Substitute for Lost Baffle?

GoldenMotor.com

VaporKing

New Member
May 15, 2008
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Hi everyone.

Is there abything that I can use as a temporary substitute for a lost baffle? It's just the endcap for the muffller that I need.

Thanks.


:ride:
VaporKing
 

VaporKing

New Member
May 15, 2008
47
0
0
I'm replying to my own question. Is that kind of like both talking to yourself, and answering too? Hmmmmmmm..........

Well anyways, I thought of taking either an 8oz or 12oz pop can, stuffing it with fiberglass insulation, screwwing it onto the old muffler and sealing with high temp copper ATV. Then drilling a couple 0.5 inch holes on the end for venting.

Either that, or just stuffing one half of a 12 oz aluminum pop can with metal screen (with a few pieces of fiberglass balls), securing them into place by running a few long bolts through the bottom, then just screwing the end onto the muffler?

Any better ideas?
 

VOETOM

New Member
Jul 20, 2008
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I have some perforated tube and the right material to pack mufflers with if you want to make your own that works very well and flows a lot of exhaust. [email protected]
Tom Hand
 

VaporKing

New Member
May 15, 2008
47
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0




This is what I have so far. I crumbled-up some pieces of aluminum can and stuffed them into the tailpipe.

My engine mounts rattled-loose, and then wierd things started happening with my engine (muffler baffle rattles-off, choke keeps closing, etc..) I'm still trying to figure out why there was black grease in my engine mount holes on my block. Hopefully, the brake cleaner and q-tips cleaned them out sufficiently eniough for the red locktite to bond. I plan on using the blue locktite on my reataining nuts, so that I may remove the engine later.

Lessons learned: #1) Always have a rock-solid mount! #2) If your noise suppresion fails, immediately inspect the whole engine from the exhaust port to the end of the tailpipe. I assumed that there was an unseeable hole on my pipe somewhere, when in fact, my baffle rattled-off. Wrongly assuming that a hole got punched somewhere on my pipe, I drove-away from my almost brand new baffle. Now it is gone forever..........

When my locktite (engine mounts) dries, I'll give the baffle a test drive. If there is too much blocakge, I'll aireate the crumpled-up pieces with my quarter inch titanium drill bit. If it is not quiet enough, I'll just keep feeding the pipe. Maybe I'll throw some fiberglass insulation in there, if I need to keep modifying.

When satified with the sound, I'll seal the baffle's retaining screw with red locktite.

I got the idea from people who were using beer cans on their RC airplane exhaust ports.

Mr hand: Thanks for your help, I may be contacting you.

Venice Boy: My muffler has an exhaust port interface that is 2cm in diameter. Do you sell this version for $15?

I'll post my results when all the locktite dries.

Sincerely,

VaporKing
 

VaporKing

New Member
May 15, 2008
47
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0
The baffle works.

It took a couple of trials before I reached this point. The first attemps were too noisy, so i just kept-on feeding the pipe.

I get a nice, muffly rumble with resonation and an increase in power. The back-pressure effect (which is the purpose of an expansion chamber) is beneficial, per the Turner two-cycle engine reference posted on this site. For some reason, sound is muffled better when enginre warms-up.

Just crumbled-up some gum-wrapper pieces of aluminum can, and added a couple wads of fiberglass from my basement ceiling.

Still a little on the loud side, but within acceptable paramters. Perhaps the noise is more noticable for inattentive drivers. I may experiment with a smaller exhaust outlet, instead of merely using the convenient mouth-size opening on the Coke can. I'm also going to try stuffing a coulple more fiberglass wads in there, but I would hate to lose the power I have now.

If it starts on fire (currently using 16:1 generic air-cooled oil for break-in), I'll just paint fireballs on on gas tank later on as a remeberance.

VaporKing