After taking it a part I found the rubbing noise, like you said the "Housing", I see that at idle and when the housing is coming to a stop it is rubbing on one of the pads or whatever they are called that move outward in the housing. I suppose with wear it will smooth itself out.Regarding the CC noise, the housing on these things are not perfectly round and does wobble. Mine use to make more noise but now it seems smoother. As long as you have the CC deep inside and tighten, you should be ok. I was trying to find a way to dampen the noise on the cover but I don't think it's possible unless you use really thin material.
I understand what your talking about, but how do you go about disassembling the clutch so that the gear stays on the shaft? What are the steps to take? From what I can see with the cc on I do see grease on the springs. Thanx for the help Rohmell. Its a learning in progress.On some CCs that I have bought, the weight/friction assy. (the part with the spring holding it all together) was easily removed from the rest of the clutch, on some, it just fell off, but on others it held together with a death grip.
I file the rough edges in the egg-shaped hole and the mating surfaces on the bearing shaft so that the the weight/friction assy. is easy to remove once the center screw is removed. This allows easy access to the sprag and bearing surfaces for easy cleaning and lubrication, and also allows you to remove the large replacement cover easily so that you can service the manual clutch.
Doing this allows the bearing shaft with the taper fit to always remain on the crankshaft, so you don't have to keep taking it off and putting it on once it is set to the correct depth so that everything clears the replacement small cover.
No, still not able too. I kept grinding the inside of the CC, but it still doesn't fit. I am worried about grinding it even more, it seems loser than it used to be. I will probably just leave it as is and make a gasket or something to make the cover fit on. But in the meantime, with these super wide cranks, legs are very far away from the spinning CCGeo, are you able to put on the CC cover?
I used a small grinding stone on the Dremel.How did you guys grind the inside of the CC? dremel tool? With what bit, and how long did it take?
Thank you for the pictures, after removing the center bolt, what is the best way to remove the assembly off the sleeve that is now forced on the crankshaft? Is it just a matter trying to wiggle it off?
Cool, thanx, your words and description are fine, I have a better understanding of it all now, Lets go see.Grab the drum and gently rock back and forth, and it should come off, unless you have one of those with the death grip on it.
When you finally get it off, you file a little bit in the egg-shaped hole, then you can test fit the weight/friction assy. onto the sleeve, no need to use the drum for test fitting.
With some of my CC kits, out of the box, you could tilt the bike to the side and the weight/friction assy. would practically fall off into your waiting hand, but of course, due to tolerances and quality control, the fit amongst the parts between various kits will vary greatly from loose to super tight.
When reinstalling the drum, use a turning motion so that the sprag roller bearings find their way into position on the sleeve, and keep your finger on the sprag roller bearing keeper. If you just shove it on, you will see the sprag roller bearing keeper start to lift up, and the bearings might fall out of position, but hopefully the thick Chinese grease will hold them in place.
Once you do it a few times, taking it off and putting it on, you will become more and more comfortable with servicing your CC.
Sometimes things are hard to explain using words, just go ahead and take a look at it, everything should become clear.