Been reading the "Tips " page and was picking up on some good things. Do these engines really need to have all the gaskets replaced? From the posts it would seem so. I have made a ton of gaskets for cars motorcycles and will be glad to do it if totally necessary. I had rather do it now , clean , than later. I , being the first time with this listen to the boys closely so if needed , will do. Also sounds like the bolts need looking at too. Ok teachers, will be checking back.
Gaskets
- Thread starter gphil
- Start date
The factory gaskets are junk.
The factory hardware is junk.
It's your call if you want to do something about it before your engine starts leaking or a bolt/ stud breaks.
The factory hardware is junk.
It's your call if you want to do something about it before your engine starts leaking or a bolt/ stud breaks.
on my bikes test ride (4 miles) i blew the gasket on the exhaust side.
i was not impressed and hoping it's an isolated incident, luckily stuff like this isn't super expensive.
i was not impressed and hoping it's an isolated incident, luckily stuff like this isn't super expensive.
With the exception of the exhaust gasket; I've never had any problems with the stock gaskets or the stock bolts. Just be very careful not to over torque the bolts. 
Thanks for the info so far, Done a lot of bolt twisting in my time so I will watch it. Do those gears need lubed prior running? Guess if one was to pull that plate off then a new gasket would be needed. Oh well.
Just a small dab on grease on the gears. Then a dab at the clutch actuator rod on the other side[both sides of the rod engine side and cover side.] There is a small ball bearing you want to be careful not to roll out and loose on the engine side of the clutch actuator rod. The Gaskets are not super important on the covers but with a little care they are totally reusable.
I'm with Venice. I've replaced gaskets but that's just me. As for fasteneres...the biggest problem is overtightening and constant retightening. Any fastener and/or casting will eventually fail if overtightened. Don't listen to the people who tell you to retighten the fasteners after every ride. They're the ones who twist off studs and nuts. Do it right the first time then leave them alone. As for motor mounts, as long as the mounts are snug against the frame and no rubber is used, they'll be good if you follow good fastener tightening practice.
Gaskets: The kit supplied intake manifold gasket, if you have problems, will be the first to go. The exhaust next. I like to replace them with a good quality gasket material avaliable from auto parts stores. !/8th inch exhaust gasket material, minimum on the exhaust side, a little thinner for the intake.
Tom
Gaskets: The kit supplied intake manifold gasket, if you have problems, will be the first to go. The exhaust next. I like to replace them with a good quality gasket material avaliable from auto parts stores. !/8th inch exhaust gasket material, minimum on the exhaust side, a little thinner for the intake.
Tom
Best exhaust gasket I personally ever used was a metal one. There are some materials out there not familiar with them all. To me a metal gasket like this one expands and contacts with the heat staying sealed nicely.
Sick Bike Parts
Sick Bike Parts
the intake and exhaust gaskets vary on different kits. some kits, as soon as you take off the intake or exhaust, the gaskets crumble into powder. there's some with thick, spongy exhaust gaskets that will never allow you to tighten the exhaust all the way, and then they'll burn up and disintegrate.
most grubee kits have a metal impregnated exhaust gasket that will last a long time, but usually needs to be grinded abit to match the port.
the head gasket can be reused many times, as long as your careful with it, but if you ever take the jug off, the base gasket will be destroyed.
case gaskets are the same way.
the gaskets on the clutch and magneto covers do no real purpose, except maybe provide a tighter seal, but there's nothing inside to leak out, and unless you submerge your engine, there's nothing that can get inside.
regardless, those gaskets usually last a lifetime of removal.
the gray gasket roll you can get at most auto parts stores works great for intakes, base, and case gaskets.
exhaust gasket material is harder to find, but it's out there.
as for the bolts, i use black allen head socket cap screws for everything. you just need to take out the bolts and the studs and match up the sizes. makes your engine look much cleaner, too.
my problem with the stock hardware is if you remove things a few times, the screw heads will strip out, and the 5 or so different sized flathead screwdrivers i have don't fit them perfectly. maybe i need to buy some chinese ones.
head studs and hardware, i never change. seems to work fine.
most grubee kits have a metal impregnated exhaust gasket that will last a long time, but usually needs to be grinded abit to match the port.
the head gasket can be reused many times, as long as your careful with it, but if you ever take the jug off, the base gasket will be destroyed.
case gaskets are the same way.
the gaskets on the clutch and magneto covers do no real purpose, except maybe provide a tighter seal, but there's nothing inside to leak out, and unless you submerge your engine, there's nothing that can get inside.
regardless, those gaskets usually last a lifetime of removal.
the gray gasket roll you can get at most auto parts stores works great for intakes, base, and case gaskets.
exhaust gasket material is harder to find, but it's out there.
as for the bolts, i use black allen head socket cap screws for everything. you just need to take out the bolts and the studs and match up the sizes. makes your engine look much cleaner, too.
my problem with the stock hardware is if you remove things a few times, the screw heads will strip out, and the 5 or so different sized flathead screwdrivers i have don't fit them perfectly. maybe i need to buy some chinese ones.
head studs and hardware, i never change. seems to work fine.
the day after i made the above post, i almost blew a head gasket.
i've re-used it dozens of times, switching heads and studs and the last time i did i noticed some oil around the seal, so i took it off and it was all burnt up on one side. if i woulda kept riding with it like that, it coulda done some damage.
but like i said, i've probably had the thing on and off 20-30 times before.
i've re-used it dozens of times, switching heads and studs and the last time i did i noticed some oil around the seal, so i took it off and it was all burnt up on one side. if i woulda kept riding with it like that, it coulda done some damage.
but like i said, i've probably had the thing on and off 20-30 times before.
Bumping this old thread because I couldn't find my answer after searching the archives. For the exhaust gasket, I've decided to trash the compressed dog food stock gaskets in favor of some Mr Gasket 77. I'll cut my own to the correct shape. But....since they're only 1/16" thick is that enough, or is it okay to double these sheets since Tom recommends using at least 1/8" gasket.
I'm one of the people you refer to but I don't tighten every time I ride...I CHECK every time! BIG difference. I hope I have not caused anyone to break any bolts...*rolls eyes*
*rolls eyes, flips table, storms out of room* ???
Just sayin' .. that would be better..
But thanks everyone for the input - I will let you know how the gasket works. I'm going to try to ensure totally flat mating surfaces per Tom's advice too.
Just sayin' .. that would be better..
But thanks everyone for the input - I will let you know how the gasket works. I'm going to try to ensure totally flat mating surfaces per Tom's advice too.
