More engine problems.

I'm about to buy a new jet to fix the 4 stroking guys. If there is anything you can tell me to keep me from wasting my money if it isn't the problem, what is it?

Chaz said:

4 stroking is caused by an over rich fuel/air mixture. So if your exhaust is not the culprit then it is the jet. Can't remember what slot you have the needle clip in.

You can try running without the air filter on just to see what happens. Maybe the filter is full of oil or other crud?

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I have a piece of spring metal holding my needle in place at the leanest setting, and it works surprisingly well. I lost my clip, again, so I improvised.

I actually cut my filter into strips and placed them in the four tubes in the filter cover, which improved things a bit. My engine was four stroking before this, so it's not the cause.

It won't start at all with the choke on full, and starts hesitantly with it at half. I'm running it at around 2.6 ounces of oil per gallon, havent had problems arising from that yet.

I did buy the new .62mm jet, so that's on its way. I learned that standard jet size for most 66cc engines is .66mm. I still need to get a new muffler pipe, but for right now, my makeshift muffler is doing the job well. A frigging Kickstart can is my new muffler! YAY!

Anyways, if this new jet doesn't work, then it likely is the more expensive exhaust. Will get an expansion chamber on the first opportunity I can. Other than this new jet and exhaust, this engine is stock.

Ok, so yet another problem, and a solution to the 4stroking. New problem is my clutch is now spinning freely, as in fully engaged and I can still pedal with only a small amount of effort needed. Idk if I burnt it out or what, but it's not grabbing at all. And it turns out that if it's cold outside, my engine won't four stroke at all. On warmer days, it does. So, I guess I need to have two carbs, one for cold weather, one for warm weather. I made 35mph tonight on the Strip, and it is hella cold out right now. This also means I need a fuel line splitter with valves on each, but I'm going to keep the original on the tank as a master valve. Back to the clutch: I first noticed it spinning freely when all of a sudden, starting from a stop, I was making high rpms, but not getting to the speeds I was expecting. I rode all the way home from halfway down the Strip to Pecos and Washington, without disengaging my clutch, and that's a 15 mile ride. What could be going on with it other than contamination (it isn't contaminated at all) or the pads being burnt out or worn?

I tried adjusting the clutch. I tightened the cable because that somehow came loose, but got nothing. So I tried loosening the drive sprocket cover slightly. Still nothing. Tried tightening the flower nut, nothing.

Interesting development, I have a bipolar engine! I let it sit overnight, and it "fixed" itself. It grabs now, and even before I took off the cable, I couldn't turn the wheel freely. What would the heat related issues be? Would a centrifugal clutch kit help reduce this issue? I know it isn't the cable, as it was hella loose, and it isn't the pressure plate. It has to be the pads.

I'm going to change my sprocket to a 40 tooth. A little less acceleration, but I'd at least be able to go 40, which in Vegas, is needed. That's only 5 mph slower than the standard speed limit here. What's worse is I have to deal with brainless drivers who apparently like to decorate their cars with blood. But, what's even more scary is most accidents down here are hit and runs, but what isn't as scary is most accidents not involving pedestrians are usually cars against cars. Haven't heard of many motorcycle wrecks with a car at all. I've only heard of two cyclist wrecks this year. I've seen four flipped cars, twenty wrecked cars, and I've been here for three years. All of these I've seen in the past year and a half. I wanna go home where drivers are a little less brainless!!!