Originally Posted by vincent713
Where can I find those fix a flat for bicycles? The ones at Walmart "slime" are for before you ride to prevent from having a flat. I want one that can fix a flat when I'm 10 miles away from home. I have a fear of getting a flat tire out on the road more than having engine issues. I can at least pedal home if it's an engine problem. I'm stuck like chuck with a flat tire
You can push, I initially thought I'd ride on a rear flat, carefully of course. The wheel already had a little annoying egg shape, but handling was real squirrly ao I pushed a mile.
Catch a bus, Allegheney County Port Authority ( our bus service ) has bike racks now on all there busses now, ....after drastically cutting service to reduce losses. Cant really celebrate that.
I'd go with thick tube and kevlar liner. Slime will be a MESS when u get a flat. I had some slime tubes, mustve gotten old maybe but they leaked an oily mess so the tube couldnt be patched.
Where can I find those fix a flat for bicycles? The ones at Walmart "slime" are for before you ride to prevent from having a flat. I want one that can fix a flat when I'm 10 miles away from home. I have a fear of getting a flat tire out on the road more than having engine issues. I can at least pedal home if it's an engine problem. I'm stuck like chuck with a flat tire
You can push, I initially thought I'd ride on a rear flat, carefully of course. The wheel already had a little annoying egg shape, but handling was real squirrly ao I pushed a mile.
Catch a bus, Allegheney County Port Authority ( our bus service ) has bike racks now on all there busses now, ....after drastically cutting service to reduce losses. Cant really celebrate that.
I'd go with thick tube and kevlar liner. Slime will be a MESS when u get a flat. I had some slime tubes, mustve gotten old maybe but they leaked an oily mess so the tube couldnt be patched.
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You could also use the "spark plug" tool that came with the kit. It fits the drive sprocket bolt so insert the chain and use a screwdriver to turn the sprocket.
I haven't tried that yet, I'll give it a look next build. With both the ones I've built so far I haven't taken the cover off that side while threading the chain into place. That alone would probably make the job a bit easier.You could also use the "spark plug" tool that came with the kit. It fits the drive sprocket bolt so insert the chain and use a screwdriver to turn the sprocket.
Thanks for the idea.
I went to Advanced auto and asked the guy working to point me to the direction of the cork style gasket material he asked me what it was for I said I'm using it on my intake manifold and my exhaust manifold. You can not use it on your exhaust manifold .I said OK what ever you say Then the guy says I'm not selling this to you.and takes it back . So the next day I sent my fiance in to get the same stuff I could have easily went to Auto zone but this was personal. So he asked her whats it for she said what? What are you using it for, she said to be honest it isn't any of your business what I'm using it for. Keep in mind this guy is just plain rude we are not rude folks but the way this guy asks "What are you using it on"? If Id a seen the problems coming I'd have said I ran out of cheese , & given him the Mel Gibson Crazy look from L.W.1Guys
When you first get your engine take the time to make good gaskets use the kits gasket as a pattern and use your home made ones. mostly the side covers,intake and exhaust will be the ones to make here's an example.
P.S. been using the same gasket for almost 200 miles now, and Ive had it pretty hot a few times no issues what so ever.
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I would contact advanced auto and let them know that they lost a sale because your use of a gasket material did not agree with the sales man and the sales man refused the sale.
It really does not matter what you use the gasket material for. The sales man is there to help you find what you want/ need, not police the products.
He could have said " I do not recommend this product for that application" and sell it to you anyways, but to refuse a sale is ludicrous! Advanced auto wants to sell things, not employ morons that limit their ability to sell things.
It really does not matter what you use the gasket material for. The sales man is there to help you find what you want/ need, not police the products.
He could have said " I do not recommend this product for that application" and sell it to you anyways, but to refuse a sale is ludicrous! Advanced auto wants to sell things, not employ morons that limit their ability to sell things.
Ok being the penny pinching person I am I came up with a way to dampen the sound similar to the external plastic things Ive seen on various sites. I took an old mouse pad and traced out the diagram of the clutch cover then I cut it out leaving the line I traced + about a 1/2" or material to leave room for the screw holes . I then super glued it onto the cover and away you go . Heat doesn't seem to be an issue & If it did I was planning on cutting out the same pattern on gasket sheet using that as a heat barrier between the mouse pad and the cover but that step wasn't necessary in this particular application . The difference in sound is immediately noticeable & there is a lot more smiling faces in the neighborhood than usual
My cutting wasn't very precise on this one Just a quick "how to" on a spare cover
My cutting wasn't very precise on this one Just a quick "how to" on a spare cover
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Problem:
When i pedal and pop the clutch to start the engine, the back wheel doesn't lock up like it use to. like, when i move the bike slowly with the clutch lever pulled in, the back wheel moves freely, but when i let go(the back wheel USE to lock up(im guessing thats proper working condition cause that always worked for me)) the wheel will semi-lock up but will still spin rather easy. i think it has something to do with the clutch, i've tried re-adjusting the clutch cable and arm but to no avail. If no-one can help me with this, im prolly gonna end up scrappin my engine out
When i pedal and pop the clutch to start the engine, the back wheel doesn't lock up like it use to. like, when i move the bike slowly with the clutch lever pulled in, the back wheel moves freely, but when i let go(the back wheel USE to lock up(im guessing thats proper working condition cause that always worked for me)) the wheel will semi-lock up but will still spin rather easy. i think it has something to do with the clutch, i've tried re-adjusting the clutch cable and arm but to no avail. If no-one can help me with this, im prolly gonna end up scrappin my engine out
It sounds like the flower nut needs to be adjusted.
Also be positive that there is no oil or grease residue anywhere in the clutch assembly. Outer plate, friction pads, inner plate, ect.
If the friction pads are not worn out you can also adjust the internal clutch spring to apply more pressure to the pads when the clutch is engaged (hand lever released).
Readjusting the cable and arm is only "the tip if the iceberg" concerning what you can do with these clutches.
Also be positive that there is no oil or grease residue anywhere in the clutch assembly. Outer plate, friction pads, inner plate, ect.
If the friction pads are not worn out you can also adjust the internal clutch spring to apply more pressure to the pads when the clutch is engaged (hand lever released).
Readjusting the cable and arm is only "the tip if the iceberg" concerning what you can do with these clutches.
Big bir here is an awesome video explaining what gearnut just told you to check also NEVER EVER scrap an engine any one of on here will first try to help you out an keep your interest in the hobby an if then you still decide it isn't for you one of us will gladly buy your motor Here is the video
how to fix a sliping cluch on your 80/66cc bike engine kit - YouTube
How many miles on the motor Big Bird? I'm so glad I stuck with my bike at first when I bought it it was giving me every problem you could think of but being the stubborn Rick I am hehe"
I stuck it out an am now reaping the benefits of my perseverance my motor is running so good right now the other day top speed was 28.7 mph Well I swapped my head around so the plug hole is now in the rear I'm not sure what else i i but the thing runs soo good now hit a top speed of 34.2 mph I must have fixed something else by doing that because I cant see how swapping the head 180 degrees would affect it that much.
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thanks guys, i'll take a look at the video and see what i can do. the engine is fairly new, only put about 2 gallons of gas through it over about a 2 month time so i'd have to say 175-250 miles. one of the head bolts stripped out, so i went through the process of helicoiling the base thread. after i put the kit together the clutch just didn't want to cooperate. a buddy that was helping said that "a piece of a piston ring fell off"? i just got this info yesterday, he didn't bother to tell me at the time. could that have anything to do with my problem?
A broken piston ring will have no effect what so ever on the clutch operation.
However, it will have a negative effect on the engine's performance, especially if the broken piece is still inside the engine. The piston rings are responsible for sealing the piston to the cylinder. If one is missing the compression will be reduced and some of the pressure developed during the combustion cycle will escape past the only remaining ring and result in a loss of power. If a partial ring is left installed on the piston it can rotate around in the piston ring groove of the piston and one of the ends of the ring can get hung up on a cylinder port, doing serious damage to the piston and cylinder. The missing piece, if left inside the engine to float around in the flywheel compartment, can destroy the piston and cylinder as it could eventually work itself up through the transfer ports and get caught between the piston and cylinder. Also it can get trapped in between the flywheels and engine case and chew up all parts involved. Any metal bits ground up in the process can also ruin the crankshaft bearings.
However, it will have a negative effect on the engine's performance, especially if the broken piece is still inside the engine. The piston rings are responsible for sealing the piston to the cylinder. If one is missing the compression will be reduced and some of the pressure developed during the combustion cycle will escape past the only remaining ring and result in a loss of power. If a partial ring is left installed on the piston it can rotate around in the piston ring groove of the piston and one of the ends of the ring can get hung up on a cylinder port, doing serious damage to the piston and cylinder. The missing piece, if left inside the engine to float around in the flywheel compartment, can destroy the piston and cylinder as it could eventually work itself up through the transfer ports and get caught between the piston and cylinder. Also it can get trapped in between the flywheels and engine case and chew up all parts involved. Any metal bits ground up in the process can also ruin the crankshaft bearings.
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Had some questions on chains and got a lot of help. During my search for answers this table explained alot. Thought I'd share.
Motorcycle Primary and Secondary Drive Chains Explained
Motorcycle Primary and Secondary Drive Chains Explained
chopper frame bottom frame rail is paper thin.
when welding it (cracked) use a stitch pattern with a pulsing trigger on the wire feed....seems to be holding...of course the weld is probably stronger then the frame itself
when welding it (cracked) use a stitch pattern with a pulsing trigger on the wire feed....seems to be holding...of course the weld is probably stronger then the frame itself
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For all of the motorcycles that I own, and I have many, the front wheel brake lever is on the right handle grip with the throttle. On my Huffy Stone Mountain bicycle, the front wheel brake lever is on the left handle grip, with the clutch lever for the little bicycle engine. I moved this cable to the right-hand lever and removed the left-hand brake lever as I do not have a rear brake caliper-it was gone from the bike when it was given to me. I find the front wheel brake to be more than efficent and makes clutching so much easier! This way, when holding the bicycle on a grade or otherwise, it is just natural for me to use the front wheel brake.
I'm more accustomed to the bicycle layout, left side = front brake. A friend of mine flipped over the bars attempting to pull clutch. First time I felt bad, but twice??? I still felt it but sheez. I dont have a cure for stupidity. I cant see the dual pull as feasable, too tedious an adjustment to get the right pull front and rear.
Some love dual brake levers, some hate them. I have them installed in a couple of bikes, and am happy with them. Setting them up is no harder than setting up a single lever. Mine are fine tuned to stop the back wheel first. Under full pressure on the lever the back wheel won't turn and the front just barely will when pushing down and forward on the handlebars. It only takes a few minutes to get them set right. (And it beats getting smacked in the face by the road
).Which ever way you go, just check and see if you have to work with a minimum stopping distance for a motorized bicycle/scooter/whatever in your area. The 66cc motor is in the grey areas of the laws quite often, but where I live I have to be able to stop on a powered bicycle in 9m from 30 KPH (30 feet from 18MPH).
