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Pre-Motorized Bicycle Information. Before you mount that engine to your bicycle frame, you'll want to know if the bike is ready for the engine! Ask our experts here for advice on what will perform well.


OCC Stingray 1st build

Before you mount that engine to your bicycle frame, you'll want to know if the bike is ready for the engine! Ask our experts here for advice on what will perform well.


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  #11  
Old 10-06-2011, 03:48 PM
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Paul491 Paul491 is offline
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

Hello, I'm back! Yikes! I can't believe it's been almost a year...

I recently ordered and received an OCC Chopper Build Out Package With 70cc Motor from livefastmotors.com It seems like a well thought-out and complete kit. The staff has been helpful and responsive. Great support.
So far I have attached the rear sprocket adaptor with sprocket, engine & mounting bracket, chain and tensioner and attached the clutch lever & cable to the clutch arm on the engine per the instructions.
Observation: It seems the Alum. clutch lever does not have enough draw to fully disengage the clutch. If I re-adjust the cable to disengage the clutch, there is still a lot of tension on the cable and the engine clutch lever is not at rest in the fully engaged position. It appears the clutch is not being allowed to engage with full spring pressure. Is this typical? If this is the case, I guess I'll be burning up a lot of clutches...
Other than this minor glitch, I'll be livin' a dream workin' on my first build! Any comments or suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2011, 06:03 PM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

The clutch cables are really stiff out of the box. A lot of times it take a bit for things to loosten up to where it doesn't(or is it that your hand gets stronger lol). Did you grease the cable? That can help a lot. One of the members here has a pulley mod that really helps to make the clutch easier to opporate.

The bike I have been working on is a LA Cycles BigMo and I have a Morini motor to put on it, don't know if its going to happen, though. Only way to fit it would mean cutting and lengthening the 3 main tubes 6-8 inches.
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2011, 10:42 PM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

Hey Dave,

It appears the lever doesn't have enough mechanical pull to disengage the clutch. Does the additional pulley add or reduce the amount of cable travel? I need to increase the travel (ie the physical distance the clutch arm actually moves).

Your build sound interesting. How about some pics! :O)

Cheers!
Paul
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  #14  
Old 10-09-2011, 06:10 AM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

It might be that your star nut on the clutch needs adjusted. Take the clutch cover off, the large geared disk is the clutch. In the middle of the clutch is the star nut held in place with a screw. Remove the screw and advance the star 2 notches, put the screw back in and test it out. That might be all you need, test it out to see and let us know
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2012, 12:28 AM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

Hello all! Wow, it's hard to believe it's been over five months... and I'm
still tinkering...

Thanks Dave for the suggestion on my clutch issue.
Since my last post I've had a growing concern about brakes... To be on
the safe side, I ordered a heavy duty 24" front wheel with a drum brake
from Worksman Bicycles.
I now realize, Worksman mounts their wheel with the brake
arm bolted to the L/H side of their fork as pictured...

Because the OCC fork tubes have larger diameters, the brake bracket
won't clear on the L/H side. It appears at this point, the simplest way to
install this wheel on the OCC chopper fork is with the brake arm bolted on the
R/H side as seen in the second picture...

Question 1: Is the Worksman drum brake designed to work in either direction?

Question 2: If the wheel/brake is installed “backwards” will it still work safely
and be as durable?
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Last edited by Paul491; 03-24-2012 at 12:31 AM.
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  #16  
Old 03-25-2012, 11:12 AM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

Well, a friend with a welder is stopping by today... I guess I'll have him weld tabs on both sides of my fork until I figure out which side is best to mount the brake arm? Ideas? Suggestions? Anyone?
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  #17  
Old 03-27-2012, 12:52 AM
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Default Re: OCC Stingray 1st build

okay, I've re-evaluated the brake situation and decided to modify the existing cable housing tab on the brake arm that attaches to the fork. I decided to drill through the spot weld and remove the tab. Now, I'll fabricate a new bracket and attach it to the brake arm in the opposite direction allowing the arm to be mounted in the original direction on the L/H side of the fork. This way it will function as designed. Simple. All is well in the kingdom.

Left alone long enough, it appears one can arrive at the simplest solution by pure desperate deduction. Elementary, Watson... It just takes a little skill and a bit of cunning to find the easiest way to a sound functional mod.

Last edited by Paul491; 03-27-2012 at 12:55 AM.
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