i have a genesis gx7 and i got a Dax f80 kit and i guess the GX7 seat down tube is to thick and the rear mount wont fit snug. the GX7 is at my LBS getting a once over before i install the engine so i cant take a picture. but i have another bike with a thick tube to somewhat show you what im talking about. now my question is is this ok to mount that way or not
Rear engine mount to small
- Thread starter Ecthelion
- Start date
I agree.
And no, you can't mount it that way. You're going to want that saddle to fit the tubing snug with no gaps. Those edges will wear into the frame very quickly if you mount it like the photo shows. A sanding drum the same diameter of your tubing should get you very close. If you happen to know a machinist he could do that job easily with a mill. But, you can remove enough material with hand tools too. I think you'll be surprised at how little material you'd actually have to remove to get the mount to fit.
Tom
This is what I have always done. Looks like I have done a few worse then your situation Ecthelion without any problems.
The only time I have seen a problem is when one side is over torqued then the other and causes the mount to split. But I have seen that with mounts that had no material removed as well.
Another way to get a near perfect fit would be to get it close with a sanding drum then get some stick on DA sanding discs and stick one onto the frame tubing and run the mount over the sanding disc stuck to the frame tube. This will get the fit near perfect with little effort. A solid billet mount would do a lot better here if you can get one. Then rough cut it almost to size then finish with the sanding disc stuck to the frame tube. Of course, the easiest way to do it would be to have it milled to the right diameter, but this can be done at home with a certain amount of effort.
I had to do this to a front mount in order to match the frame angle as well as shape and size so the engine would fit more secure in my bike. I used a die grinder and a 1" diameter carbide rotary file to do most the cutting involved with the angle change but once the fit was close it was time to stick a sanding disc on the frame and do the last part manually. End result was a LOT less vibration and a much more secure mount.
I had to do this to a front mount in order to match the frame angle as well as shape and size so the engine would fit more secure in my bike. I used a die grinder and a 1" diameter carbide rotary file to do most the cutting involved with the angle change but once the fit was close it was time to stick a sanding disc on the frame and do the last part manually. End result was a LOT less vibration and a much more secure mount.
