddaling with the clutch engaged turning the engine) check your spark plug to see if it is wet, or smells like fuel just to make sure that you are indeed getting fuel into the carb/engine. I know alot of ppl have had problems with the main jet in the carb being loose from the facory, so go over your carb and ensure its assembled correctly and everything is tight.

Dont get too frusterated and remember 2 things.....
1 - All a motor needs to run is Fuel, Air, and correctly timed spark
2 - Our bikes/motors are simply nuts and bolts so its impossible for them to outsmart us!!!!

Wippenshox · Jun 19, 2011

Ballin on a Budget said:
1 - All a motor needs to run is Fuel, Air, and correctly timed spark

You forgot Compression.

his196 · Jun 20, 2011

Ok all, thanks for the help.

Almost done isolating issue.

Here's what I've got:

Spark good/strong (New NGK installed);

Magneto/CDI good;

Clutch adjusted to perfection, real clean engagement;

Took apart carb, double checked all components clean/functioning;

Chain/sprocket/tension/alignment all good/tight;

Throttle functioning properly, choke functioning properly, fuel line clean/operational, with proper mix.

So, here's what I DID find:

When the spark plug is removed, and I do a test run and engage clutch, the piston pumps EASY, immediately and consistantly, and sounds like it's ready for the fuel and spark and it'll roar to life!

But the moment I put the plug back in, whether partially (just sealing the hole) and/or all the way in, I get one to NONE on the piston pumping up and down.

What's my issue here guys?

Thanks much.

his196 · Jun 20, 2011

Oops, just realized you asked this Ron:

"Can you peddle and have the engine piston rotate (without what you call massive resistance?) WITHOUT the spark plug installed?"

YES, and it sounds great!

What's my dealio?

Helen Weals · Jun 20, 2011

Does the plug get wet? If not check fuel supply and carb

thunderbolts · Jun 20, 2011

is the plug getting soaked? if so you may be hydro locking the motor. Have you ever tryed to start a weed wacker when it's flooded?

his196 · Jun 20, 2011

plug wet, not soaked though.

How to drain motor so not flooded?

Very curious as to why it pumps/cycles when spark plug not in.

Anyone?

Thanks again to all.

his196 · Jun 20, 2011

Although I don't believe it's flooded...

his196 · Jun 21, 2011

Hey Ron,

REAL curious as to your question re: "Does the piston pump when the sparkplug is removed?".

Answer: Yes, and sounds great. But when I reinstall S.P., I hardly get any movement on the piston, except maybe one rotation (up/down) every 5 feet of travel...weird!

Please advise, and thanks again!

~Chris

CardInSpokes · Jun 21, 2011

Without the plug installed you have no compression when the piston travels upward in the cylinder/head. With the plug in you get full compression which = resistance. Is it possible that your clutch is slipping when the plug is in? If not adjusted properly it could slip with full compression making it hard to pedal and not cause the piston to travel up and down.

Al.Fisherman · Jun 21, 2011

his196 said:
plug wet, not soaked though.

How to drain motor so not flooded?

Very curious as to why it pumps/cycles when spark plug not in.

Anyone?

Thanks again to all.

If you feel you need to "drain motor" Remove spark plug, and let it sit with the piston at BDC. Gas will evaporate most likely overnight.

The plug doesn't need to be installed into the head for the piston to move up and down. Thank goodness. Did that answer your question? If so and you need a reason, I'll be happy to explain the process if need be.

camlifter · Jun 21, 2011

your clutch is sliping. adjust the star nut.

Al.Fisherman · Jun 21, 2011

Default Re: OK HELP. Installed NEW 48cc SkyHawk...
your clutch is sliping. adjust the star nut.

I'll agree with this assessment. If there is need for excessive force when peddling with the clutch disengaged, then it needs adjustment. Sounds like the star nut needs to be tightened. Finer adjustments can be made at the clutch arm.

his196 · Jun 22, 2011

Sincere thanks to all, will try that tonight.

Regarding my concern for why the piston moves w/o the spark plug in was in reflecting upon why it DOESN'T move well with the plug in, that's all.

Thanks again. Will update.

~Chris

rustycase · Jun 22, 2011

Sounds like a great one! Uber compression! Break it in nice when u get er to fire off.
...I'm going for the slippy clutch, too, once hydro-lock was eliminated... LoL I dun that with chainsaws before... just pull that plug and spin er over a bit to clear it out.
rc

his196 · Jun 22, 2011

Ok, thanks all.

Followed the instructions on this forum for resetting the flower nut.

Clutch lever to the handlebar, (thanks wifey);

Removed lock screw.

Pushed plate all the way in, and hand-tightened flower not, then backed it off 1/2 turn. Put lock screw back in, not tight yet.

Then, released clutch to full up pos. and then tightened lock screw.

Readjusted clutch lever/bar correctly, and had good freewheel/engaged action on clutch.

Got it to fire up for all of 2.3 seconds and then back to where I started.

So do I go back and loosen 'er up another half turn, or do I crank it back down tight, without backing it off at all?

:-||

his196 · Jun 22, 2011

Ok pleased to announce, after going back in and tightening the flower nut all the way down, I got her to start, and run for about 100 yards before my chain snapped.

Poor alignment and/or the motor has a little bit of wiggle in it as one of the mounts isn't as tight as it should've been.

Well, at least she runs!

Time for a new chain and better alignment.

Thanks again to all for the help.

Best...

Chris

Greg58 · Jun 22, 2011

Remember your engine needs to be mounted "rock solid" no movement, if you can move it by pushing or pulling on it engine torque will be ten times stronger. Any looseness will cause the chain to bounce up and down or side to side with the chain coming off. IT IS VERY BAD TO BE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITH A BROKEN CHAIN.

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