Simulated Break In Period

GoldenMotor.com

ZRTMWA

New Member
Feb 23, 2010
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Baltimore, Maryland
Spookytooth says the same thing :( :

Blueprinting - Pull More Power From Your Engine

Probably the biggest and most helpful tip to ensure good longevity of their motorized bicycle is to be extremely easy on the engine upon initial start up and during break-in. The chrome liner of the cylinder needs cyclical heat tempering to get up to its optimal hardness. In order to accomplish this cyclical heat tempering, the bike should be kept at very low idle and ran for short amounts of time. We recommend a top speed of 15 mph for a 44T sprocket, and trips limited to 10 minutes. Follow this regimen for the first 3 tanks and the engine should develop 1/3rd more power and you will notice that all of the engine noises miraculously disappear.
 

longhair

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
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eagle rock
Optimum break-in is to cruise at all speeds not exceeding high RPMs. You have to ride the dang thing! Stationary idleing with a fan is like taking out a blow up doll for a date {no offense to some of you guys out there}. Now go ride your MB and try not to think too much about motors, just have fun and if a problem occurs- then get some great answers from the forum.scratg
 

ZRTMWA

New Member
Feb 23, 2010
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Baltimore, Maryland
Yeah I'm not going back to read the thread, but I can assure you I was not the one who brought up idling with a fan. I wasn't ever planning on doing that. Again, the only thing that didn't appeal to me about the break in period was the (false) requirements to keep the bike below 15mph and the short riding times. Glad I have this forum to tell me daTruth!!!! :)
 

Vistaman73

Chat Box Junkie
Nov 29, 2009
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Shawnee, Kansas
I brought that up. We know you would never do that. But when we keep putting reasons out there we start talking to whoever is listening not the original poster. It just gets put out there for all to see. I agree, manufacturers make break-in seem a drag but if you just take the first 10-20 miles easy and once you make sure its "all good" just ride it. :D
 

chrisme

New Member
May 30, 2009
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Maine
FWIW I did follow the break-in somewhat closely(ish). For the first tank and a half I kept it under about 20mph, but wasn't afraid of going WOT up hills and whatnot, just not over 20. Going WOT up hills is going to help the rings seal better to the cylinder wall. But no high RPM to hurt bearings, etc. After 2 tanks I switched from 24:1 oil mixture to 36:1. I never did 16:1, that's if you're running 30 weight engine oil in the gas.
After probably 500 miles I switched to synthetic oil and 50:1 mixture which gave me a performance boost.
Now with well over 3000 miles on the engine, it has no issues at all. I'm running a slant head, I've filed it down a bit for even higher compression, and everything is great! Still just as high compression as ever, no bad bearing sounds, just smooth running. :D
 

ZRTMWA

New Member
Feb 23, 2010
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Baltimore, Maryland
I brought that up. We know you would never do that. But when we keep putting reasons out there we start talking to whoever is listening not the original poster. It just gets put out there for all to see. I agree, manufacturers make break-in seem a drag but if you just take the first 10-20 miles easy and once you make sure its "all good" just ride it. :D
Yeah sorry, I guess I just started to assume all posts were directed at me.

FWIW I did follow the break-in somewhat closely(ish). For the first tank and a half I kept it under about 20mph, but wasn't afraid of going WOT up hills and whatnot, just not over 20. Going WOT up hills is going to help the rings seal better to the cylinder wall. But no high RPM to hurt bearings, etc. After 2 tanks I switched from 24:1 oil mixture to 36:1. I never did 16:1, that's if you're running 30 weight engine oil in the gas.
After probably 500 miles I switched to synthetic oil and 50:1 mixture which gave me a performance boost.
Now with well over 3000 miles on the engine, it has no issues at all. I'm running a slant head, I've filed it down a bit for even higher compression, and everything is great! Still just as high compression as ever, no bad bearing sounds, just smooth running. :D
Sounds good! I've got the slant head too and plan on running it 24:1 on break-in. I doubt mine will go 3000 miles without any issues considering all the issues I've had already with building it...
 

chrisme

New Member
May 30, 2009
423
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Maine
I ran mine probably 1000 miles before I got the slant head. But I don't ride easy on mine, I let it warm up, but then it is either WOT or nothing, it gets a little break down hills.
 

longhair

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
232
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eagle rock
Yeah sorry, I guess I just started to assume all posts were directed at me.



Sounds good! I've got the slant head too and plan on running it 24:1 on break-in. I doubt mine will go 3000 miles without any issues considering all the issues I've had already with building it...
Actually that's good, most MBs have several bugs in the begining, but the rides get better and longer as you keep riding. I think we've all been discouraged with building Mbs, now when I have a problem I fix it back in my garage right away {cuz by now I've learned what these things need to keep runnung and what it takes em to get fixed}. In no time you'll be like some of us others and own 2 or 3 of em'.
 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
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living the dream in southern california
also, no one really mentioned that engines need to be run under load to break them in. the varied loads on the bike help to seat the rings throughout the range of motion, so to speak. if it just sat at idle, it wouldn't do anything but burn gas.
 

ranger1100ky

New Member
Apr 15, 2010
3
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Newport, KY
One thing for the guys breaking in their very first engine...

Not only are you breaking in your engine... you're getting YOURSELF broke in, as a rider of a motorized bicycle. You learn a lot in your first few weeks...

--like the fact that your brakes don't stop you NEAR as fast as they did when you were simply pedaling along...

--like how to adjust your chain tension properly to keep it on the sprocket...

--like inspecting every inch of your ride before you fire up that engine, just to save yourself the hassle of having to 'fix' crap that plain fell off or worked loose out on the road...

--like how to look down the pike, and spot all the lovely things/people that can and WILL get you hurt... things like TRAFFIC, DOGS, idiots on cell phones... and good ole Mr. Right-turn Clyde who turns in front of you while you're throttling up to get through that intersection... potholes... etc...

--Like how to deal with all the aforementioned hazards in a pro-active way that prevents you from having to jam on your brakes, stalling your engine, and potentially leaving you laying face down in the street with 40-50 pounds of bicycle sticking out of your fanny.

I just started on my first couple of gallons of 32:1 gas, and am anxious to see what happens. I ran 16:1 per manufacturer instructions for the first gallon, and rode the bike from home to my workplace about 5 1/2 miles away (an uphill trip) and back. It didn't run bad, and I kept it from WOT starting out, just taking my time and getting used to it and navigating the wicked traffic conditions that are part and parcel of city driving.

I'll definitely be expecting a little better performance now that I've cut back a little on the oil... and of course, be expecting to have to watch myself so I don't throttle myself into trouble with the traffic.

Biggest benefit and the reason I got the engine, was to cut my legs a break... Doing all that uphill riding every morning and then spending the day walking around on pavement, and THEN battling a couple of uphill climbs before the big downhill home, were getting to be a drag after 5-6 days a week, every week. LOL And the engine has certainly accomplished that mission virtually flawlessly.

My personal feeling was, if I could get 10-15 going up the hill and 20-25 on flat land... I'd be completely satisfied... and I'm already 'there' so to speak. (Knocking 15-25 MPH on a bicycle that was designed to hang in the 5-15 MPH range for the average recreational rider, to ME, is quite sufficient and pretty darn good.)
 

LaLongueCarabine

New Member
Aug 15, 2011
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United States
The nonsense above about tempering the sleeve is well nonsense.

1. A 2 stroke cylinder does not get hot enough to change steel.(Normally)
2. Heating and then cooling in short cycles actually hardens steel not tempers it.
3. Tempering is not hardening steel but making it more ductile or soft.

My friends and I have argued how to break in 2 stroke engines for decades.
What I can tell from several engines I've had is to use rich oil mix for the first tank or two. Don't over rev and don't lug it. One day you'll notice more power and a smoother running engine. Using the normal mix also adds power.

When it comes down to it, I don't think you can't screw it up unless you really try by using straight gas or something equally stupidpino..
 

577-Jersey

New Member
Mar 23, 2013
293
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central western nj
Proper break in is horse hockey!!!I raced,and worked on 2 stroke bikes my whole life,,for over 35 years,,always taught to break em in like your gonna ride em,,as long as the motor is warmed up you can bring it up to WOT a few times when new,,never hurt it,,even a fully broke in motor could blow if ran WOT for a long period of time,,these are two strokes,high reving motors,,you cant hold em WOT for to long,,but as for break in make sure its warm then just ride it,,keep checking the motor and make sure its running smooth and not too hot,,after a couple tanks I would lean up on the mix.
If break in was so dang important we would have to do it with ALL our 2 cycle motors including chainsaws,weed eaters,blowers,ect....I run mine hard right from the warm up,,never had an issue in 35+years.

Peace out!

577dnut
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
Proper break in is horse hockey!!!I raced,and worked on 2 stroke bikes my whole life,,for over 35 years,,always taught to break em in like your gonna ride em,,as long as the motor is warmed up you can bring it up to WOT a few times when new,,never hurt it,,even a fully broke in motor could blow if ran WOT for a long period of time,,these are two strokes,high reving motors,,you cant hold em WOT for to long,,but as for break in make sure its warm then just ride it,,keep checking the motor and make sure its running smooth and not too hot,,after a couple tanks I would lean up on the mix.
If break in was so dang important we would have to do it with ALL our 2 cycle motors including chainsaws,weed eaters,blowers,ect....I run mine hard right from the warm up,,never had an issue in 35+years.

Peace out!

577dnut
I have to concur. When I first started with this hobby I tried to follow the manufacturer's recommended break-in procedures with my first engine.

Not anymore. They get rode hard and put away wet, right out of the box. And you know what? All of my later engines have performed much better than the first one that got treated softly. Never had an engine/bearing/piston/ etc. failure of any kind.

Ever see a woodsman baby his new chainsaw? Ever see a yardman running his new weedwhacker at 1/2 throttle? Bet ya ain't.

Tom
 

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
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USA
a lot of it depends on how well the factory builds the engine - engines from china are lucky to run a week with or without break-in, but I believe they'll last longer if the internal burrs are worn in gently
 

Goat Herder

Gutter Rider
Apr 28, 2008
6,237
20
38
N.M.
I go about 5 to 10 miles straight to the Mountain Foot Hills here ''all pavement from in the city'' This gives me a steady ''load'' The load makes the rings sit still and train into a perfect wear pattern. During this ride I will very my throttle etc. I don't really baby it ether. Mebbe the first mile after that I consider it up to proper operating temp and game on.
 

maniac57

Old, Fat, and still faster than you
Oct 8, 2011
4,484
22
0
memphis Tn
I have to concur. When I first started with this hobby I tried to follow the manufacturer's recommended break-in procedures with my first engine.

Not anymore. They get rode hard and put away wet, right out of the box. And you know what? All of my later engines have performed much better than the first one that got treated softly. Never had an engine/bearing/piston/ etc. failure of any kind.

Ever see a woodsman baby his new chainsaw? Ever see a yardman running his new weedwhacker at 1/2 throttle? Bet ya ain't.

Tom
Could not have said it any better.
40+ years of two stroke riding, tuning, racing and generally messing with every kind rind dinger you can think of, from tiny rc glow engines to huge industrial and marine two stroke diesel powerplant engines.
Owners manuals don't care HOW your engine runs, just HOW LONG your engine runs. They totally overdo their instructions to reduce warranty returns from inexperienced users.
Any real two-stroke old timer will tell you the same thing.
At least the fast ones...


I want to find any weak parts right away, not 75 miles from the house.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
a lot of it depends on how well the factory builds the engine - engines from china are lucky to run a week with or without break-in, but I believe they'll last longer if the internal burrs are worn in gently
If your engines only run a week, you're doing something wrong more than improper break in. :)

Tom
 

Toadmund

New Member
Jan 19, 2012
792
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Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
I have to concur. When I first started with this hobby I tried to follow the manufacturer's recommended break-in procedures with my first engine.

Not anymore. They get rode hard and put away wet, right out of the box. And you know what? All of my later engines have performed much better than the first one that got treated softly. Never had an engine/bearing/piston/ etc. failure of any kind.

Ever see a woodsman baby his new chainsaw? Ever see a yardman running his new weedwhacker at 1/2 throttle? Bet ya ain't.

Tom
I understand you break in with Opti2, right now I am breaking in my second motor with Opti2. I am not babying my motor and varying the throttle a lot.

My question for you Tom is:
My engine only gets about 45km/h (~28mp/h) and is a bit sluggish and takes a while to accelerate to 45km/h.
(sorta wonder if clutch could be adjusted? maybe not? Difference between wrist pin bushing (new motor) and bearing?)

I am 1/3 tank burned so far, how long using Opti2 can I expect ~60km/h (~37mp/h)?

My memory using regular 2 stroke oil is fuzzy, but I do remember an increase in performance, but unlike now, I did not have a speedometer so I cannot judge by how much.