I'm a rich man
- Thread starter biknut
- Start date
That deep six is in my future. after I sell about ten more bikes I'm gonna ride that thing to school and people are gonna gawk at me and ask how on earth? where did you get it? and how much? I gotta figure out a way to make it for $1500 MSRP.
In the real world the Atomic BB gets as much attention as Stunner, but from different types of people. Non riders seem to prefer stunner, but Harley riders seem to like the Atomic BB slightly more. Everyone laughs at Black Sheep, but it doesn't care.
hey biknut, is that red head on there spaypainted or what? I'm looking to do a color-scheme to one of my engines, all blue with all the edges black and faded into the blue center. I don't remember if oriely had 1200 degree paint that was any other color. I'm sure they had the 500 degree paint in other colors, just not too sure on 1200. also, did you have to prime the engine? Or should i just douse it in rubbing alcohol?
The red is VHT Flame Proof header ceramic paint. 1300-2000 degree f. Really it's kind of overkill, and takes 7 days to cure. I didn't do any prep work except clean the head with electrical spray cleaner.
Dupli-Color Engine Enamel works just as well, and it's only 500 degree f. That's what I used on Stunner.
the best place to buy the electrical cleaner is walmart. It comes in a red can.
I've used plain old spray paint on engines, both 2 and 4 stroke and never had any heat issues. I like to match the engine to the bike color and I've used DupliColor, Krylon, Rustoleum and model airplane paint and none of them have been affected by engine heat. That includes the area near the exhaust port/ pipe flange.
I think engine temperature is overrated. They just don't get that hot to need special high-temp paint.
Tom
I think engine temperature is overrated. They just don't get that hot to need special high-temp paint.
Tom
I've done the same as you mentioned here Tom, my results were the same as yours, never had any of it burn off an engine.
I do like to use the engine paint or rattle can Lacquer though if I know it will ever get sprayed with any type of chemicals for cleaning off oil and gunk, some of the standard paints will curl up like you put paint stripper on them when chemicals like carb cleaner or brake cleaner get on them and that really sucks when you ruin a good paint job just trying to clean something off.....
Seen many engines cleaned well and sprayed with Acrylic Enamel or Alkyd Enamel Automotive or Industrial Farm type paints, they stay nice and shiny and nothing seems to effect them a bit.
Tractor Supply has a great selection of Alkyd Enamel paint in rattle cans and in quarts that can be reduced and a little hardener added to them for a really nice glossy paint job if one wanted to go that route, personally even though I have several spray guns I just go the easiest route and go rattle can.
Map
very nice collection of motorized bicycles, i only have 2 electric bicycles now, wife says no gas in condo
I don't paint my pipes, I polish them and pipes aren't the engine.And how about on the header pipe? A little different story there.......
As far cleaning the engines, use quality gasket materials, check the torque on your fasteners and the engine will stay clean with no need for aggresive cleaning materials.
Any excess chain lube or intake blow back will wipe off easily with an absorbent cloth.
Tom
I live down 3.5 miles of very dusty caleche dirt road, my chain and engine, actually most of bike stay quite dirty all the time, I use brake cleaner for cleaning chain and around the carb where the blow back oily residue forms and mixes with caleche dust that almost sits up like concrete, very hard to get the stuff off, high pressure water wont hardly touch it, thats why I use the carb cleaner and the brake cleaner to clean on mine.
If all I ever rode was pavement, that would be a different story but make two trips down my roads out here and you'll be getting out some chemicals to clean things up...LOL!
Map
I've had the same experience myself, some paints just dont stand up to the fuel and any other chemicals well for some reason, it sucks when you think it will and then BAM............! paint gets lifted and you are ready for a new paint job on something.
I've found carb cleaner it be hard on the paint.I live down 3.5 miles of very dusty caleche dirt road, my chain and engine, actually most of bike stay quite dirty all the time, I use brake cleaner for cleaning chain and around the carb where the blow back oily residue forms and mixes with caleche dust that almost sits up like concrete, very hard to get the stuff off, high pressure water wont hardly touch it, thats why I use the carb cleaner and the brake cleaner to clean on mine.
If all I ever rode was pavement, that would be a different story but make two trips down my roads out here and you'll be getting out some chemicals to clean things up...LOL!
Map
I've used the electrical contact cleaner myself, but as you say it is a bit expensive, a little bit of gas and a small paint brush works great for cleaning also, used to have access to some drip gasoline and used it all the time for parts cleaning, brush it on fairly liberally and then blow alll the grime of with high pressure air works great but now I just buy the Johnsens carb cleaner at a local Big Lots Store for $1.80 per can and I think it$2.50 per can for the brake cleaner, when I go I normally get 6-8 cans of each to put on the shelf.
Dupli Color, VHT and the Alkyd Enamel paints at Tractor Supply work great for me and when good and dry nothing seems to affect them.
Map
