Idle problems
- Thread starter BeeRhodesRozay
- Start date
Hello BeeRhodesRozay, welcome to motorbicycling.com glad you joined us. Can you be a little more specific? Does it idle at all? Does it idle too fast?
Have csn Carb everytime I stop and hold da clutch idles out? NOW I HAVE AN BIGGER ISSUE : Early today was riding and run out of gas. Mah was so happy because i completed break in cycle. So I fill up with 4oz of 2cycle oil in 1 gallon of gas instead of 8oz oil for break n. TEST Drove and strugglish like never b4 . Throttle I can turn it all the way back &only due 10mph and motor PuD -pud. Now my bike doesn't work. Only 100 MILES I'M PISSED. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASe?
It's really hard to give exact advice on what is wrong not being able to see the motor in person, best thing for you to do is familiarize yourself with your machine and make sure all of the basic checks have been done....
On the CNS carb, first of all it needs to be seated and sealed on the intake really well or you will have an air leak. Take a look inside the neck of the carb (where it slides onto the intake), there should be a black rubber seal down at the end. Pull it out, see how it is formed to fit over the end of the intake tube and inside the throat of the carb. When you install the carb, keep what you have just learned in mind, push the carb onto the intake until it reaches the end, then wiggle it around a little while pressing until the intake seats that little bit extra inside the seal. Now take the slack out of the mounting screw, then while putting the final few turns on the screw that holds the carb in place push the carb firmly onto the intake (to make sure it is sealing the junction of intake and carb with the rubber grommet). That method has always worked for me, I have never needed any sealer to prevent air leaks.
Now we have to assume the basics, like you have tried adjusting the idle screw position to set a proper idle? Also, your cable routing can cause idle problems if they are bound too tight or have sharp bends. If the cables drag the choke and throttle can vary with the handlebar position and/or not return fully at times, the clutch cable hanging can also cause idle problems because drag from the motor may vary. You should shoot some light weight oil down the inside of the cable housing to help them slide freely, and make sure you have smooth sweeping curves in them rather than sharp bends. I upgraded the cables on my bike to cables that work more smoothly (from a good bike store) and my idle is very stable and set very low (coasting down a hill I cant even tell the motor is running until I stop). You also need to make sure there is no crap in your fuel. The tanks generally have lots of debris in them that can clog the jets real easy. You need to clean the tank and it is best to run an inline fuel filter as well.
Now, basic adjustments, air leaks and cabling aside, if you still have idle issues then you need to determine what condition you're dealing with. The CNS carb has 3 jets, the main jet, the Enrichment jet (choke), and the IDLE jet. The idle jet is TINY, it clogs easily. You should pop open the carb and clean the jets, use a very thin wire to push through all the jets (do NOT force a wire through, it should be small enough to go through easily) After you've cleaned the jets (specially the idle jet) put her back on and see if she idles now.... I started out without an inline filter, even though I cleaned my tank well and ran the filter in the fuel valve, my idle jet clogged right away and I couldn't get a solid idle. Once cleaned the idle was great, with the inline filter it has remained steady.
Beyond that were are talking about tuning the carb to your motor and atmosphere, I think I will stop here and let you digest the above, cover the basics and if you still need to tune the carb post back and we will help you.
I wrote a thread about tuning my CNS carb (V2 with the red plastic air filter, which version do you have by the way???) Check out that thread here http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=32736&highlight=cns+carb+working+great if you want to learn more about the CNS carb and how I tuned mine....
Good luck...
PS In my experience when the choke is on the motor doesn't like to idle, the choke does help it run stronger when cold, but idle is hard to achieve with the choke on. Also, depending on the angle your carb is mounted you may need to do a float adjustment. That would be my first stop if you need to do further tuning to your carb.
On the CNS carb, first of all it needs to be seated and sealed on the intake really well or you will have an air leak. Take a look inside the neck of the carb (where it slides onto the intake), there should be a black rubber seal down at the end. Pull it out, see how it is formed to fit over the end of the intake tube and inside the throat of the carb. When you install the carb, keep what you have just learned in mind, push the carb onto the intake until it reaches the end, then wiggle it around a little while pressing until the intake seats that little bit extra inside the seal. Now take the slack out of the mounting screw, then while putting the final few turns on the screw that holds the carb in place push the carb firmly onto the intake (to make sure it is sealing the junction of intake and carb with the rubber grommet). That method has always worked for me, I have never needed any sealer to prevent air leaks.
Now we have to assume the basics, like you have tried adjusting the idle screw position to set a proper idle? Also, your cable routing can cause idle problems if they are bound too tight or have sharp bends. If the cables drag the choke and throttle can vary with the handlebar position and/or not return fully at times, the clutch cable hanging can also cause idle problems because drag from the motor may vary. You should shoot some light weight oil down the inside of the cable housing to help them slide freely, and make sure you have smooth sweeping curves in them rather than sharp bends. I upgraded the cables on my bike to cables that work more smoothly (from a good bike store) and my idle is very stable and set very low (coasting down a hill I cant even tell the motor is running until I stop). You also need to make sure there is no crap in your fuel. The tanks generally have lots of debris in them that can clog the jets real easy. You need to clean the tank and it is best to run an inline fuel filter as well.
Now, basic adjustments, air leaks and cabling aside, if you still have idle issues then you need to determine what condition you're dealing with. The CNS carb has 3 jets, the main jet, the Enrichment jet (choke), and the IDLE jet. The idle jet is TINY, it clogs easily. You should pop open the carb and clean the jets, use a very thin wire to push through all the jets (do NOT force a wire through, it should be small enough to go through easily) After you've cleaned the jets (specially the idle jet) put her back on and see if she idles now.... I started out without an inline filter, even though I cleaned my tank well and ran the filter in the fuel valve, my idle jet clogged right away and I couldn't get a solid idle. Once cleaned the idle was great, with the inline filter it has remained steady.
Beyond that were are talking about tuning the carb to your motor and atmosphere, I think I will stop here and let you digest the above, cover the basics and if you still need to tune the carb post back and we will help you.
I wrote a thread about tuning my CNS carb (V2 with the red plastic air filter, which version do you have by the way???) Check out that thread here http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=32736&highlight=cns+carb+working+great if you want to learn more about the CNS carb and how I tuned mine....
Good luck...
PS In my experience when the choke is on the motor doesn't like to idle, the choke does help it run stronger when cold, but idle is hard to achieve with the choke on. Also, depending on the angle your carb is mounted you may need to do a float adjustment. That would be my first stop if you need to do further tuning to your carb.
