DUDE! Where's my locking freewheel ??!!

Actually, the now-popular single-cog track flip-flop hubs and wheelsets are really good too-

A freewheel goes on one side and a fixed track cog- and lockring- go on the other-

the flanges for the track cog fit our motor bike sprockets perfectly, and the hub has a stop ridge to keep it out of the spokes-

the lockring would spin on the wrong way with normal threads, but maybe another cup or cone/washer could hold it all on-

the motor sprocket would be wedged securely-and supported by the same diameter hub- the all it needs is minimal leverage to drive it with the hub- I'm looking for large flange hub now- I think some small lightweight bolts could go through both the sprocket and hub-


They are mostly available in 700C for a road/track frame, but the hubs could be on a 26" rim- they're on e-bay under "bicycle wheelsets"

I bought an old Schwinn World traveler (for 5 dollars!) about two weeks back, I'm think of motoring-

I've painted it and put MX bars and stem- it has a nice alloy crank- and 27" wheels (too large an un-dyed flange in the back) so I'm maybe gonna get some fixed gear trackie wheels-

I'm thinking a lightweight 48cc, with narrow chain and lightweight 36 sprocket I have already- Keep the whole thing as light as possible- maybe 36 lbs or so- and the narrow wheels ought to really roll!!!

One word about road frames- BEWARE of the narrow bottom brackets and 3 piece axles-

the World Traveler is not a true racing frame, but still lightweight and sturdy, normal size tubes, and it looks like the 80 on my cruiser might clear the cranks- (a nice alloy Sugino 3 piece setup)

but I've already bought a wide 135mmm spindle at Sick Bike Parts that I KNOW will clear-
and I guess the 48cc's are a little more narrow-

Say, does anyone have accurate measurements of the width of the different engines (all 2 and 4 stroke) they could share here?

Hey Neat,

Yeah, that's a start. You had die MADE?

I'm annoyed at standard road hubs, and have wondered if the left side could be cut down to the same diameter as the threaded side, and then even died like this- they seem to have as much clearance off the bearings as the freewheel side-

Do the manufacturers fear the motor sprocket?

I've been trying to track down some hubs like my Micargi multi speed rear- it's not threaded but already the correct diameter otherwise- a lockring would be nice- but it's a little bit cheap- steel with pressed on bearing races- so now i'm trying to get a line on some large dflange trak flip-flop-

the thread is right-handed, but the sprocket fits over it snugly-

Obviously I'm sort of a cycling purist and much concerned with weight- I think thats the main strength of a motorized bicycle compared to a scooter- Even a small 50cc scooter weighs in at about 200 lbs, while I can lug the bike up the stairs if need be, and I can tear it down and put it in the car or on a rack- plus most of the parts are quickly available at a bike shop.

Your allen bolt sprocket fasteners are interesting- what are they driven into?

also, how do you post these attached thumbnails- they're great!

Also- about the motor measurements- let me kick things off with what I can measure here:

the 80 appears to be 4 3/4 inches wide or about 120mm - so slightly more is needed for the cranks to clear- I think the widths go down from there-

Also, if the "80" is really just a 66 cc, why don't they just tell us that? The public will over-react- MARKETING!

I think I've found some high flange flip-flop trackie hubs- I recently got a 36 sprocket- really just nine holes and the larger 1 3/8" center (is it?) that was made from a BMX crank-

I hope with high flange hubs, the sprocket should slip snuggly over left side threads- though sans threadinbg down- a lockring should hold it then snuggly side-to-side,

and I'm thinking that maybe some smaller alloy nuts and bolts- (6 or 9) will just go through the flange holes, if I drill lower holes in the sprocket- to hold it to the rotating hub then-

I've looked at track cogs and freewheels and they seem to screw onto threads the same diameter as our sprocket center=

Together with a cruiser chain ansd narrow motor sprocket, it should be keeping things lightweight

I'll let you know what happens- I'm still querying the dealer-

OK- just a quick note after researching these "flip-flop" hubs some more, and trhis is from a dealer answering a question to someone else on e-bay-

Apparently, the lockring on a rear "flip-flop" track "fixie" hub is ALREADY reversed thread-

That means that our sprocket will fit the diameter of the hub (a standard Track bicycle racing cog threading)- ALTHOUGH IT WON"T THREAD DOWN.

But the lockring, with left-handed reverse thread, WILL LOCK and hold it laterally about 1/8 inch from the spokes.


The best solution here then, outside of the "locking freewheel" would then simply be a track cog that had enough teeth for our motors. That WOULD thread on (they only seem to go up to about 22- trackies always "push the big meat!" So then what would a 22 cog do with the motor?- about 180 mph or something, once it got going!)

So then all that is needed is a way to move our sprockets forward WITH THE HUB- and it appears that some simple and lightweight (even alloy!) bolts may go through some drilled holes in the sprocket, and directly through the holes in many typical HIGH-FLANGED hubs- to pull the already locked down sprocket with it- and eliminating all the heavy metal plates and rubber pieces and long standard nine bolts. (there are still nine holes in MOST high flange alloy hubs, only they are closer to the large inner hole. I'm thinking that six then may be enough- eliminating every third bolt and nut.)

A place called "Bike wagon" in Salt Lake is selling them on E-bay- I'm sure there are others- These are on 700c wheelsets- 26 inch may be hard to find, or build your own, or have the local bike shop build them, once you get a rear hub.

If anyone has any objection to the arrangement, let him speak now, but I'm probably gonna try this when I get the money and time- I've been spending too much time on this friggin nonsense anyway! And I stepped on a nail a couple of weeks ago, got a tetnus shot and have been sick since.

Ok- i'm just bumping this up mostly because I'm hoping that someone will see this idea-

of a LOCKING FREEWHEEL and who can make it reality-

A flip flop hub would work- with a freewheel on each side, and the one on the motor side would then lock up with a lever, to restart the motor-

so that when the motor is off and the bike is being pedalled- only the regular bike chain would be turning- only the weight of the motor kit itself would be the difference between normal cycling then

and MOTORING!

The bike wouldn't need a pull start or a centrifical clutch.

Here is the bike now- built up with gears- but if I put a motor on, I'd probably use a single freewheel and take all the shift stuff off- to keep it all really lightweight.

So it looks like this will soon be a reality-

www.hybridped.com says the pedal start freewheel will be available early September- NOW!

I bought a pair of 700C flip flop wheels, but then resold them- the 1 inch tires looked a little too narrow and I was then grinding the schwinn hub- it's not as tidy, but cheaper.

So I'm going with these 27 X 1 1/4 tires if and when I motor this- it's a great ride otherwise!

Here is the hub ground with a file and just using the pedals to drive the wheel forward with the bike upside down,

and a light weight 34 sprocket drilled to bolt directly to the 9 hole large flange hub (once centered hole drilled to size as well)

I also have a 32 sprocket from boygofast that is already drilled close to center hole, and it appears a equilateral rectangle pattern of four bolts would attach directly as well-

of course, this still isn't the locking freewheel or "pedal start freewheel"