Performance parts before break in ????

don't paint the wire. it will just flake off and look bad. as longer as your not boosting compression, leaning it out, or reducing backpressure, you really should be 100 percent fine.

just don't want to run lean with a potent coil regardless of break in period or not.

Well not sure what other are doing, but I put a complete performance top end on a brand new never been run 66cc china engine. I ran 16:1 fuel ratio for the first 100 miles than ran 32:1 for about 200 miles and recently switched to opti2 running at a 128:1.1 ratio. So fare so good...

Does the new wire press on/unscrew?
May be able to buy a black lead for it?
When running a motor in, I believe it is good to use the complete rev range you intend to use the motor at, but not so much WOT, and holding prolonged high revs.
I'm not sure what this not doing performance Mods before Break in is really all about, getting the most out of your performance mods to early seems more to the point.
I find it easier to tune a motor properly with a better than standard exhaust, but probably because the motor isn't as 'fussy' with the standard pipe. main thing really is keeping an eye on the motor temp during break in. If this performance Cdi actually does make your motor run cooler, smother, ect. then It would be a good addition from the start or when ever.
Waiting till after break in to raise the compression considerably would probably be a good idea.
Other wise I say bring on the Mods.

PM or Ring me if you have any Questions,
Enjoy.

now now, don't be an askhole. I warn you against reducing back pressure until the break in period has ended. while the rings seat the chamber will be heated more than usual and you want as much back pressure as possible to keep the chamber cool so it doesn't prematurely wear the cylinder walls.

an easy fix for the red wire is to get some black heat shrink tubing and cover it up. there won't be any heat issues.

as far as mods go, i think the main reason some recommend against it till after break-in, is because most people asking this question are new to the game. it's good to understand how these motors work before spending money on hop up parts or digging into the interals.

once you have the basic knowledge needed to keep these motors alive, there's no reason why you can't mod it right out of the box.

i tear down brand new engines, port them, tweak them, build pipes, swap heads, and whatever else i can think of and race them the next day.

if built right, a performance motor requires very little break in. rings will seat immediately and i run full throttle as soon as i get the bike started. i run them a little rich for the first ride, then tune the mixture to whatever works the best for it.

i don't believe in running tank after tank of an overly rich mixture, smoking and sputtering along for weeks. i run them hard and fast on whatever mixture i plan on using for the rest of it's life.

longevity can suffer on a full built race motor, but as long as it makes it thru race day i'm happy with it.

on street bikes, i've modded engines and ran them flat out for hours in their first real rides. my breakin consists of retorqueing the head, checking the plug, making sure nothings loose or gonna fall off, then bombing it down the street.

even a stock engine can be made to run at it's best from day one.

obviously, you're results may vary, and it depends on if you're playing it safe and want a bike to putt around on and get you back and forth everyday, or if you're like me, and you just want to go fast and don't mind sacrificing cheap chinee engines to the gods of destruction now and the...


my first bike was the only one i followed the outdated break in recommendations, and it ran slow and crappy it's whole life.

Me Too.
I'm easy on the motor for the first couple of laps while I'm retorqueing it/ Tunning it.
Then let's see what she'll do.
But do keep an eye on the temp as she may run a little hotter as the rings bed.
If your motor was put together poorly in China, no amount of 'Break in' will make it better.
But it may run a little better after a tank or two.
Personaly if a motor don't run right/can't be tuned right, pull it down, find out why.

2door said:

If you're experienced, know what the results might be with a certain modification or part, then go for it. But as for offering advice to a new builder, I say keep it simple until you have some miles under your belt.

Tom

Click to expand...

Well said, Tom.

If you're new to motorised bikes, go in small steps.. if you've already got one or two behind you you probably have the experience to mod and adjust before the first start-up.

The first two I put together are pretty 'standard' except of the 'Speed NT' carb on my beast and the non-stock drive sprockets on the rear wheels. The cruiser woke up for the first time with expansion chamber leading to muffler, speed carb, piston skirt cut on the intake side and a few other things. Granted, it was a b*tch and blew the head gasket every time for the first four or five starts, but I got it sorted out.

I'm giving my newest motor every mod I can afford from the start, If it doesn't pull wheelies, in the first tank of juice, I'll probably pull it apart and try and fix the 'problem'.
If I damage a piston and barrel along the way, it costs less than $100 to get all the bits you need to rebuild the motor, Don't be afraid to get the most out of one of these motors,
If you have the skill to do it, you'll do it even better next time, There 'cheap fun'.
And I understand that there are others that are happy with there standard bikes, but they're probably not reading this.
I understand that some do not have the 'ability's/tooling' to do what others do, others don't have the time.
I believe the best thing to do, once you've had a Ht for a bit, Is build another!
Start from scratch, do a bit of research, find a 'better' motor, and build it up to suit what you want it to do.
We're not all looking for the 'fastest' bike,
50Mph on a push bike is fast enough for me.
I've done it, I'll do it again, but not everyday.
When I build a motor, I run it for a few hours, then lift the head, quick inspection and torque it down again, tells me if my piston is getting to hot, ight amount of oil, and if the rings and barrel are bedding in nice. Then I take her out and strap **** out of her.
But I couldn't care the least bit of getting 3000 Miles out of the motor, she'll be 'back in the shop for upgrades' before then.

I concur with the OG's