Parts that should be replaced before installing the kit

Still shouldn't broke..the studs if installed correctly would strip/pull out first before the mounts broke. The reason they broke was as I stated they were not installed correctly. When mounting a engine, the rear mount has to be mounted first, this mount has to be flush and tight enough (60 to 70 INCH POUNDS) to the tube, so the engine won't move. After that the front mount needs to be installed. The front mount needs to be flush with the tube and if not a fabricated front mount made or shims used. Installed this way it's impossible for the engine to drop. I don't care what your credentials are. So I say again, the engine wasn't installed correctly... Take it for what's it worth.

Illustrations of mounting...
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket

Al ,your right about not reading the stickeys, i dont get it ?
I devoured all that stuff before my first build. It's good of you to repeate the info for others thanx .

DuctTapedGoat said:

Magneto seal (black rubber grommet in the front) needs to be removed and replaced with silicone.

High quality springed seals (learned this the hard way the other day).

Click to expand...

I applied a spherical gob of GOOP Sealant/Cement around that vulnerable spot where the leads leave the magneto, and it is a weatherproof tough rubber seal far better than what the Chinese have used. I urge you to apply this stuff on not too, wonce it hardens to transparent rubber, nothing will move till you get out oyur X-Acto knife

I have also replaced whose leads (the black and Blue leads) and replaced the ignition coil black and blue leads with this:

http://www.bgmicro.com/images/cab2153.jpg

By the time freight was paid they came to $2.50 each and I have a dozen or sol left.

yodar

dude, i'm not going to argue about it.
those pics you posted are not from stock motor mounts. @ least none i got. i didn't get one single u-bolt.
the stock little cast aluminium pieces broke. 2 of them. i don't see one pic in your photos that show the mounts i was sent.
i replaced them with with something strong & now no problems.
i could go outside now & keep tightening till either the bolts break or my steel frame kinks.
in fact i bought a whole bike & engine together as a kit from spooky tooth. the only way i would have been able to mount my front oversized tube is by drilling the frame.
i didn't drill.

It sounds to me like youre the only one argueing Decoherence. If you broke motor mounts they werent installed correctly. If you dont like the reponse. Dont ask questions. There was nothing argumentative said. Its how you took it. There are some of us that think people should leave the high school atittude off of here. It just makes the threads uninteresting. But thats my opinion.

Part 1 of 2

decoherence said:

those pics you posted are not from stock motor mounts. @ least none i got. i didn't get one single u-bolt.
the stock little cast aluminium pieces broke. 2 of them. i don't see one pic in your photos that show the mounts i was sent.

in fact i bought a whole bike & engine together as a kit from spooky tooth. the only way i would have been able to mount my front oversized tube is by drilling the frame.
i didn't drill.

Click to expand...

those pics you posted are not from stock motor mounts. All my rear mounts are totally stock, the front mount on some of my builds are NOT stock...WHY..stock mounts wouldn't align with the bike tube, so I had to frabricate the front for a perfect fit.

Are these the type of mounts you were supplied?

...............Rear mount ...........Incorrect alignment .............Correct alignment

This is my fabricated front mount...

Part 2 of 2

On this Chopper I made the tubes to match the engine..


On this chopper I bought a offset engine mount and it was the perfect 75 degree "V"


There is not one build that I can't stand on top of the cylinder head, and the engine won't budge, not one, even at 210#

John the Chimp said:

It sounds to me like you're the only one arguing Decoherence. If you broke motor mounts they weren't installed correctly. If you don't like the repose. Don't ask questions. There was nothing argumentative said. Its how you took it. There are some of us that think people should leave the high school attitude off of here. It just makes the threads uninteresting. But that's my opinion.

Click to expand...

i didn't ask any questions.
the thread was about parts to be replaced.
i only stated that was one of the pieces that should be replaced.
the only differing opinion i am giving from any one was that my cast aluminium mount broke because it is one of the parts that should be replaced.
if it wasn't to be replaced, why are pictures being posted of mounts that are not stock?

also please quote where i have given any attitude.
i have already seen how people here take things like it is the final word like " 100:1 or not" or "idler wheel or none" or even the "idler vs tensioner".

i too hate when people ask questions then not like the opinions they asked for. being i didn't ask any opinion & the thread was asking for opinions, i gave mine.
in fact i even blamed myself for possibly not being clear.
i don't even feel like the guy that responded to me has an attitude.

next time please read carefully before typing with your emotions about what you think you read.

How do you know we didn't read carefully?

It's not a commonplace thing to fail - every single aspect of these motors can fail, one in a hundred doesn't justify replacement.

One in 10 or 20 does though.

Yes, people have made new mounts - they're also custom made for different bikes, not bought in shops but fabricated in their personal workshop.

Calm down man.

i had 2 break. 2 out of 2.
i can see where the problem could have been now. my seat stay is larger than most. it tapers only @ the top. the stock mounts don't come anywhere close to the the other side of the mount clamp.
either way a replacement fixed the issue. i just wanted to share that.
i'm still not sure why telling what happened to me & how i fixed it means i have an attitude or that i am upset.
i am doing neither.
in reference to reading carefully it was toward the person i quoted.
he said that i was asking questions & have given attitude to the answers.
which neither was done.
if somebody can quote me for doing either i will be more than glad to apologise for it.
in the meanwhile i apologise for even being a reason to side jack this thread.
so please carry on with the topic @ hand.

This is a good transition one - the wrap around U-style (as opposed to the drilled T-style) universal clamp can fold the frame. This isn't a completely stock part, though it is given as an optional upgrade at a few retailers.

Reinforce that puppy with some cut pipe with the same ID as the OD of the seat tube.

There are more high quality parts you can use - one I have used is a customized muffler clamp.

His last post proves my point. Thats all I have to say. I wont drag this out anymore.

Rubber keeps it from being torqued properly and stresses the frame moreso than usual.

Some people have luck, but there is enough bad experiences and controversy on it that I don't think it'd qualify as a general "should be replaced".

No matter where ya go, there's one of us there! \m/ >_< \m/

LOL - best way you're going to see it in action is to dig through the rubber motor mount threads so you can get an idea of what it does. Those studs are important to replace day 1, and are cheap to do as well. GR8 hardware is cheap enough.

the thread was about parts to be replaced.
i only stated that was one of the pieces that should be replaced.
the only differing opinion i am giving from any one was that my cast aluminium mount broke because it is one of the parts that should be replaced.
if it wasn't to be replaced, why are pictures being posted of mounts that are not stock?

First of all I wouldn't recommend the need for replacing the rear engine mount, just make sure that it is installed correctly. Now the rear engine mount supplied with the kit might not fit the down tube, and if not then something (enlarge or shim, or even modify with few exceptions like a oval down tube) needs to be done to fit correctly. All my rear mounts without exception are stock. There is no need to replace them. I have never heard or seen a rear mount itself malfunction that was mounted correctly.

Now for the front mounts. In a perfect world the front mounts would install as seen in the instructions, but we get mounts that fit, too large, or too small for the bike tube. To top that off VERY FEW bikes come with the correct "V" angle to mount the engine. As I said before a PERFECT angle will be 75 degrees. So all the front mounts that were fabricated were fabricated in order that the engine will be mounted correctly.

AS for the mount itself, I can take the mount, wrap it around a correct size tube and bolt it together, and before the mount gave out the bolts or nuts would malfunction, 100% of the time, yes I said 100% of the time. Heck, don't even need a tube at all, the mounts will not break. One of the mounts had to be installed incorrectly and the shear/torque weight broke the mount. I suspect it was caused be the front mount.

Now I was telling you the reason your rear mount broke to begin with....take it for what its worth. I doesn't take a rocket scientist or a FAA approved shop mechanic to put one of these bikes together. As a FAA approved avionics installer, a pilot and a Air traffic Controller, auto mechanic myself ,leads me to believe your mechanical ability leaves much to be desired to be working around aircraft.

You're like my grandson, and he is 9. He doesn't really understand why he needs a helmet while riding a bike. I tell him one is for safety, and it's the law. But he still doesn't understand or accepts, but does it anyway.

Take it for what its worth...Enough said.... I' done.

DuctTapedGoat Come on now...don't you think that Grade 8 is a little over kill, and hard to find, unless you are talking about a Metric 8.8? Yes it will work but in these cast aluminum engines the Grade 5 is stronger then the cast. So either Grade 5 or 8 will work. I like the grade 8.8 bolts for the sprocket (which mine included them). Plus its hard to find any all-thread above Metric 8.8 (USS Grade 5).

Wow guys !!! Take a step back and remember were all friends here. This is a very important thread ,that many newbies will prob read . We all (myself included) need to learn to lessen the ego content of our post's . Emotion does not translate well via the web . We all know of some tech's that can help a new guy get the best of there new kit , lett's focus on that... $0.02

Al.Fisherman said:

DuctTapedGoat Come on now...don't you think that Grade 8 is a little over kill, and hard to find, unless you are talking about a Metric 8.8? Yes it will work but in these cast aluminum engines the Grade 5 is stronger then the cast. So either Grade 5 or 8 will work. I like the grade 8.8 bolts for the sprocket (which mine included them). Plus its hard to find any all-thread above Metric 8.8 (USS Grade 5).

Click to expand...

Grade 5 is the minimum I use if I can't get to a place with Grade 8. Though I do agree - it is a bit overkill! I don't use all thread - I just dehead the bolt. The reason isn't for torque, but for bent bolts and prevention of those.

Thank you though, usually I say Grade 5-8, and I especially should have in a topic like this.