I think imma try and solder the old tank up while I'm waiting for the new one to get here.... Ill let ya know how it turns out
Dry ice = solid C02. That's a great idea, never thought or heard of that.don't forget to put dry ice in it so you don't explode
If you were successful with the other three studs and you feel confident that they aren't leaking, go back and repeat your soldering process on the leaky one. Use a paste flux, like Nokorode' and watch your heat. Get it just hot enough for the solder to flow (liquid) and fill your pin holes. Too hot and the solder won't stick. Too cold and it won't flow where it needs to go. You should be good to go. Now, don't over tighten your fasteners.Update....
I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. Went to home depot and picked up some metal working solder. Tank has been sitting wide open for days now, but I filled it with water and turned it upside down, leaving hole where petcock goes unplugged. Basted on some flux that came with a propane torch that I had previously used and I heated it up and blobbed on copious amounts of the solder.
Good/ bad news -
Good - I didn't explode anything, still have all my fingers and no metal in mah face \m/ and 1 of the studs is leak free
Bad - one of the studs on the front of the tank still has a pin hole. Not leaking like it was at all but still leaking
I'm still left with questions - like can I grind down the ugly, or should I leave it alone
The flux helps clean the metal for a better adhesion. But even with it the metal needs to be clean. Sand the areas where you want the solder to flow/stick to so you have clean metal. A stainless steel brush will be helpful for very small, tight areas.Thanks tom - I still have no idea what I'm doing and the blobs of solder are a bit on the super ugly side- if I grind (sand) them down will I mess it up.
I'm not sure how this works. Is the solder filling the gap or just covering it up. Does the flux make it go into the crack, or is it just so it sticks to the metal