Huasheng Oil Change

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Mr. Minecraft

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Jan 13, 2012
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I am going to replace the oil in my Huasheng. I am currently running Penzoil Platinum 10w-30. I did some research and found that the best oil to use in my engine is Royal Purple 15w-40. Since i am changing the type of oil do i need to do any extra steps when replacing the oil? Also, how do i change the oil in my HS when its mounted on my bike?
 

donphantasmo

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Oct 3, 2010
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I know in cars, the engine is built around a spacific viscosity. So, if your cars is supposed to use 10w-30, do not use 5w-30 in the wintertime (older people used to do that because the engine would run better with thinner oil in the wintertime).

I'm not sure if the Huasheng engines are made with these tight tolernces. I know that royal purple is one of the best oils ever made. Your engine will actuall run better, and free horse power that was bound up in friction (at least in cars).

I would make sure to use what your engine manufacturor suggests. Use Royal Purple 10W-30 weight oil, and you'll probably be ok.
 

Mr. Minecraft

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Thats the thing though, i have never read anywhere that i should use 10w-30. I was told buy someone on here that its better to use 15w-40... Can someone please tell me what the
numbers mean in oil ratings? Like what is the 15w and what is the 40 (for example).
 

The_Aleman

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Jul 31, 2008
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Multiviscosity oil changes it's viscosity (ability to flow) depending on temperature.

15w-40 basically means at about 0C (freezing) it will flow like a 15 weight oil and at 100C (boiling) it will flow like a 40 weight. W means "winter".
Thin oils do not protect a hot engine under high load in the long term because they lack the film strength.

Even if an engine is designed to use a specific weight of oil, it is acceptable to use a thinner or thicker weight oil if the temperatures accommodate it. If an engine is specified to use 10w-30, it's perfectly acceptable to use 5w-30 or even 0w-20 if it's well below freezing. At temperatures of 40 below zero, a thinner oil is needed for cold starts and some engines may never get to full operating temperature.

I recommend 15w-40 for all-around use on our 4-strokes. 10w-30 if you find yourself riding in freezing temperatures or colder. My reasons:

1) Our engines were designed for stationary use at near constant RPM. A stationary engine is not necessarily exposed to the wide range of temperatures or RPMs at intervals that ours are. 15w-40 covers just about any temperature we ride at, from freezing to very hot days.

2) 15w-40 is almost always designed for industrial heavy-duty use. This is the weight of oil that big diesel trucks and most industrial engines exposed to wide temperatures use. It usually has additives that enhance it's ability to protect engines under hard load. Our little industrial/commercial engines deserve the same level of protection.

3) Our engines aren't always level and they don't have an oil pump. They don't hold a lot of oil. Our engines are often on bicycles and that means we lean in corners. Thicker oil has more film strength, which means it "sticks" to engine parts a little better than thinner oil. During that time you're leaning in a corner, your engine theoretically has more oil where it needs it. Racing cars use straight 50 or 60 weight oil for good reason.

As for changing the oil on your Huasheng, there's several ways to do it.

1) You can remove the engine. This is what i did for the first year, since it was quick and easier for me to access it (SBP shift kit).

2) You can get a Drainzit HON1010 remote hose. This screws into the engine where your oil drainplug is and makes oil changes much easier. I have one and think it's a great little part. Draining the oil makes no mess unless you point the hose in the wrong place.

3) You can make your own drain hose. Take a 1-1.25" long 10MM bolt, cut the head off, drill a hole through the middle. Screw that into your engine and attach a hose with a hoseclamp, put a petcock on the end. Home-made remote hose.

4) Scotto's method. Get a bulb-end turkey baster and use it suck the oil out of the fill hole. You can also use it to put a precise amount of oil in your engine. There are other oil change aids that use the same principle.
 

Mr. Minecraft

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Jan 13, 2012
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o_O thank you so much. So royal purple 15w 40 is the best to use. I can't thank you enough. Maybe you should make that a sticky in the 4 stroke section.
 

scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
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o_O thank you so much. So royal purple 15w 40 is the best to use. I can't thank you enough. Maybe you should make that a sticky in the 4 stroke section.
Umm......no, Royal Purple is not the best oil to use , regardless of the weight. In my opinion, and Aleman will verify this, Maxima oils rule and it's a race proven fact.

check em' out: http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

I'd hate not to provide you with the BEST oils available and no, I don't work for or distribute them.

dnut

EDIT: to avoid confusion here, I was stating that Aleman knows of my "opinion", not that he agrees with it laff
 
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Venice Motor Bikes

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Mar 20, 2008
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I'm sure this will 'open a can of worms'; but I think unless you have a extremely high performance engine, you don't really need those expensive oils. :/
Oil tecnology is so good these days that even cheapest brands are way better than oil has ever been in the past! I just use a good 30W in the winter & 40W in the summer. ;)

I'll admit... The only oil I would use in all of my old VWs was Castrol! :rolleyes:
 
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scotto-

Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder
Jun 3, 2010
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I'm sure this will 'open a can of worms'; but I think unless you have a extremely high performance engine, you don't really need those expensive oils. :/
Oil tecnology is so good these days that even cheapest brands are way better than oil has ever been in the past! I just use a good 30W in the winter & 40W in the summer. ;)

I'll admit... The only oil I would use in all of my old VWs was Castrol! :rolleyes:
I concur, Norm's right. And I have a strong liking of Castrol as well. The only oil I would recommend to someone I'm not fond of would be Pennzoil......100% Pennsylvania crude oil.....sorry. :D

dnut
 

Goat Herder

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Apr 28, 2008
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Mr. Minecraft

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Jan 13, 2012
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Alright so i went to Oriely Auto Parts and bought some Royal Purple 15w-40. They had to special order it in because they generally only have 1 gallon and up, not a quart. I drained the old oil and filled it up to the threads. When i started it it bogged like **** for a bit, but then it got back to normal.

EDIT: When i removed the fuel, i had to lift my whole bike onto the rear wheel for the oil to drain out into a cup. When i did this, the carb flooded (I am used to pump carbs on gopeds). That is why it bogged, not because of the oil.
 

Mr. Minecraft

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0_____0 WTF is that?!

EDIT: Valve lash is when there is slack in the valve rod when both valves are closed. This can cause a chattering noise in the engine. Is this right?
 
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The_Aleman

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Jul 31, 2008
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He's asking if you ever adjusted the valves, aka "checking the valve lash". You never did follow up on that.

I'm sure this will 'open a can of worms'; but I think unless you have a extremely high performance engine, you don't really need those expensive oils.
Oil tecnology is so good these days that even cheapest brands are way better than oil has ever been in the past! I just use a good 30W in the winter & 40W in the summer.

I'll admit... The only oil I would use in all of my old VWs was Castrol!
Definitely true, modern oil is worlds ahead what people had to run in the 60's! I remember the manual for my '69 Bug said to run "API-rated SC" oil. The '80's Ford Rangers in my family's fleet of mobile screen service trucks said to run "SF". We're up to "SN" now! However, I still see non-detergent oil being sold in certain places, and looking at the API rating on the bottle they often say "SA" or "SB" :eek:

I concur, Norm's right. And I have a strong liking of Castrol as well. The only oil I would recommend to someone I'm not fond of would be Pennzoil......100% Pennsylvania crude oil.....sorry. :D
Haha! Yeah, Pennzoil has to be some of the worst crap on the shelf. I've found if you look at it wrong it foams right up rotfl
 

Mr. Minecraft

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Jan 13, 2012
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So all I should do is open up the valve cover and check if there is play in the rod and rocker? Should i buy some feeler gauges and check the clearances?
 

Mr. Minecraft

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Jan 13, 2012
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I have been riding my motorbike on Pennzoil for about 2 weeks. Should i buy any additives to run through my engine with the new oil to clean out what the crap oil left behind?