Anybody here using Titanium bolts?

I'm thinking of getting some gradually- to take weight off my bikes-

possible places- Flywheel, magneto and clutch covers
rear sprocket bolts
stem bolts

already have some 3 piece crank titanium bolts

doesn't sound like much, but titanium weighs less than half of steel- so it starts to add up-

gotta push these up and down a flight of stairs for now- and just want to see how light I can get them otherwise.

Anybody using titanium and where? What are sizes?

Well, that's a matter of opinion. And i'll probably do it gradually-

my builds- the little 50 especially- is centered around keeping it all lightweight-

I've got a lightweight cruiser frame, alloy bars and stem, 700 c wheels that are fairly narrow on 3/4" rims, alloy 3 piece crank, lightweight 415 trike chain with NO TENSIONER, alloy handbrakes, even titanium bottom bracket spindle bolts- Use the smaller tank too.

I haven't weighed it yet, but whatever a 50 kit would add, I've already reduced that a couple of pounds, and the bike really sorta even rides like a road bike now- even with the motor on. I was doing a track stand on it the other day, Rolls forever-

So if I can get it down further I may take a year to do it but I still want it light, and I'm stilll pushing it up a flight of stairs. I doubt if anyones got a lighter one- at least using a cruiser frame still- and I use that for clearnces

There are after all 12 heavy steel bolts just on the flywheel and magneto and clutch covers
Now if only someone started making some lighter fiberglass ones!

My BMX alloy stem has 4 fairly large bolts- probably WON'T compromise on the wedge bolt!- but I've priced them out on ebay- and it looks like that would run about 20 dollars for the $18 stem- but would take some heavy metal off.

The nine regular rag bolts on that one I've reduced the number of bolts from nine to the six inner bolts by drilling the hub and bolting- they are still M6 but the commercial alloy sprock that Kings sells has inner bolt drilling for M5- even smaller! So that also cuts out the weight of 3 bolts and nuts, the heavy steel backing plates and the rubber.

It does add up- but yes- some expense I won't do all at once. I can actually get a much lighter head jug- I had one and something got in and scoured and I ended up putting the original heavier one on- just the way it came as opposed to what Boygofast sells now as replacements- much lighter than the kit from two years back. And then i can put a billet back on a have better carburetion- LONG STORY

So I may do that first- but no hurry- wear this one out a little

I'm sure this bike is well under 50 pounds already

I've never heard the term "weight weenies"
But it sounds like it's from guys
who eat too many weenies and weigh too much
and blow my eardrums out with their ancient hog when they pass

Hey, try blasting out of criterium corners again and again for several hours , 50 miles or 100 kilos, and then tell em it doesn't matter.

of course its less important on a motor bike, but I'm in my higher 50's now and not getting any stronger- I don't want to muscle a bike around much- plus the motors are a little underpowered anyway.

Luckily I have a gas station a block away and even my smaller tank lasts me a couple of weeks for my purposes - I generally put between 80 cents to a dollar in it- I'd go even smaller and with less gas if there was a tank out there- a small FRAME FIT tank would be great.

I have a front basket I've taken off the removable support bracket and just lashed it to the bars with worm clamps- the bracket is solid steel- HEAVY and that saves a half of a pound probably

Anyway- so it's reasonable to have a MB that weighs in about 45 pounds, cruises at around 30 and COASTS a half a mile when the motors cut at speed. This is very satisfying.

If I was in it just for speed I'd get some alloy drop bars, but I have the BMX anno bars with an 8 inch rise- quite comfortable.

Here it is before the 3 piece alloy crank and before taking off the basket bracket