in need of strong wheels....

Your weight? Spoke count? Axle configuration? Brake configuration? DETAILS man!

First thing I will recommend is front suspension. No matter what size head tube you have, there is a suspension fork out there that will fit it. It will not only make your ride much more comfortable, it will also absorb shocks that would otherwise be transmitted to the frame and wheels. The second thing I will recommend is to find a rear wheel with 12g spokes or better. A steel rim is fine as long as it has strong spokes.

Not intending this to come across as 'Captain Obvious', but if you're having that much problem with warping, I'd try to avoid the big potholes...........

I've got some extra Huffy wheels that are 12ga spoked......rear coaster is minus the axle and 'guts' (were toasted). I'd be willing to ship for shipping costs. They are red, stainless spokes, with 26X2.35 "Big Daddy" tires. Just an offer.

When you say. "Destroyed". What exactly is happening to the wheels?

heavier gauge spokes and a clamshell adaptor are my advice.
if your frame allows it get a wheel with a wider thicker tire as well, keep it at the low end of the recomended PSI.

whatever stresses are being placed on the wheen by the road is being made worse by the extra strain the engine is applying to the wheel. by the sounds of things a pedal bike may be having some issue with it's wheels on these roads you are on (my tiny bit of experience driving through BC tells me that the roads other than the trans canada highway don't get very much attention at all) you probably will have to invest in some really heavy duty components for your bike in order to get any lifetime out of it. if money was no object I would suggest purchacing the heaviest duty widest hub you can find with the most spoke holes available, do the same with your rim. then lace it with spokes so heavy you have to drill out the hub to fit them. after doing that take your rag-joint and burn it (don't breathe this) and use a clamshell adaptor or a direct mount to the hub via the disc-brake mount.
basically get yourself a bullet proof rear wheel and make sure your driveline is not attached through the spokes.
adding suspension the the bike (front fork and/or sprung seat) will help somewhat too. basically anything to get the rear wheel resisting impacts and forces better or recieving less of said forces is a good idea. it may be cheeper to buy a clamshell adaptor and a sprung seat than to go full-on rebuild of the rear wheel, and an all-points attack is never a bad idea with this sort of issue.

just before I hit the submit button, one last little thing: inspect your bike for tureness if you lost a few wheels on this frame you may have slightly bent it and if so you will be having even more unwanted forces applied to the rear wheel wheel. not sure how simple a fix that would be, but also if that was the root cause of your issue you wouldn't need to inspect it that closely so you are probably good for this, just thought I'd mention it.

A beefy wheel and spokes are the way to go. And I can tell you that a good sprung seat makes a difference. I use a Selle Royal Drifter and it's comfy and has nice springs.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/sb4jw.nuvx9/v/vspfiles/photos/7765059370765-2.jpg?1321453443


also, Legwon, I sent you a pm

Worksman wheels might be a good choice for you....start busting those and you done some brutal riding

I know it's the rear wheel you're having problems with, but a front suspension will still help.

http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-220
This with an adapter will fix the prob forever. Good Luck to you!

I would agree that indented rims with recessed spoke holes are the strongest, however I would say that they are only necessary for certain applications when it comes to motorized bicycles, and in most cases I would say that they are over kill. Steel bicycle rims with heavy gauge spokes and strong hubs will be sufficient for many riders average daily use. In the case of the OP, it might be worthwhile for him to look into, since it seems that none of the other suggestions that have been given have satisfied him. Those type of rims are heavy due to their construction and I would also imagine they are relatively expensive to manufacture, thus expensive to buy. This is another example of an expensive solution that is unnecessary for the average hobbyists. Racers and others who are building heavy duty bikes or riding in extreme conditions may want to consider such a rim. Though mags are another option that are stronger than most spoked wheels, and I would recommend a mag wheel before a solid steel one, due to weight concerns and the mag wheel most likely being less expensive. For example, I am pushing about 4 horses and 3.5 ft/lbs of torque. I have chosen to build my own wheels, using a 130mm dirtbike drum in front and a 90mm moped drum in rear, both laced to 24" steel bicycle rims with 11g spokes. I am quite confident that for my application, these wheels will be strong enough. They are a bit on the hefty side, but not too heavy for the engine's power and since I am gearing the pedal side as low as possible, I believe that I should be able to pedal them easily enough when necessary. They are still lighter than a motorcycle rim, yet strong enough with the 11g spokes for my application. They are also 24" rims, so the spokes are shorter, making them even stronger yet. A friend of mine had a worksman steel front wheel with 10g spokes and a 90mm drum in front, and he rode quite hard over bumps a lot. After two years, that rim was still arrow straight even with the abuse he put it through. My personal advice to the op is to build his own wheels, as he can choose the rim and hub, and is likely to save money over purchasing a built wheel of the caliper he requires. Its exactly why I chose to build my own, not to mention better brakes, better axles, better bearings, better stronger components overall really, than any built bicycle wheel currently available.

Go with the Worksman steel rims. In the bike taxi industry, there are two standard types of wheels: Alex DM24 48 spoke wheel with 14g spokes, and WM steel rims with 36 heavy duty spokes. The smaller bikes use the 48's and I've seen a few of those taco.. had to tow one guy back to the shop cause the idiot put a 48 spoke front wheel on his monster bike in a hurry (bigger than the one pictured). I've never taco'ed a wheel but have broken several spokes on 48h wheels. Bikes equipped with three WM steel rims have been known to carry close to 2000lbs without problems. Like this one: 26" WM wheels with front WM drum.

Also, try going with a 24" rim and fat tires. Stronger wheel and more tire suspension.

Worksman wheels were already recommended to him, he shot them down. He doesn't believe they can stand up to the way he pedals, because he believes that the way he pedals is harder on his wheels then the motor. I'm personally a bit skeptical of that idea, but whatever. So far, none of the recommendations given seem to satisfy his needs. The only other option is to either use motorcycle rims, or build his own.