is this an appropriate upgrade path for a big guy needing torque but not high speed?

Hello I am mike and I have a western flyer with a 48cc china girl and I am looking to improve torque because I am almost 300lbs but I am not interested in speeds above 25mph. I think the path to take would be to port match the intake and exhaust and clean up the ports, switch from the 44t sproket I have now to a larger 56t sproket, then an expansion chamber, then a reed valve, would this give me the power I need to climb east tennessee hills with my fat butt and still acheive 25mph or would I be asking too much out this little engine? Also would the xchamber and reed transfer over later on when I buy a 66cc to replace my 48cc or would I need to buy new ones matched to the larger engine and if I did need to buy new ones for the larger engine could I use an xchamber and reedvalve designed for a 66 on my 48 until I swap motors? Im sorry for my ignorance but this is my first 2stroke and all help is appreciated. If there is anything you want to know about rangers or fieros just let me know and ill return the help with my knowledge.

Re: is this an appropriate upgrade path for a big guy needing torque but not high spe

2door said:

Ranger? Ford Ranger pickups?
Yeah, how do you change the dash, instrument lights? My gas guage light, 2001 Ranger, is out.
I've heard that you have to remove the whole dash to get to the lamps. Oh yeah, and my dome lights stay on when the doors are closed. What's with that?

As far as your questions; you should be able to swap all of your parts to the bigger engine with little to no probelms. Rejetting the carburetor might be all you'll have to do.
The bigger rear sprocket will give you better hill climbing ability but keep your top end speed down a few miles per hours.

Tom

Click to expand...

Ill start with the easy thing first, there is a button in the front of the door jamb that the door pushes closed to control the dome light, unscrew the button and and probe the wires with a dmm with the button pushed closed, if you get close to 12v then either your button is bad or you have a short, disconnect the two wires from the button and connect them with a jumper wire and if the light goes off the button is bad if not you have a short and you will need to trace the wires and look for a place where the hot wire is grounding out. Unfortunately you will have to repeat the process on both sides to find out wich one is bad.

I havent had to take the dash apart on your model but on first two generations of ranger you can remove the trim under the column wich will allow you access to the bolts holding on the clear Instrument panel cover then you will be able to get to the bolts to remove the guages and the light is right behind them and just pulls straight out, I would assume your model is the same but I dont have much experience with any ranger after they ruined the suspension in 98 because I refuse to touch one. Long live twin torsion beams.