Confusion and chasing your tail...a long one.

GoldenMotor.com

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
I am writing this as a reminder/warning to anyone experiencing a problem with your bike.

I know a lot of help is available here, and most of it is well meant and accurate, BUT beware of being bombarded by too much info, wrong info, and info that doesn't really (or at all) pertain to your problem.

I have read several threads where the "advice" gets so far off track that the original poster is lost in the ensuing storm.

"My bike won't run." Then comes the 946 suggestions to fix it and check it, some are close, some are so far out in left field it's hilarious!

ANY time you are working on your bike, do ONE THING AT A TIME, then check for results.

You should have, or aquire basic knowledge of the workings of the internal combustion process in general, and the workings of your bike in particular.

If it won't go.....first think back on the last time it ran- was it "acting up" or did your problem just "magicly appear"? That's half the battle. Then check for spark, fuel flow ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE ENGINE, and compression.

You need only 4 THINGS to make an engine run-

Fuel- (good clean fresh fuel with the right mix of oil, not "I poured in about enough then a little more to be sure).
Air- Make sure your air cleaner element is fairly clean and that there is no other restrictions.
The dreaded "air leak" also falls under this category...(which is actually a vacuum leak) and if it's sucking in air in the wrong place, it's not going to draw the right way through the carb where it should be drawing from.
Spark- (AT THE RIGHT TIME) check your spark with the plug grounded to the head, there should be no doubt whether you have spark or not, it will be orange to blue and fairly consistant. Sometimes it's at the wrong time due to a sheared or missing woodruff key.
Compression- if you pedal and drop the clutch and you can feel the "bub bub bub" of the engine turning over, and it is hard to pedal, chances are you have enough...our two stroke engines only have about 6-6.5:1 compression, so you don't need a wheel locking boatload of it.

Finally, make sure when you drop the clutch, the rear wheel is actually turning the engine over...sometimes with some people/bikes/ect. there is a dragging like the brakes were applied but no "bub bub bub", that's a slipping clutch and with that, you won't get any of the 4 things needed to run your engine.

Have fun, life is short and you don't want your hobby being a pain in the you-know-what.
 

civlized

New Member
Apr 28, 2009
689
1
0
Alabama
I agree, good post Joe.

Now I would like to add that you should always check your muffler bearings and blinker fluid! Those two will put you down in a second.
 
Last edited:

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
I could probably get more people to read it if I titled it "If you don't read this, you risk serious death or injury!"

(play on words from something I read where they messed up at the printers...)
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
I could probably get more people to read it if I titled it "If you don't read this, you risk serious death or injury!"

(play on words from something I read where they messed up at the printers...)
Joe,
According to psychologists, the best way to get people to read something is to put it this way: DO NOT READ THIS...
I agree with Venice. The people who most need it will ignore it. Too bad too, cause there is some good info in it. Thanks for posting.
Tom
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
Very good advice, about on topic content needing to be just that on topic, and yes some of the post I've read make me laugh also and just say to myself out loud "what the heck is all that about" just like 2door said above tell people NOT to read it and they will, It's just that need to know thing in people that gets-em running to find out what was said or done if told NOT TOO. great job......and very true!
 

exavid

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
163
0
0
Medford, OR
Excellent post. It's also a problem on the Steve Saunders Goldwing site that I'm a member of. It sure helps if folks can give a coherent description of their problem in something approaching English as well. I'm talking about English speakers in this case who seem to write in another language.
 

rockhopper

New Member
Mar 20, 2010
221
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Don't ever underestimate the importance of tire air pressure. Check and double check for leakage around the valve stem.

And the power band should never be neglected. It should always be correctly adjusted. Especially the leather style power bands on the older models. Keep them properly dressed for maximum efficiency.

Oh, and the most important thing to remember is to not listen to a single word I say.
 

rockhopper

New Member
Mar 20, 2010
221
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
This "Motorized Bicycle Senior Member" thing really needs to go away.

Hello MODS. Could we please change it to "is talking out of his ass", or "should not be trusted", or "may be dangerous to your health"?

Just a thought. Carry on.

JC
 

freewheeling frank

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
440
0
0
73
ridgway colorado
so i drilled out my muffler the performance increase is great but could i have lost the bearings? is that why my chain came off? and where do i check my blinker fluid? what are blinkers anywho?frank please help
 

stuartracing

New Member
Dec 9, 2008
488
1
0
62
Gainesville FL.
They only make ceramic muffler bearings now and are quite pricey($1195 per set), but they won`t just come off anymore....And the blinker fluid is Dot 9 synthetic w/dylectric additive....Hope this helps,LOL.....
 

K.i.p

New Member
Nov 8, 2009
339
1
0
CNY
When installing the ceramic bearings be sure to use a three foot cheater bar on the studs to make extra sure they are good and tight. I usually apply enough torque until a distinct snap is felt, that way I know they are as tight as possible.
 

kla63

New Member
Jul 15, 2009
111
0
0
NEW HAMSHIRE
I am writing this as a reminder/warning to anyone experiencing a problem with your bike.

I know a lot of help is available here, and most of it is well meant and accurate, BUT beware of being bombarded by too much info, wrong info, and info that doesn't really (or at all) pertain to your problem.

I have read several threads where the "advice" gets so far off track that the original poster is lost in the ensuing storm.

"My bike won't run." Then comes the 946 suggestions to fix it and check it, some are close, some are so far out in left field it's hilarious!

ANY time you are working on your bike, do ONE THING AT A TIME, then check for results.

You should have, or aquire basic knowledge of the workings of the internal combustion process in general, and the workings of your bike in particular.

If it won't go.....first think back on the last time it ran- was it "acting up" or did your problem just "magicly appear"? That's half the battle. Then check for spark, fuel flow ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE ENGINE, and compression.

You need only 4 THINGS to make an engine run-

Fuel- (good clean fresh fuel with the right mix of oil, not "I poured in about enough then a little more to be sure).
Air- Make sure your air cleaner element is fairly clean and that there is no other restrictions.
The dreaded "air leak" also falls under this category...(which is actually a vacuum leak) and if it's sucking in air in the wrong place, it's not going to draw the right way through the carb where it should be drawing from.
Spark- (AT THE RIGHT TIME) check your spark with the plug grounded to the head, there should be no doubt whether you have spark or not, it will be orange to blue and fairly consistant. Sometimes it's at the wrong time due to a sheared or missing woodruff key.
Compression- if you pedal and drop the clutch and you can feel the "bub bub bub" of the engine turning over, and it is hard to pedal, chances are you have enough...our two stroke engines only have about 6-6.5:1 compression, so you don't need a wheel locking boatload of it.

Finally, make sure when you drop the clutch, the rear wheel is actually turning the engine over...sometimes with some people/bikes/ect. there is a dragging like the brakes were applied but no "bub bub bub", that's a slipping clutch and with that, you won't get any of the 4 things needed to run your engine.

Have fun, life is short and you don't want your hobby being a pain in the you-know-what.
well said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! www.warpspeedbikes.om.flg.