if i saw a guy ridin MY bike on the streets of the burgh, id throw something large and heavy at em, provided im not near braddock or the north side.... check for wrist pin/rod-crank play if you havent yet.
Pittsburgh Stolen Schwinn Collegiate (recovered!) - Help from Pee-wee Herman
- Thread starter Tacomancini
- Start date
I hear ya, I never saw him myself, just got the reports via text and forums. He told the cops he bought it and surrendered it willingly though. It came back with another motor bike kit grip on it. That's curious.
So I'll pull the jug and to check for play should I just shake the piston? And if it sounds rattl-y I might have my culprit?
So I'll pull the jug and to check for play should I just shake the piston? And if it sounds rattl-y I might have my culprit?
see if there is any play in the wrist pin bearing. The piston should be able to rotate (obviously) around the pin and move back and forth a little, but not up and down. Make sense? If that bearing is bad, it's not a big deal to replace it. If the lower rod bearing is bad, that's another story. I haven't had the crank shaft out of one of these engines yet, but as I understand it, you would need to press the crank apart in other to replace the lower bearing.
Also, before you pull the jug off, order a bottom cylinder gasket. The old ones never survive. While you are at it, you may as well order a head gasket too.
Also, before you pull the jug off, order a bottom cylinder gasket. The old ones never survive. While you are at it, you may as well order a head gasket too.
Tim, Thanks for the info. I decided to order a new engine, and use the old one for education and eventually another build so I'll try your suggestions.
I ordered another skyhawk from piston bikes. Finally had some time to work on it, and fired it up for its first ride today. Its cold here, so it took about ten tries, but once it started firing I was back in business. I'm breaking in this time with opti 2 at 100:1. I don't know if its the opti, or the 2010 skyhawks, but so far it seems much much smoother and well behaved than the 2009. Less erratic.
Here's a vid, it never sounds as good on youtube but I feel like its running pretty nicely: YouTube - Back In Business
The clutch however seems a bit suspect. I had to tighten the clutch, and I noticed that the pucks are really jammed in there. I couldn't even pull them out. So I probably am only getting 50% action on the clutch right now. I'll probably end up pulling them out to sand them down unless there's a better method.
Wheels are out of round pretty badly thanks to the hard riding perps, but I'm thinking of switching to nice sun alloy 26 x 1 3/8 rims EA1 style from the S6 that are currently on there. It is impossible to find good tires for the s6 rims. But the european style has some really nice options like this cream colored tire. Schwalbe 37-590 26 x 1 3/8 Delta Cruiser Cream w/Reflective Stripe - harriscyclery.net
Sportscarpat's tank is on there and looking good. It really improves the riding experience over that peanut tank getting in the way. I think the collegiate makes a good basis for a motorized city bike build. The frame is pretty bombproof at 45 lbs. The engine fits perfectly, the geometry and seating is good for visibility around cars. The biggest problems have been drive chain clearance, I had to spread the rear chainstays, and the S6 wheels being a pain. When I replace the rear tire, for the third time (cheap tires) I'll bevel the edges of the stock drive gear. Maybe I'll try to spring load the tensioner some how. The clearance issues keep me from going tensionerless, or using a solution like Kip's tensioner.
I'm also trying to decide whether I should switch up the hub so as to have a better drive gear mount, either the ce sprocket adapter or maybe the grubee hd hub. Maybe there's a belt drive solution that makes sense.
These are all of course fun problems to have.
I've got a sick bike parts expansion on standby for after break in. I'm back in business and super excited. Now I've got a big heavy duty kryptonite lock, I'm not taking any more chances.
Cheers to everyone.
I ordered another skyhawk from piston bikes. Finally had some time to work on it, and fired it up for its first ride today. Its cold here, so it took about ten tries, but once it started firing I was back in business. I'm breaking in this time with opti 2 at 100:1. I don't know if its the opti, or the 2010 skyhawks, but so far it seems much much smoother and well behaved than the 2009. Less erratic.
Here's a vid, it never sounds as good on youtube but I feel like its running pretty nicely: YouTube - Back In Business
The clutch however seems a bit suspect. I had to tighten the clutch, and I noticed that the pucks are really jammed in there. I couldn't even pull them out. So I probably am only getting 50% action on the clutch right now. I'll probably end up pulling them out to sand them down unless there's a better method.
Wheels are out of round pretty badly thanks to the hard riding perps, but I'm thinking of switching to nice sun alloy 26 x 1 3/8 rims EA1 style from the S6 that are currently on there. It is impossible to find good tires for the s6 rims. But the european style has some really nice options like this cream colored tire. Schwalbe 37-590 26 x 1 3/8 Delta Cruiser Cream w/Reflective Stripe - harriscyclery.net
Sportscarpat's tank is on there and looking good. It really improves the riding experience over that peanut tank getting in the way. I think the collegiate makes a good basis for a motorized city bike build. The frame is pretty bombproof at 45 lbs. The engine fits perfectly, the geometry and seating is good for visibility around cars. The biggest problems have been drive chain clearance, I had to spread the rear chainstays, and the S6 wheels being a pain. When I replace the rear tire, for the third time (cheap tires) I'll bevel the edges of the stock drive gear. Maybe I'll try to spring load the tensioner some how. The clearance issues keep me from going tensionerless, or using a solution like Kip's tensioner.
I'm also trying to decide whether I should switch up the hub so as to have a better drive gear mount, either the ce sprocket adapter or maybe the grubee hd hub. Maybe there's a belt drive solution that makes sense.
These are all of course fun problems to have.
I've got a sick bike parts expansion on standby for after break in. I'm back in business and super excited. Now I've got a big heavy duty kryptonite lock, I'm not taking any more chances.
Cheers to everyone.
Attachments
Maybe you can space the hub to the right to solve the clearance problems-
go to a smaller freewheel, or a single freewheel?
Also a smaller motor sprocket would give you more clearance.
I know the clearance on diamond road frames is tough- last year I was buliding up a schwinn traveller and when I found that the clearnce was going to be an issue (didn't seem insurmountable though- is your hub ground so that the motor sprock fits over it-? it's easy with a file and just spinning the wheel with pedals)
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/your-bicycle-great-hub-grinder-10281.html
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...r-bicycle-great-hub-grinder-augjuly090020.jpg
AND the tank was an issue peddling- I was using kit- tank,
I ended up finding a light Huffy cruiser and putting 700C wheels on-
http://motorbicycling.com/f15/sprocket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-24770.html
heres a three cog freewheel.
Sprocket Wheel Freewheel 3 Speed for Scooter Bicycle - eBay (item 250739500504 end time Dec-14-10 21:32:02 PST)
with a single you may need a pedal side tensioner, or 1/2 link.
Of course the wheel dish would have to be compenstated as well, but if you can get the motor sprock to the right, it may clear- Is the sprocket offset? The red sprocket in the flip/flop link above came standard in a kit (it's 41t) It would give you another 1/8" at least to the right if you now have a straight sprocket not offset.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...procket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-sprocket.jpg
that tensioner there is a piece of work.
I'm glad your bike is back!
go to a smaller freewheel, or a single freewheel?
Also a smaller motor sprocket would give you more clearance.
I know the clearance on diamond road frames is tough- last year I was buliding up a schwinn traveller and when I found that the clearnce was going to be an issue (didn't seem insurmountable though- is your hub ground so that the motor sprock fits over it-? it's easy with a file and just spinning the wheel with pedals)
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/your-bicycle-great-hub-grinder-10281.html
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...r-bicycle-great-hub-grinder-augjuly090020.jpg
AND the tank was an issue peddling- I was using kit- tank,
I ended up finding a light Huffy cruiser and putting 700C wheels on-
http://motorbicycling.com/f15/sprocket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-24770.html
heres a three cog freewheel.
Sprocket Wheel Freewheel 3 Speed for Scooter Bicycle - eBay (item 250739500504 end time Dec-14-10 21:32:02 PST)
with a single you may need a pedal side tensioner, or 1/2 link.
Of course the wheel dish would have to be compenstated as well, but if you can get the motor sprock to the right, it may clear- Is the sprocket offset? The red sprocket in the flip/flop link above came standard in a kit (it's 41t) It would give you another 1/8" at least to the right if you now have a straight sprocket not offset.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...procket-bolted-drilled-flip-flop-sprocket.jpg
that tensioner there is a piece of work.
I'm glad your bike is back!
Last edited:
biknut 
Thanks!
Nashville Kat, I'm subscribed to your threads on your bike builds and that custom flipflop hub drive mount. I was definitely liking how you were going for that light and fast build, and took that as an inspiration to push forward with the collegiate and its skinnier wheels. The wheels feel much more nimble in the city. Of course its a trade off, currently my wheels are super wobbly and out of round, but my local bike shop guy thought I should keep with the weird 26 x 1 3/8 wheel size, but swap to double walled alloy rims ea1 style so as to keep the bike geometry.
So you never finished the traveler, the red one? It was nice looking, but I digg the huffy too.
But its that damn clearance thing, and I spread the chainstays to 135mm, so its got to be the older schwinn hub that is just extra wide. And I think you're right, I could dish to the right move the drive gear in closer to the wheel. The drive gear's hole does fit over the hub properly with rag joint, and the stock gear has the dish in. Currently there is a ton of room to the right of the 5 speed freewheel. I only get 4 gears now, as since I spread the frame, the derailleur can't reach the low gear it is so far away.
I'd like to keep the gears, as I like being able to kill the engine and bike around where motor vehicles can't go, especially on the city trails And Pittsburgh can be very hilly. So I think when I change the rims out, I'll probably change up the hub. It would sure be nice if they could make a hub that allows the drive to just screw on. I guess the HD hub is popular, but I've only seen an HD that has a freewheel for 6 speeds on the grubee site. Plus I've heard there are some size compatibility issues with it.
I like how you drilled into the high flange hub, that makes a lot more sense. I'm not sure I could pull that off without messing it up. Getting it centered seems hard. Does anyone have a 5 or higher external speed bike with a better drive solution other than rag joint or jack shaft? Can the five speed gears from my bike go on any standard hub like the flip flop you are using?
I gotta say, the behind the seat tank makes it so much nicer to ride. I don't know if cruiser builds allow for the tank to be out of your way, but on diamond frames that tank feels so restricting when peddling standing up.
Thanks! Nashville Kat, I'm subscribed to your threads on your bike builds and that custom flipflop hub drive mount. I was definitely liking how you were going for that light and fast build, and took that as an inspiration to push forward with the collegiate and its skinnier wheels. The wheels feel much more nimble in the city. Of course its a trade off, currently my wheels are super wobbly and out of round, but my local bike shop guy thought I should keep with the weird 26 x 1 3/8 wheel size, but swap to double walled alloy rims ea1 style so as to keep the bike geometry.
So you never finished the traveler, the red one? It was nice looking, but I digg the huffy too.
But its that damn clearance thing, and I spread the chainstays to 135mm, so its got to be the older schwinn hub that is just extra wide. And I think you're right, I could dish to the right move the drive gear in closer to the wheel. The drive gear's hole does fit over the hub properly with rag joint, and the stock gear has the dish in. Currently there is a ton of room to the right of the 5 speed freewheel. I only get 4 gears now, as since I spread the frame, the derailleur can't reach the low gear it is so far away.
I'd like to keep the gears, as I like being able to kill the engine and bike around where motor vehicles can't go, especially on the city trails And Pittsburgh can be very hilly. So I think when I change the rims out, I'll probably change up the hub. It would sure be nice if they could make a hub that allows the drive to just screw on. I guess the HD hub is popular, but I've only seen an HD that has a freewheel for 6 speeds on the grubee site. Plus I've heard there are some size compatibility issues with it.
I like how you drilled into the high flange hub, that makes a lot more sense. I'm not sure I could pull that off without messing it up. Getting it centered seems hard. Does anyone have a 5 or higher external speed bike with a better drive solution other than rag joint or jack shaft? Can the five speed gears from my bike go on any standard hub like the flip flop you are using?
I gotta say, the behind the seat tank makes it so much nicer to ride. I don't know if cruiser builds allow for the tank to be out of your way, but on diamond frames that tank feels so restricting when peddling standing up.
