1" threaded monarch springer to gt2 frame

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sissytrikerider

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Jun 25, 2011
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buffalo
as im sure this will work with any 1" threaded fork with any other bicycle using the 1 1/8" zero stack (zs) head set as in my skyhawk gt2as frame and I would assume any variant of this frame. I searched various possibilities for the correct headset or shim or what ever it may be. the problem is that the hole in the bearing cup provided with the bike for the fork to pass through is to big. The correct head set according to the standardized headset identification system [s.h.i.s] would be is a zs44/25.4-zs44/26 is not available. The 1" threaded fork (which was standard until someone decided to make it not) used an exposed bearing cup (ec). now some manufactures use the same cup size for the 1 1/8" and 1" headsets and just the race which presses into the frame varies. My choice of headset (1") was by crane creek and is a sealed set up using a o-ring to keep out the crud and uses the 1 1/8" ball bearing set up so I came up with this inexpensive fix to share with the MB gang.

1- source a piece of 1in copper tubing and a couple of 1in copper couplings. with no stops. Now I happen to be a proud licensed non-union (yup I went there) plumber and happen to have abundance of worthless scrap copper tubing on hand to select from (please buy more china bike stuff and support your china economy to get them thriving again and bring the price of scrap up)
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2-gather tools required. I used air tools, one with a sanding drum on an arbor from hf, one with a deburing bit, your 1" head set of choice, the bearing cups from the bike (one in pic but you will need both ) and solder tools. (brushes, torch, sand tape ect)
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3-open the hole in the bearing cups so that the copper coupling fits sung through the hole with the sanding drum. this did not take much in my case as the sizes were very close, but take your time and be sure to take "material off" all around the opening to keep the end result centered.
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4- ream any edge from the inside of the copper pipe from your method of cutting, in my case was from a tubing cutter. solder one coupling flush to the end of the tubing, I soldered one end, the end away from the edge of the pipe.
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sissytrikerider

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Jun 25, 2011
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buffalo
5- determine the overall length you need between the inner bottom edge of the bearing cups where the bearings rest in the cups. you want the cups over the copper. I put the cups into the frame took a measurement marked the copper and put it in the frame to confirm. cut the tubing, ream and solder as before.
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6- now assemble your forks. first put on the crown race seat ( mine has a green o-ring) and then you new copper shim and continue as normal with fork assembly. don't forget to pack them bearings good with some good grease.
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now if you happen to make your "shim" to long it will be easy to file, grind ect to get a good fit, don't make it to short as you cant add lol.
the idea here is that the copper will wear before the steel and possibly after many many many miles down the road you may need to make a new one. but at say $12 in material and 20 mins of your time I think you get the idea..flg.
 

sissytrikerider

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Jun 25, 2011
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buffalo
Thanks motomagz. I dont know if it fits in this catorgy but it is a springer front end after all . Hopefully some manufacture starts making a bearing cup that solves this problem. From the looks of the cup i would guess they are pressed/stamped and not machined.
 

sissytrikerider

New Member
Jun 25, 2011
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buffalo
I havnt put many miles on this bike yet, (30 so far). Im having some tuning issues im working out. The adaptors they sell work for a exposed cup not a zero stack which the gt2a frame uses. (As explained in the first part of write up). I got them with the forks and scratched my head untill i researched about headsets. Im now edgeamaycated lol