Ok let me start off by saying I was going to try to drop the bomb by getting a new engine that no one would recognize .Well , Nancy , seems that some people , even here has heard of the wizard 4 stroke and two stroke motors and have had problems with them . I will get this thing going until with any luck my Grunbee Skyhawk GT5 80cc Angel fire Slant Head will be here . Let me say that I would rate the handle bar grips on a scale 1 to 10 an 2. Any correct way to get them off ? The wheels turn true on it. I will rate them an 10 for a wallyworld bike. And will the coaster brake give me trouble ?
Operation OP ( the first build in progress )
- Thread starter kicking
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check this thread: http://motorbicycling.com/f3/hand-grip-removal-whats-your-method-13140.html
as for the coaster brake, there might be some small issues with the stock sprocket fitting on, but search some threads and you'll find all the answers you need.
the only other problem you might have, is if you pedal backwards, you'll stop.
as for the coaster brake, there might be some small issues with the stock sprocket fitting on, but search some threads and you'll find all the answers you need.
the only other problem you might have, is if you pedal backwards, you'll stop.
I am hoping and praying that I have no issues with the stock sprocket. If anyone finds any links to any thread about that issue please paste them here , I am not going to stay on this thread too much to save room on the threads for people who already have motors until I get my motor. P.S. I like the way venice motor bikes suggest to get the grips off . I have never thought of using compression to get them off so someone has there thinking cap on ! But these grips are (JUNK!) I am trying to do this right and quick. Although I have experience with building hardknocks I know nothing about bicycles and these motors
One question I have always wondered and just had remembered to ask is > since once these motors are mounted , and the chain is on the left side of the rear wheel coming off of the motors ; Why not take the rear wheel off and turn it around ? Will it work ?
I'm no expert, I'm kinda new here but I can think of two reasons. 1) the gearing would be really high and 2) have you tried peddling your bicycle backwards? It doesn't work.
if you turn a coaster brake wheel around, when you pedal forward, the brake would go on. if you pedaled backwards, the bike would go backwards.
if you have a freewheel and turn it around, the bike would freewheel when you pedaled forward and go nowhere. (there was a funny video about that, where some guys turned the wheels and cranks around and left the bike unlocked in a bad neighborhood. kids would jump on it to steal it, try to pedal hard to take off, and just end up racking. it was hilarious.)
a fixed gear hub wouldn't work because if you turned it around the gears would un-thread themselves because they're threaded for the right side.
they do make a "dual drive" hub for BMX freestyle which can be used on the right or left (for the rider's preference, like "goofy foot" on a skateboard.) i'm looking into those, actually.
if you have a freewheel and turn it around, the bike would freewheel when you pedaled forward and go nowhere. (there was a funny video about that, where some guys turned the wheels and cranks around and left the bike unlocked in a bad neighborhood. kids would jump on it to steal it, try to pedal hard to take off, and just end up racking. it was hilarious.)
a fixed gear hub wouldn't work because if you turned it around the gears would un-thread themselves because they're threaded for the right side.
they do make a "dual drive" hub for BMX freestyle which can be used on the right or left (for the rider's preference, like "goofy foot" on a skateboard.) i'm looking into those, actually.
I see what you are saying about spinning backwards . It seemed that if the shaft comining out of the motor turns counterclockwise then it seems that the chain would turn counterclockwise and the rear wheel would be turning counterclockwise . I am glad I cleared that idea up , It can fool ya . Are the sprockets on the motor shafts 8 tooth 5/16 - 18 set screw #40 chain ? I hope I don’t have to buy an sprocket for the motor .
P.S keep me updated on the '' goofy foot '' there has to be an easy way to go on this part of motorizing an bike .. what would yall say is the hardest part of motorizing ?
Hardest part is the whole chain/sprocket (especially the balancing)/engine/tensioner alignment process. Everything else is pretty much bolt-on & go, with the exception of little things like working with crappy hardware (most things are replace-able for less than $1 at the hardware store), tuning the carb (easy), shortening cables (dremel/air cutter is your best friend), and then 500 miles down the road when you realize the bike you bought is a P.O.S. (though this only happens to some).
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Looks like you did not use an chain tensioners ? Did it work out pretty good without it ?
So FAR yes.Balance the two chains. They do have 1/2 master links. If you have to use a tensioner, put it on the pedal chain.. ><>
got my motor Monday . so far I have snapped one of the exhaust studs even with the head , and the screws holding the clutch case on are striped , looks like tap and die is in my future . { and better stainless steel } , can I tap the holes with the screws and studs still in them ? or is it best to drill first? 1/4 inch will work for the exhaust , 13 mm seems to be the size of the mounting studs on this motor , not sure about the clutch case screws, the sprocket felt that came with my kit was so warped and distorted It messed my wheel up trying to torque down to straiten it out , now my rim and spokes are trashed , .. good thing I collect bicycles people don’t want . I put an mountain bike wheel on ... I will now need brakes ... as for the sprocket felt ,..... I dug my camping closed foam mat out of the shed and scribed and cut it for my sprocket sandwich . I think it will work very good .... and even better for what I need ,,, I’m too old to go camping any way LOL . Well I found out that a whole lot of people have snapped Exhaust studs and screws no matter where they bought the engines at ... I’m not giving up ! I see no need to post pics since most know what I’m enduring I may even get crafstman tap and die set at the flea market .. for 5 bucks
If you dont want to get a tap and die set there is a tool called an easy-out they sell them at the hardware store they make different sizes its basically a reverse thread pointed drill bit .You drill a pilot hole in the bolt or stud and screw the easy out the opposite way with vice grips when its good and seated twist it the other way , this is what I used on My kit I had 5 heads stripped out. Get yourself the SBP motor hardware kit its worth the few bucks.
Cheers
Cheers
Well here is where I am at with my build . The pictures here are before I do more modifications both frame and motor . The rims on these OP's are ( MADE OF PLASTIC !! ) I was 6 miles from home at night time when the spokes gave way to the torque on them . In these pictures you will see the bent spokes and the nasty chain gash on my stays . I will keep my tires and make hula hoops with these rims for the children . The gash is the thing that I'm worried about . I'm going to go ahead and make the hole more open and then fire up my back yard foundry . I will then funnel melted aluminum cans into this gash and make the whole bottom of my stays 'solid' aluminum . By the time I am finished with this Iron horse '' It will be American made - by me ! an American ! I have made an baby moon for the case cover so far and will make an pan head for the head cover . Not an fake head but one I will mold and machine myself . I just wish I had two rides so I can ride and work on my other build , I have to work on my patients' ! If I have two rides I will never work on the one broke down . I would ride and never do jack squat on this build . I invite any ideas . And let me take this time to tell all dealers to feel welcome to P.M me with some rims that will fit this ride . Christmas is coming and Santa might help me . Main thing is ( BEWARE OF PLASTIC RIMS ! ) they can look metal .. check yours ''TODAY "" !! P.S. Norm has an nice thread on foundry work .
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Wow....plastic rims, you'ld prolly be better off making your own rims outta hardened banana peels....sheeesh.
I was checking those OP's out a while back at the W-World and I like the aluminum frame on them. The forks pretty much suck and I wouldn't waste compressed air on getting those garbage grips off of the bars....a razor knife is the appropriate method for that.
Your build looks good though....keep on bangin' away at it, cheers!
I was checking those OP's out a while back at the W-World and I like the aluminum frame on them. The forks pretty much suck and I wouldn't waste compressed air on getting those garbage grips off of the bars....a razor knife is the appropriate method for that.
Your build looks good though....keep on bangin' away at it, cheers!
Does this bike have any rear eyelids to connect a rear carriage? and does the fork have any mounts for V brakes or anything? from what I see here, its only 1 brake.
