idea for a tesioner

GoldenMotor.com

meowy84

Member
Jul 18, 2009
239
0
16
Canada
Looks like a great idea to me. The spring would take up the slack on acceleration and decelleration as well.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
It looks a little crude but...
Holy cow.
What did you do, use the whole length of the kit chain? Or is there something out of picture that forces the bottom of the chain to be that high?

You can get a little hand held screw type chain link breaker from Ace Hardware for $6.

Done properly you don't need a tensioner on either chain if it's not a frame issue, let alone your... ummm, creative solution ;-}

This will help.
http://motorbicycling.com/f3/chain-flop-18361.html#post177601
 

rohan3ni

New Member
Jan 15, 2010
27
0
0
florida
thats the chain i got. and i did take out some links out. if i try and make it shorter the master link wont able to connect. i took out as many as i could. and no frame issue. i dont see how its a crude way..... i think its pretty cool. lol this was the main problem when i got the kit. i did what alot of ppl told me and this idea worked.
 

rohan3ni

New Member
Jan 15, 2010
27
0
0
florida
yea but as a mechnic i kinda like it lol. its look big one it but its not really for show just something to do with extra time. i like that kind of work ya kno?
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
thats the chain i got. and i did take out some links out. if i try and make it shorter the master link wont able to connect.
It "won't connect" because your pedal chain has set the wheel distance.

Take off your pedal chain.
Adjust your motor chain via full links and back wheel nuts to fit as near the opening of the chain stays axel keyway to fit with just barley snug chain tention on the drive chain with no tensioner.

Now mess with the seldom used pedal side.
You want slack in it, just enough so it won't fall off with the little use it gets.

As the drive chain stretches, move the wheel back, the pedal chain has slack to spare.
No tensioner needed usually if you get into 1/2 links and such, but if not and you still need a little tensioner, at least it will be on the pedal side, smaller, and well... wouldn't end up on all the "redneck solutions" comedy web sites is all.

No offense to your creative solution, really, but I just can't stop laughing at the produding bolt ends and sharp metal edges sticking out from it.

"Chain guards? Those are for sissy's, I wrap my whole bike in razor wire"

No kidding though, I sure wouldn't stradle the thing and ride it, especially in shorts.
 

AaronF

New Member
Aug 24, 2009
389
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Illinois
Creative that's what its all about!! I noticed in the photo it looks like your coaster brake arm is attached to the stock piece of metal?
 

Mo'Beffah

New Member
Mar 17, 2010
59
0
0
Hawaii
Um.....it's mechanically good(except for what looks like the same stock wheel) but it looks like a tank. My wheel broke off on the first test run but I still had all the mounts. It looks as though your chain is at least two links too long too. That was my problem. Way too much tension on the roller. Here's my fix. New bolt and I just put three skateboard bearings on it. Used gorilla grip tape over the bearings so it isn't metal on metal. The tape actually got eaten up just enough to make grooves in it which acts almost as a tape sprocket. It gooed up into little spikes and now the chain doesn't even move. The metal bracket I bent was from before it kept jumping off but now it's perfect. And you can tighten the bolt ad much as possible with the bearings still able to spin because of the bearing spacers like the skateboard.
 

flybytaco

Metal Molding Madman
Oct 17, 2009
1,170
8
0
seekonk MASS
here is my full suspention setup the normal roller is replaced by a cr 80 thru 500 roller and the reason for the frt one is to take up the slack when the rear susp compresses as the pivot point of the swingarm isnt centered with the countershaft



 

slowenuff

New Member
May 5, 2010
25
0
0
baltimore,maryland


http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af118/rohan3ni/IMG_6947.jpg


if everybody out there ave problems like i had with mines i found this fix. all i did was get a peice of metal from home depo.
clever boy....i'd only add that double nuts are in order, maybe w/ a split washer in between......you have accomplished a fix any farmer would be proud of...i like how you picked up the brake arm strap...so are their different quality tension rollers??? i'm amazed the chain doesn't just destroy the nylon roller that seems to be the same no matter the kit..... really nice fix. i do love clever fixes! charlie in baltimore.duh.
 

Mo'Beffah

New Member
Mar 17, 2010
59
0
0
Hawaii
Damn!! That thing is MENTAL!!! bad time to try and put mine up cause u just came along and shut this **** down. Where did u get the rollers and the square guide?
 

flybytaco

Metal Molding Madman
Oct 17, 2009
1,170
8
0
seekonk MASS
thanks lol the roller is off a honda cr 80 thru 500 and the frt square i made everything except the modified oem chain tentioner and the square is a special epoxyboard from a friend he wont give anyone the specs on what it actually is i guess its top secret lol
 

rohan3ni

New Member
Jan 15, 2010
27
0
0
florida
Creative that's what its all about!! I noticed in the photo it looks like your coaster brake arm is attached to the stock piece of metal?
yea i use bits here and there to make up the whole thing. the only thing i had to buy wat the 4ft metal.