Honda 4 stroke clutch dramas

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Damo302

New Member
Mar 29, 2013
3
0
0
Sydney
Hi I have a 4 stroke Honda with a belt drive transmission I think it's the 4g attached to a shift kit the problem I'm having is it won't disengage the clutch even when it's at really low idle is this normal when its stationary it makes a **** of a racket the clutch hitting the bell but as soon as you take off its silent

Well confused any suggestion appreciated
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
2,653
4
38
el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
I had the same problem when I built mine in 2010, the problem was caused by 2 things:

1, The springs in the clutch shoes are weak. You can take em apart and add washers to increase their pressure. Some clutches have stronger springs than others, tho.
I ended up replacing my clutch, new one has nice springs.

2, the clutch needs to be tight on the shaft. If it slops around, it will make a racket and will damage your clutch and clutch drum eventually.
You will need to make a custom key for the shaft using a file or grinder. The kit key is too small and made of crappy metal. It will distort eventually.
If you still can't get it tight on the shaft, then you may need to use plumber's putty, as I've seen the user "cobrafreak" do during a 4G bearing conversion on my bike.

Your bike should be able to roll backwards and the 4G clutch drum spins freely. If not, see 1 and 2 :D
 

Damo302

New Member
Mar 29, 2013
3
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0
Sydney
It doesn't roll backwards at all the last time I had it open I'm pretty sure it was tight on the shaft so I guess that leaves me with a broken or loose spring ill pull it apart 2morro and have a closer look
 

Damo302

New Member
Mar 29, 2013
3
0
0
Sydney
Ok had a fiddle replaced with the washers they were a bit nasty springs look good but still same problem when i push against the bell housing when it's idling the noise stops should there be any play in the housing or should in not move if so what's the solution ??
 

rhodeisland

New Member
Oct 30, 2012
83
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0
Rhode Island
If the clutch has play or slop on the crank shaft take an old feeler gauge set and cut pieces that fit in the gap between the clutch /crank shaft and make a snug fit.

You will eventually brake the clutch bell or worse chip out the key way on the crankshaft.

I went through this misery on a 4G build last year.
You can also bring your clutch to your local hardware store and size up a new key with a proper size one and it might possibly be metric.

Good Luck Ride On
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
That is one of the most problematic three shoe clutches on planet earth......the 5/8" straight shaft clutch that is.

No matter what anybody thinks, the three shoe tapered shaft clutch is far superior and the adjustability even more so.

Such the drama this....
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
6,505
24
38
Ridin' inSane Diego, CA.
Oh, I forgot too mention for the most bombproof clutch bell, you need to get a hold of black oxide coated bell that is shipped with the GoPed CY 46 (GP 460) engine that DDM sells if you can find one. Unfortunately DDM doesn't sell the bell separately and I don't know of anyone else who does. I don't know the part # either but it is a direct replaceable bell that is a must for the 4G tranny's that I own.
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
2,653
4
38
el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
Heh, no mang, it's extremely versatile and cheaper than any of your $100+ clutches you guys need for your overstressed Preds, let alone Morinis. :p

Anyway, proper installation of clutch and drum on a GXH50 or HS (B-E) in a shifter 4G setup yields the best results, it has to be done right.

Why don't you build one and utilize your chevrolegs, Scotto? :D I think you're gettin spoilt :p
 

Jim C

Member
Jul 11, 2010
200
6
18
Long Beach Calif
I don't have the Honda but do have the HS 142 - 49 cc motor with the 4 G T3 clutch and drive. On my initial assembly the out put sprocket would only freewheel in the forward direction. I did call the distributor and got information on things to look for. I completely dismantled it and found nothing wrong. I very carefully put it all back together and it worked. I do not believe in the old take it apart and put it back together theory but this time it worked.
After running this for awhile I think I would be happier if I had purchased a slipper type clutch instead of the centrifugal clutch. Oh well there is always another build
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
2,653
4
38
el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
I don't have the Honda but do have the HS 142 - 49 cc motor with the 4 G T3 clutch and drive. On my initial assembly the out put sprocket would only freewheel in the forward direction. I did call the distributor and got information on things to look for. I completely dismantled it and found nothing wrong. I very carefully put it all back together and it worked. I do not believe in the old take it apart and put it back together theory but this time it worked.
After running this for awhile I think I would be happier if I had purchased a slipper type clutch instead of the centrifugal clutch. Oh well there is always another build
I've had mine for nearly 3 years, and while I had to deal with some teething problems, I consider it to be most versatile system out there.
The shifter 4G is extremely engaging, abrupt in it's movements, and quirky with it's freewheeling. But I love mine. Cruise 5-35 quiet or loud.
The Huasheng 49cc makes ~2HP and 2lb/ft with good exhaust and intake, and it will slow down with any incline or headwind without pedaling.
Set up properly, it can be a snarly lil thing that really does it's best work 5-7K RPM, it's up to the builder to get it straight.


The centrifugal can work very well, but you may need to add washers, like I said. The washers effectively increase spring pressure.
You'll ideally want ~60lbs/in. You might want to buy another clutch so you can play with the old one.

Also, I highly recommend using KMC HL710 on the 11/17 part or, the jackshaft input. This chain has great adjustability and longevity.
You can use it on j/s output too, tracks nice.
I currently use HL710 on input, #35 (9/76) on j/s output, and 415H from crank to hub. Used many other chains, but these last!
My SBP input uses an 18T Staton gear, HL710 gives perfect length easily regardless.



That pic I was using a 410H on 44/15 with (75/100/133%) Sturmey X-RD3. The 410H got sloppy quickly, spot the sprung idler!

Shifter 4Gs require a certain finesse to build and ride, but you get to know it well and it will reward you with a visceral experience at any speed.