Chain getting stuck in Clutch Cover

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 9, 2009

I got a new 415 chain and i'm having serios problems with it. When I pedal the bike it's fine. I was able to start the engine right away on the new chain. However when I stoped and when to start it again the chain jamed inside the clutch cover right on the left screw hole area. I played around with the chain tensioner and unstuck the chain 3x and 3x it james up in the same spot again and again. I'm really getting fed up with gas powered motor's. There so damn picky it's anoying. Atleast when I jump on my road bike I know it wont fail on me. With the motor u never know what problem it's gonna throw at you..

Sincerely frustrated beyond anything....

freewheeling frank · Sep 9, 2009

sounds like your chain is too loose,also you may try filing down the teeth on the sprocket hope this helps amigo

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 9, 2009

freewheeling frank said:
sounds like your chain is too loose,also you may try filing down the teeth on the sprocket hope this helps amigo

Which sprocket ? The clutch cover or the big back one ? If anything I thought the chain was to tight but I can try and make it tighter. How much slack do u want on the chain ?

Norman · Sep 9, 2009

top chain run about 1/2" slack at mid span of the chain. If your hanging up in the front sprocket area you might see just where it snagging. if you have a dremmel use a fiber cutting wheel and give the area a little extra room. I know someone else has posted photos of doing this but I'm not sure where to direct you to that post. You might try doing a search.
Norman

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 10, 2009

Norman said:
top chain run about 1/2" slack at mid span of the chain. If your hanging up in the front sprocket area you might see just where it snagging. if you have a dremmel use a fiber cutting wheel and give the area a little extra room. I know someone else has posted photos of doing this but I'm not sure where to direct you to that post. You might try doing a search.
Norman

Grind the bolt hole section to make it a tad thiner ?

BarelyAWake · Sep 10, 2009

This is so obvious I feel the fool for sayin it but...

Have you lubed the new chain thoroughly? My new 415 was doing the same thing despite the fact I thought I had oiled it up good, yet when I pulled it back off again I noticed that some of the links would bind and stick.

So I soaked it in a quality chain lube (in a coffee can), wiped it down, reinstalled it, and hit it with the waxy spray lube I normally use.

I haven't had that prob again *shrug*

freewheeling frank · Sep 10, 2009

i think you guys have it all covered here so im backing off

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 10, 2009

BarelyAWake said:
This is so obvious I feel the fool for sayin it but...

Have you lubed the new chain thoroughly? My new 415 was doing the same thing despite the fact I thought I had oiled it up good, yet when I pulled it back off again I noticed that some of the links would bind and stick.

So I soaked it in a quality chain lube (in a coffee can), wiped it down, reinstalled it, and hit it with the waxy spray lube I normally use.

I haven't had that prob again *shrug*

I didn't think of trying that. However if this would be the cause wouldnt it get stuck while pedlading ?

BarelyAWake · Sep 10, 2009

It only jammed a little while pedaling on me like twice while new, I only later noticed it due to a problem rolling the bike backwards, it would sometimes hitch a little. I thought it was an alignment issue (as the pedaling was) until I was feeding the chain back on and she bound up solid. Taking the cover off I saw a link section had jammed because it hadn't bent to follow the sprocket.

I think it was the difference in slack between freewheeling and under load (with mine anyway)

When I had the chain off it seemed fine, I'm even a bit obsessive about lubricating the drive chain as I ride a lot. Yet as I later did a link-by-link inspection I found that some were still binding. It wasn't because they were dry, it was due to the chain being so poorly made some sections were jammed tighter than others.

So I dropped it in a coffee can and dumped a bottle of chain oil on it and let it sit for the night, I didn't bother to work the links much. It works fine now, but I'm going to get a better grade chain this week as the common 415 seems to be garbage anyway.

I dunno if this is your problem, but it surprised me a little

2door · Sep 10, 2009

Not all but a high percentage of the kit supplied #415 chains are poorly made and prone to binding. Some even have a twist to them if you lay them on a flat surface and look at them. Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, Grainger, all carry #41 industrial chain which is the perfect replacement for the #415 kit chain.
As for the sprocket teeth needing filing/grinding, I've never encountered this but some have. The engine drive sprocket's teeth might be a little rough and could benefit from a light dressing to take off the burrs.
Norm was refering to a modification that I do to all engines. ( http://motorbicycling.com/f4/chain-noise-6682.html )There is a small area inside the clutch actuator cover where the chain rubs. I've never had one bind there but a loose chain certainly could bunch up at that spot. You can relieve the area with a Dremel tool and a sanding drum to get clearance for the chain. This also helps reduce chain/clutch noise. Its easy to see; remove the clutch actuator cover and the area in question is on the inside front. Every engine I've inspected showed signs of chain contact there. It only takes removal of about 1/16" material to keep the chain from touching.
Above all make sure your chain tension/alignment is correct. A too loose or tight chain and side pull is the biggest cause of chain/sprocket problems along with improper installation of the rear sprocket.
Tom

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 10, 2009

2door said:
Not all but a high percentage of the kit supplied #415 chains are poorly made and prone to binding. Some even have a twist to them if you lay them on a flat surface and look at them. Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, Grainger, all carry #41 industrial chain which is the perfect replacement for the #415 kit chain.
As for the sprocket teeth needing filing/grinding, I've never encountered this but some have. The engine drive sprocket's teeth might be a little rough and could benefit from a light dressing to take off the burrs.
Norm was refering to a modification that I do to all engines. ( http://motorbicycling.com/f4/chain-noise-6682.html )There is a small area inside the clutch actuator cover where the chain rubs. I've never had one bind there but a loose chain certainly could bunch up at that spot. You can relieve the area with a Dremel tool and a sanding drum to get clearance for the chain. This also helps reduce chain/clutch noise. Its easy to see; remove the clutch actuator cover and the area in question is on the inside front. Every engine I've inspected showed signs of chain contact there. It only takes removal of about 1/16" material to keep the chain from touching.
Above all make sure your chain tension/alignment is correct. A too loose or tight chain and side pull is the biggest cause of chain/sprocket problems along with improper installation of the rear sprocket.
Tom

I can try tightening it and if that dont work I may just give up on the engine all togther. I'm sick of the problem after problems I have with it. The engine works great but the overall kit has given me nothing but headace's and wasted time and energy.

For where it's getting caught it's right where on of the bolts would go to keep cover on. You have 2 at top and 2 at the bottom. The 1 on the top that's closer to the exaust is where the chain rides up into. I can take a pic if needed.

2door · Sep 10, 2009

Souds like a loose chain. Look at your chain with the bike setting and push it forward, engine off, clutch engaged. Measure the slack in the chain at the top and make it so there is 1/2" to 3/4" slack, no more, no less than that. If your chain tension is correct then look closely at the alignment from the front (engine) sprocket to the rear one including the tensioner wheel. Everything MUST be in line. If you don't have the correct tension or alignment then you've found the problem. Fix it and be on your way.
Tom

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 10, 2009

I shall give it a try but at this point I'm thinking of sooner or later removing the kit and selling it and going electric. Less headace and quiter with no viberations.

ADDICTED BICYCLES · Sep 11, 2009

I have the #41 chain. I gotta say, it's a beast! Fits like it was meant to be, and there is no way you're snappin that thing! lol. I'm very impressed with #41 chain. Available at some small engine shops, tractor sales shops, or some auto shops...(I got mine 10' box at princess auto) I have a spare #41, for my 44t sprocket, and the one on there now, for my 48t sprocket. Well worth the twenty bucks or so.

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 15, 2009

Here is where the problem is I think. Very little clearance for the chain so it's getting stuck right above where the bolt hole is for cover.

2door · Sep 15, 2009

Moped,
Remove the chain, lay it out on a flat surface and inspect it for rollers that do not roll or twists. Everything looks normal in your photo and no reason is apparent for your chain to bind at that point except for a chain that is not following the curvature of the sprocket. I assume you have checked your tension as described previously? Check that chain and replace it with #41 if you find any binding or twists in it. Get back to us here. We'll get you going. We wouldn't want to loose you to the electric crowd.

Tom

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 16, 2009

2door said:
Moped,
Remove the chain, lay it out on a flat surface and inspect it for rollers that do not roll or twists. Everything looks normal in your photo and no reason is apparent for your chain to bind at that point except for a chain that is not following the curvature of the sprocket. I assume you have checked your tension as described previously? Check that chain and replace it with #41 if you find any binding or twists in it. Get back to us here. We'll get you going. We wouldn't want to loose you to the electric crowd.

Tom

I don't even know where to get a #41 and I don't have the mean's to shorten the chain to match oringal chain. I was lucky when I got that new chain that's on there now as the store shortened it for me.

I moved the chain tensioner up more and I will try it out tomorow but I'm having my doughts that it will not get stuck.

2door · Sep 16, 2009

Be optimistic, Moped.
Are there any bicycle shops near you? They should be able to shorten the chain and if not how about a motorcycle shop. I know they could do it. I'm not familiar with sources for #41 chain in Canada but look for an industrial supplier. In the states we have places like Grainger, Tractor Supply and even Ace Hardware carries the #41 chain and master links. It is a very common item and I'm certain a little Internet search will award you with aa source for that size chain. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Tom

Mopedamauter79 · Sep 16, 2009

2door said:
Be optimistic, Moped.
Are there any bicycle shops near you? They should be able to shorten the chain and if not how about a motorcycle shop. I know they could do it. I'm not familiar with sources for #41 chain in Canada but look for an industrial supplier. In the states we have places like Grainger, Tractor Supply and even Ace Hardware carries the #41 chain and master links. It is a very common item and I'm certain a little Internet search will award you with aa source for that size chain. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Tom

How much do they go for ? I spend $70 on this new chain..

I'm guessing and tractor supply store would be location outside the city and I do not drive so that would be an issuse.

Brvnkaerv · Sep 17, 2009

I found my new chain at a bike shop. As it turns out, some of these kid's stunt banana-bikes... The ones with the foot pegs on the front wheel, use the 415 chain. It was still made in China, but it was of a better steel, and coated with a light cosmoline. I have found it superior to the kit-chain. Brvnkaerv

Chain getting stuck in Clutch Cover

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