I'm with BBB's statement. As far as I know without a picture and more details, at least all the hubs I think have inner tightening nuts that set the end play for the bearings inside the hub.
If there are no races for the bearings it is a bit tricky to move the threads across without the bearings falling out, but since I had already degreased and repacked the bearings on this hub I knew about this.
When I did this kind of adjustment it was because I have more threads needed on one side than the other. This was due to the fact that the pulley I put on the left side attached to spokes needed to clear the frame on the left side. I put a shim made of aluminum with hole drilled through it to spread the left side out a very small amount. The better way would have been to modify the drop out by cut and weld to make an “s shape” to accommodate the situation at hand, but this was a small enough amount I went with it. The adjustment of the threads if you have enough length and can get by with adjusting an offset with more threads on one side than the other still is necessary even with the “s shape” mod method. If you do not have enough length even with moving threads over, then looking to get a special made or find a part some where that fits can be a bit difficult. Getting the metal round stock and using a die to cut threads and make your own just makes working on building stuff more interesting though
What eventually happened though was even though I had the hub thread amount adjusted as mentioned in the 1st paragraph, was that the bosses I made to attach V-brakes on the frame in the rear, was that the left side brake pad would not reach the rim. It was the first I was doing both front and rear hand pull brakes. The coaster brake is gone as it is a dirt bike and I covered over the area for crank pedals and only have foot pegs. Now in hind sight I would have made a bracket to make the left side rear boss for the V-brake match the distance needed to have the left side brake pad reach the rim. I made do with creating a brake pad shoe for the left rear by extending the distance the shoe originally has. It was by using a tap and die and some threaded coupler and roll pins to fix the threads from loosening and it works. I made a couple extra for the future when the pad wears out. This actually makes the arc swing on the left not exact the same to the right side rear brake pad to rim, but so small you really don't notice it.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=3 see post 27 for my LR brake shoe
MT
