Most times a problem has the simplest solution. Often times, those problems can be a constant headache if you don't know what you're looking for. This thread is a quick maintenance checklist of small things that take only a few dollars and 10-15 minutes (at most) to ease your ride.
For idling and vibrations:
1) If your idle is a little higher than you'd expect, try adjusting your idle adjuster screw (on the carburetor, naturally) counter-clockwise to loosen it. This will decrease the amount of air/fuel mix going to the engine and slow your idle down. NOTE: "Air/fuel mix" at this point is not referring to the ratio of air-to-fuel, but *air AND fuel*. For adjustment of air-to-fuel, you adjust the e-clamp setting or change jets.
2) If your idle is low, tighten your idle adjuster screw to increase the amount of air/fuel mix, naturally. NOTE: "Air/fuel mix" at this point is not referring to the ratio of air-to-fuel, but *air AND fuel*. For adjustment of air-to-fuel, you adjust the e-clamp setting or change jets.
3) Check your throttle cable connection to the motor. Sometimes the cable housing can work its way on top of the port between the fastener and the carb. This increases the tension on the cable, causing it to rev the engine as if you were increasing the throttle. Simply pop it back into place and adjust the fitting by twisting it either up or down.
4) Check your air intake filter by removing the housing and pulling it out. Make sure it is free from debris and is not oversaturated with gunk. This would be a good time to blast the filter and the housing with compressed air and.or soak it in a water-based cleaning agent. Let the filter soak for a few minutes then dry it with a rag or paper towel. NOTE: It would also be wise to spray the manifold face as well.
5) Check to make sure your clutch cable has the correct tension on it. Obviously, too little and the motor will not allow the chain to move. Too much, and the motor won't engage properly and you'll have a **** of a time trying to shut it down (pinch the fuel line if need be or engage the choke). In case you don't know, you can adjust the cable's tension by loosening the fastener on the the pivoting arm and pulling the cable through or letting more slack, depending on your needs. It is very hard to hold the cable at the tension you need to with your bare hands, so use a pair of pliers (locking preferred, to keep two hands free) and tighten the fastener to hold the cable in place. Be very careful when you're tightening the fastener - the stock screw is rather cheap and the head can snap right off if you apply too much pressure! (Did this with mine...)
6) Obviously, make sure your choke is not engaged when it does not need to be.
For inconsistent idle:
1) Once again, check to make sure your carburetor is clear of all debris and the filter is not gunky.
2) Make sure the petcock is fully open while riding (the switch should point in the direction of the connected line).
3) Be sure the fuel line does not have any sediment in it from the gas tank and is free of any pinching. There should ALWAYS be a free flow from the tank to the engine.
4) Take a quick look and see if there is any residue on your spark plug by removing the connection. Remember to place the connector back on the plug!
5) A headache of a problem can develop when your engine is unbalanced. Make sure the chain is not rubbing against anything and is running straight into the motor. It should naturally be more off to the right than "centered", but still have a few millimeters of clearance. Some have found that using lead sheets on the engine mounts allow for a more secure fit. I have not done this myself, but there are a few threads here in Trouble Shooting where you can learn more about this practice.
6) Over time, the chain tensioner can wear down. This causes unwanted slack in the chain and the motor to work even harder, as well as risk having your chain become loose to the point where it can catch on something and break while in motion! Check to make sure the chain is fairly loose (about 1 to 1.5 inches of play, center-to-center) and adjust the tensioner if needed by loosening the bolt (which should be pretty hard to do). Once it's loosened so you can move the tensioner, use your left hand to hold it in place while you get the correct tension. Keep the enough pressure on it while you tighten it so it doesn't slide back down. Also, it might be good to rotate the wheel of the tensioner around, since the chain has been wearing down on one area for quite some time. Once set, tighten the bolt for the tensioner as tight as you can get it without breaking an arm or a wrench. NOTE: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CHAIN, OR IT *WILL* BREAK!!
7) Make sure you're running a good oil/fuel mix. Standard is 24:1. But the motor's age, the weight of the bike, and depending on your climate, you may find that running higher or lower is more efficient. Running too much oil in a mix can make idle a little "sputtery", and you will lose much of your mid-high end performance.
8) Always check your tire pressure, too!
Some of these suggestions are no-brainers, but sometimes it's good to go through a quick checklist of small issues before causing a bigger mess than necessary.
Have fun and safe riding!
---Lewk
For idling and vibrations:
1) If your idle is a little higher than you'd expect, try adjusting your idle adjuster screw (on the carburetor, naturally) counter-clockwise to loosen it. This will decrease the amount of air/fuel mix going to the engine and slow your idle down. NOTE: "Air/fuel mix" at this point is not referring to the ratio of air-to-fuel, but *air AND fuel*. For adjustment of air-to-fuel, you adjust the e-clamp setting or change jets.
2) If your idle is low, tighten your idle adjuster screw to increase the amount of air/fuel mix, naturally. NOTE: "Air/fuel mix" at this point is not referring to the ratio of air-to-fuel, but *air AND fuel*. For adjustment of air-to-fuel, you adjust the e-clamp setting or change jets.
3) Check your throttle cable connection to the motor. Sometimes the cable housing can work its way on top of the port between the fastener and the carb. This increases the tension on the cable, causing it to rev the engine as if you were increasing the throttle. Simply pop it back into place and adjust the fitting by twisting it either up or down.
4) Check your air intake filter by removing the housing and pulling it out. Make sure it is free from debris and is not oversaturated with gunk. This would be a good time to blast the filter and the housing with compressed air and.or soak it in a water-based cleaning agent. Let the filter soak for a few minutes then dry it with a rag or paper towel. NOTE: It would also be wise to spray the manifold face as well.
5) Check to make sure your clutch cable has the correct tension on it. Obviously, too little and the motor will not allow the chain to move. Too much, and the motor won't engage properly and you'll have a **** of a time trying to shut it down (pinch the fuel line if need be or engage the choke). In case you don't know, you can adjust the cable's tension by loosening the fastener on the the pivoting arm and pulling the cable through or letting more slack, depending on your needs. It is very hard to hold the cable at the tension you need to with your bare hands, so use a pair of pliers (locking preferred, to keep two hands free) and tighten the fastener to hold the cable in place. Be very careful when you're tightening the fastener - the stock screw is rather cheap and the head can snap right off if you apply too much pressure! (Did this with mine...)
6) Obviously, make sure your choke is not engaged when it does not need to be.
For inconsistent idle:
1) Once again, check to make sure your carburetor is clear of all debris and the filter is not gunky.
2) Make sure the petcock is fully open while riding (the switch should point in the direction of the connected line).
3) Be sure the fuel line does not have any sediment in it from the gas tank and is free of any pinching. There should ALWAYS be a free flow from the tank to the engine.
4) Take a quick look and see if there is any residue on your spark plug by removing the connection. Remember to place the connector back on the plug!
5) A headache of a problem can develop when your engine is unbalanced. Make sure the chain is not rubbing against anything and is running straight into the motor. It should naturally be more off to the right than "centered", but still have a few millimeters of clearance. Some have found that using lead sheets on the engine mounts allow for a more secure fit. I have not done this myself, but there are a few threads here in Trouble Shooting where you can learn more about this practice.
6) Over time, the chain tensioner can wear down. This causes unwanted slack in the chain and the motor to work even harder, as well as risk having your chain become loose to the point where it can catch on something and break while in motion! Check to make sure the chain is fairly loose (about 1 to 1.5 inches of play, center-to-center) and adjust the tensioner if needed by loosening the bolt (which should be pretty hard to do). Once it's loosened so you can move the tensioner, use your left hand to hold it in place while you get the correct tension. Keep the enough pressure on it while you tighten it so it doesn't slide back down. Also, it might be good to rotate the wheel of the tensioner around, since the chain has been wearing down on one area for quite some time. Once set, tighten the bolt for the tensioner as tight as you can get it without breaking an arm or a wrench. NOTE: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CHAIN, OR IT *WILL* BREAK!!
7) Make sure you're running a good oil/fuel mix. Standard is 24:1. But the motor's age, the weight of the bike, and depending on your climate, you may find that running higher or lower is more efficient. Running too much oil in a mix can make idle a little "sputtery", and you will lose much of your mid-high end performance.
8) Always check your tire pressure, too!
Some of these suggestions are no-brainers, but sometimes it's good to go through a quick checklist of small issues before causing a bigger mess than necessary.
Have fun and safe riding!
---Lewk
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