Rebuild and Replacing nuts/screws before install?
- Thread starter Gawdzahh
- Start date
Heres the thread on grinding for chain clearance
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=465011#post465011
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=465011#post465011
I didn't have to do any grinding to run my #41 chain, if your sprocket alignment is good you shouldn't have any problems.
Sprocket alignment has nothing to do with it, I'm afraid. The problem is clearance. I align my sprockets with a straight edge, front to rear and they are perfect. Every engine I've had has displayed chain interference at the place indicated in the link that maniac57 posted. Remove your clutch actuator cover and check. I'll be willing to bet that there will be evidence of the chain hitting the cover.
Tom
Thanks for that.... I had to do some grinding for clearance on the #41 chain as I could not even rotate the engine without it nibbling at the 3 screw cover. I found 2Doors' photos in his June 28 post to be most helpful just where and about how much to grind.
I disagree. I have no evidence of rubbing from my #41 chain. Chain alignment does play a role because if your chain is dog legging in or bowing out it is more likely to rub than if it is a straight shot from front to back... That is not only my opinion but has been my experience...
there's slight differences in engines, so you're both (probably) right.
my starfire gt4's and skyhawk gt5's will take a 41 chain without modifying anything. they all show some chain rub, but not enough to be an issue.
my starfire gt4's and skyhawk gt5's will take a 41 chain without modifying anything. they all show some chain rub, but not enough to be an issue.
by the way, you can buy #41 Diamond chains, made in usa, off ebay for as low as $35 for 10'.
thats what i use, and haven't broken any yet.
thats what i use, and haven't broken any yet.
I got my #41 farm chain from Tractor Supply 10' box for just under $20 and also picked up a couple of extra master links but cannot feature ever needing them.
I cannot say for sure about my previous chain alignment because I had simply sighted down the length of the chain. I have now shorted the #41 and eliminated the scary idler and I did carefully check the alignment with a pocket laser this time. I transferred the idler to the pedal chain and everything seems to be working fine I feel more comfortable with it on the pedal power chain. Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.
I cannot say for sure about my previous chain alignment because I had simply sighted down the length of the chain. I have now shorted the #41 and eliminated the scary idler and I did carefully check the alignment with a pocket laser this time. I transferred the idler to the pedal chain and everything seems to be working fine I feel more comfortable with it on the pedal power chain. Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.
i bought a 41 chain from Fastenal for 18 bucks a while back. it too was made in china. although it looked good, it was the one that snapped and slapped back into the case and cracked it.
i like Diamond chains because they've been made in the usa since 1900 or so. seriously. you don't stay in business for over a century by making crap. there's none better, in my experience.
i like Diamond chains because they've been made in the usa since 1900 or so. seriously. you don't stay in business for over a century by making crap. there's none better, in my experience.
Another brand is Morse. It is also USA made and industrial strength. You won't find it at Ace Hardware but is is available at industrial supply places like Applied Technologies and some bearing and drive component distributors.
Diamond is very good chain and easier to find however. A little less expensive too.
Tom
Diamond is very good chain and easier to find however. A little less expensive too.
Tom
