Need help with some direction.

GoldenMotor.com

AslansMonkey

Member
Oct 2, 2008
194
1
16
Kind of half read things here so some of my advice may be repeats. Sounds like you've gotten a ton of good advice already though. Folks on this forum can be counted on for that.

On lights, there are two basic types of lights for bicycles on the market. There are lights to BE SEEN with and lights to SEE with. Lights to BE SEEN with cost around $25 and have a steady on or flashing setting. They usually operate on AA or AAA batteries and last pretty long, especially on the flashing setting. These lights, of course, are to help people SEE you but they're pretty lousy at actually being able to see the road with.

Lights to SEE with are a little more costly. The generator lights are the cheapest and cost around $50 but are likely to burn out if you run your motorbike at max speed. Most of them aren't made for that much current. The other lights run off batteries but generally come with a rechargeable battery pack. They can run upwards of $100. I had a $250 set once which seems silly until you consider that they basically lit up the road like a car. These battery lights run for several hours on a charge. Of course you could always strap a flashlight to your handle bars too and buy rechargeable batteries for it, but I'd recommend getting a set of the BE SEEN lights (they have flashing red ones for the rear of the bike) to get you through the summer and look into a good quality solid light as the days shorten.

For your spokes buy a spoke tool from a bike shop. They're not too expensive and are WAY better quality than anything from Walmart.

I don't know if this has been mentioned but once you motorize your bike be sure to check every screw, bolt and nut OFTEN. Ideally every time you ride but at least once a week. Don't ignore the ones on the skewers going through your wheel hubs (the inside ones holding the bearings in, not just the outside ones holding the wheels on). Gently "pluck" your spokes to make sure they stay tight too. The vibrations of these motors have a tendency to rattle things lose.

As for where to post your "build" thread, that's up to you. If you're going to be real detailed, use one of the on-line photo journal sites like Tabloo and post the link here. If it's more sparse, then a new thread here or even adding to this thread is likely to be fine.

In any event, welcome to the hobby. Be prepared to become addicted. I've built four since I started a little over a year ago.
 

taddthewadd

New Member
Mar 1, 2009
337
1
0
43
Visalia, California
I second that on checking all hardware frequently (bike and engine). I have built two bikes and both engines came out of the box with loose hardware. My friends bike quite running and we were trying to figure out what was wrong. Finally I thought of checking the hardware. We tightened all of the hardware and it ran perfect after that.
 

JD-StukNchaoS

New Member
Dec 29, 2008
31
0
0
santa paula, Calif.
Welcome to the site IVIaxPow3r, being a big guy i can completely understand your concerns. You may have underestimated the MB's ability a little, but don't worry with a correct set-up you'll be amazed with the performance. Just make sure an opt for the larger of the two motors which is the 66cc (Note: some of the stores still may advertise it as an 80cc) true displacement is measured w/o the head hence the 66cc. We here at this site value the truths and accuracy in all information provided so that the new ppl coming onboard can start out on the right foot. All of the safety precautions carry over to MB's (helmet,lighting,horn,lever brakes if none come w/ bike) if i can offer through experience go w/ a beach cruiser style of bike. Staying within budget-style and comfort-easy install all have contributing factors. For example i just finished 2 Micargi cruisers for my chiropractor for he and his wife and this guy wanted to spend no more than $350 a bike, and so he chose a $169 bike with a springer front end and whitewalls, just a great lookin' bike and zone 8 gets the kit to my door for $150. So the budget is realistic for the do-it-yourselfer's out there. If staying legit and licensing is what your concerns are then i'll go into what we do here in Ca. It's easy to get your bike registered with the DMV. All that's req'd is a serial # stamped on the motor-Example: CA764240MB (Which is state your in CA, the yr. of motor 7, yr. of birth 64,1st three digits of current address, Motorized Bike MB). then pay a one time fee of $19 and get your plate. My theory is have a plate look legit and ride SAFE! Other MBer's think by having a plate it may even bring more value to the MB for the resale value in the future,.,.,.who knows. Good Luck
 
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IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
I am in constant amazement at the amount of quality advice I find here. Just wonderful :)

So, first - a quick story... I don't have the cash quite yet to buy the engine for my bike and I am currently having to rely on a housemate to give me a ride to and from work everyday. But, now I have my bike right? I can ride that to work right??? I found out today.... I got loaded up with all the stuff I would need for work in the morning and some tools and stuff to be safe in case I needed them and hit the road. Everything was going great - until I hit the first hill. Let me tell you - for a big guy like me - first gear was no where near strong enough. And as I continued my ride - I learned more and more about just how "not good enough" first gear was.... the area I have to ride through is very hilly and my bike was very pissed at me for deciding it could handle them hills - so every time I got to a hill it said "Get the **** Off of me! Do this yourself!" So I did. 3.3 Miles one way - an hour and a half later - I made it home. The moral of the story lads and lasses - is that I need a freaking motor on this thing! :)

Helmet - I was looking at a $25 dollar helmet on amazon - *searches for link* here. Is this not worth my money?

To continue my sounding like a newb on here - what is road rash? And how does a jacket prevent it?

They have a Park Tools multi-tool at my local bike shop - I'm thinking of getting it to replace the Bell Tool I got from wal-mart.

Does anyone know of anyway for me to make my own light that will run off of the engine?
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
21
0
Maine
lol - I've got a ol' crusty cruiser that I'm motorizing, I just had to pedal it around a bit tho. Riding to work and back with naught but one wheezy people power ona single speed bike that weighs a TON?

Yeah... engine good heh


Road Rash
noun
1. (colloquial) skin and bone injury caused by abrasion with road surfaces

...and the light? Well, ya can experiment with any ol' 6v flashlight/lamp bulb and the white wire - but there's some small problems sometimes encountered, the electrical output of the engine feeble at best. Dropping the plug gap helps - there's a buncha good info & feedback here: http://motorbicycling.com/f23/lights-run-off-white-wire-no-7306.html
 

dag_29307

New Member
Jul 1, 2009
296
1
0
Enoree, Sc.
It sounds like you are on the right path to getting your MB started. I have been trying to find a way to put some lights on my bike and the best thing I have come across is using a power wheel battery and a fog lamp for a car. The battery weighs about 5 lbs and is mounted in a zip up cooler type lunch bag on my carrier over the rear wheel. I have a small red trailer light I mounted to the rear reflector you can find the lights the wiring, switch, etc. at any auto parts store or wally world for around $15.00. You can use virtually and rechargeable battery you can find but this is where I got mine.

ESR 750 electric scooter - Go-ped - Electric Bike or Scooter - Batteries Plus

You don't have to use these batteries but you get the picture. It works as good if not better than the $200.00 lights.

Or if you are a DIY type guy you could try one of these

BIKE LIGHT "Commuter" under 5 bucks By Veggiecycle
BIKE LIGHT 500 Lumen "Mt.Bike" for under 10 bucks by Veggiecycle

I tried both just for giggles after I found my set up. The nice part about all of this is it will work now and even when you get your motor.

The only advice I can offer you is...get some Locktite! I didn't at first and it was scary to be riding along and the exhaust just falls off. =( I got home to find out the nuts vibrated loose and right down the studs. So yeah Locktite helps.

Other than that the Gurus of this forum have you taken care of. You know this forum is like that insurance company. I have never been in better hands.
 
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IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
News Update: Purchased my motor last night! WOOHOO! Figured out I'd have some extra cash this month, so I didn't need to wait for my craigslist sales to go through - plus my experience from last night put some weight on me to get it taken care of (see earlier post for details). I bought the Silver Flying Horse 66cc from BikeBerry (anyone have any idea how long it might take to get here? I'm in Missouri, looks like they are in California - they ship with FedEx)

It sounds like you are on the right path to getting your MB started. I have been trying to find a way to put some lights on my bike and the best thing I have come across is using a power wheel battery and a fog lamp for a car. The battery weighs about 5 lbs and is mounted in a zip up cooler type lunch bag on my carrier over the rear wheel. I have a small red trailer light I mounted to the rear reflector you can find the lights the wiring, switch, etc. at any auto parts store or wally world for around $15.00. You can use virtually and rechargeable battery you can find but this is where I got mine.

ESR 750 electric scooter - Go-ped - Electric Bike or Scooter - Batteries Plus

You don't have to use these batteries but you get the picture. It works as good if not better than the $200.00 lights.

Or if you are a DIY type guy you could try one of these

BIKE LIGHT "Commuter" under 5 bucks By Veggiecycle
BIKE LIGHT 500 Lumen "Mt.Bike" for under 10 bucks by Veggiecycle

I tried both just for giggles after I found my set up. The nice part about all of this is it will work now and even when you get your motor.
I think I like some of the DIY options for the sake of cost - it looks like they use a 12v light though - that's too many volts to run it off of the engine right? I could probably just change out the light with the right voltage though.

The only advice I can offer you is...get some Locktite! I didn't at first and it was scary to be riding along and the exhaust just falls off. =( I got home to find out the nuts vibrated loose and right down the studs. So yeah Locktite helps.

Other than that the Gurus of this forum have you taken care of. You know this forum is like that insurance company. I have never been in better hands.
Can someone link me to the Locktite I keep hearing about - I have searched amazon for it and I see a bunch of different types from the company by that name - what specifically am I looking for? And can I get it at a local hardware store or what kind of store carries it?

That helmet doesn't look too bad, just make sure you get the right size. See if the Raider helmet site has a sizing chart and measure your head.
Found the sizing chart. Will measure tonight :) (I am at work currently).
 

exavid

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
163
0
0
Medford, OR
Get blue loctite at any auto parts store and most hardware stores. Don't use the red stuff because it will be nearly impossible to remove a bolt with that kind. Not too surprising the first ride on that bike was hard. I was off bicycles for several years and thought I'd die on my first pedal powered ride a couple months ago. I just forced myself to get out on the road every day for three or four miles. Now I can easily make ten miles at reasonable speed. Hills I needed to push the bike up then I can ride up now. It's surprising how well and quickly you can build yourself up for pedal cranking. Not a bad idea so you're prepared when the engine or something decides to pack it in. Oh yeah, that lowest gear is pretty tall at the beginning but it gets easier.
 

IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
Get blue loctite at any auto parts store and most hardware stores. Don't use the red stuff because it will be nearly impossible to remove a bolt with that kind. Not too surprising the first ride on that bike was hard. I was off bicycles for several years and thought I'd die on my first pedal powered ride a couple months ago. I just forced myself to get out on the road every day for three or four miles. Now I can easily make ten miles at reasonable speed. Hills I needed to push the bike up then I can ride up now. It's surprising how well and quickly you can build yourself up for pedal cranking. Not a bad idea so you're prepared when the engine or something decides to pack it in. Oh yeah, that lowest gear is pretty tall at the beginning but it gets easier.
Thanks for the info! I kinda thought that it might be the blue stuff - I saw some blue stuff on the threading of one of the bolts I needed to remove from my bike - put two and two together - just wanted to be sure.

I think I might have an easier time riding if I don't go out with all the crap that I had with me as well. I had brought: a small case of tools, 1 nalgene full of water, 1 steel bottle full of water, 1 kanteen full of water (this is the one I drank from while riding, the others were in the backpack), my bike pump, my kryptonite lock (which is surprisingly heavy as well), a lunch box on the rear rack, and a few other smaller things in another pocket - basically I brought what I would need for work because that is what I was testing - if I would be able to peddle the bike to work.

I can probably get out and go riding without all that stuff and fair much better - all the while building up my strength and stamina so I could peddle it if needed. How long did it take you to be able to go that far without having to walk the hills?

Side note: Would one of these engines be able to pull myself and another adult in a trailer? I am more just curious.
 

exavid

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
163
0
0
Medford, OR
I think it would be asking a lot for any of these small engines to pull another person and a trailer. That's a difficult taskt for many small motorcycles. I like to use a chain and lock rather than the big U shaped ones. You can wrap the chain around the seat post and lock it there and it's out of the way but handy. A set of bicycle saddlebags are a great thing for carrying junk as is a rack or seat bag. I like the saddlebags because they're easy to remove from the bike and carry with you when you get where you're going. Prevents the light fingered ones from getting into trouble. I try to get in around 25 miles per week to work myself into reasonable shape for the warm part of the year, it takes more work at my age to keep the legs in shape though there's not much I can do about arthritic knees. One personal rule I have with the MB is not to ride farther on it than I can pedal or walk back from. These are great little machines but not as reliable as a Honda scooter or bike.
 

dag_29307

New Member
Jul 1, 2009
296
1
0
Enoree, Sc.

IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
Alrighty - been a little bit since I've updated - but I've been waiting until I had something to update

I got my engine kit yesterday - 66cc Flying Horse from Bike Berry.

Just tried to follow the directions and what not - realized that is is probably a good idea to read through everything that I am doing.... Put the sprocket on backwards at first and had to take everything off and do it again - ugh - but it was still fun.

Then I got to the point of mounting the engine and ran into some trouble. I probably have to make some modifications or something - but I am kind of unsure what to do exactly. I did try reading through a bunch of posts on motor mounting - but I am still kind of confused. I also looked at some other Schwinn Point Beachs here on the forum - but most of the pics weren't taken to show how they were mounted so it was kind of hard to see.

If I can I would like an option that doesn't require welding - as I don't have any quick access to welding stuff. (My father-in-law has a bunch of useful welding and machining stuff - lives 6 hours away).

Here are some pictures with explanations for what is going on.










Let me know if you need any more information.

Thanks for the help!

(btw - aviary is the software I used to mark up those images - it is free and you can host them online right from the tool - it's good stuff! Might be useful for other members here.)
 

IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
Thanks Nougat - That makes sense and I think I should be able to do that - just need to get some washers on the way home - do you know what size I'll need btw?

On this one:


Do I need to do anything to make sure that the mount is hugging the tube well - currently the tube is to thick for it to fit snug on. Maybe I am just confused at what you were saying on this part.

Thanks!
 

IVIaxPow3r

New Member
Mar 21, 2010
25
0
0
Columbia, MO
Hello all!

Just though I'd update everyone on how the build is going.

Long story short - I got it working (with some help from Nougat).

I've reinforced the fenders and fixed what was likely an air leak at the carburetor.

I got a dual pull brake lever after having riding it around for a while - like it a lot better :).

I've had at least one successful "long" run since I've made my most recent adjustments and fixes.

Just kind of breaking it in now. Soon I'll be riding it to work! :)

Let me know if you guys have any hints or recommendations for someone like me at this point.



 
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exavid

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
163
0
0
Medford, OR
I've got a Schwinn Point Beach (or vice versa) and it's seat tube isn't tapered, I think that's an artifact of the camera angle that makes it look like that. That's one difficulty with aluminum frames they seem to have thicker tubes than steel frames. If you can't get that clamp to fit better than that by grinding it might be worth loosening up the bolts a bit, put some tape on the bottom of the gap and fill the space with JB weld. That might help spread the load a bit instead of just bearing on two points on the tube. The engine's vibration will eventually eat out either the tube or the engine mount if you can't spread the load more evenly around the tube.
 

AaronF

New Member
Aug 24, 2009
389
0
0
Illinois
For the rear mount block you could take a drill and a 1" drum sander and run it through the block until you get a flush fit on the seat tube.DO Not over sand it or sand it down to the bridge,there isn't much material to remove and I'm not sure how well the bridge of a block mount would hold up to these motors.
 

exavid

New Member
Dec 12, 2009
163
0
0
Medford, OR
One thing you could do would be to squeeze the seat tube a bit to narrow it. That would allow the motor mount to fit. That won't compromise the tube's strength much is any at all since there are no side loads on it, it will actually be stronger fore and aft. You might have to get longer studs to thread into the motor. I found metric threaded studs at ACE hardware when I needed some to mount the motor to my mountain bike build. Just double nut the studs in the motor and unscrew them, putting in the longer ones the same way.