Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

GoldenMotor.com

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
Re: Happy Time Expansion Chamber On A GP460 Engine!

I mounted my GP460 engine upside-down on my Scooterguy frame-mount adaptor. That left a LOT of room topside, so I installed a Happy Time expansion chamber system and ran the pipes between engine and the bike's top tube. Everything fit right in there, so I had room to install a 4-liter Happy Time fuel tank.

BTW, the exhaust bolted onto the 460 engine and fit snugly onto the bike frame. Performance-wise, it REALLY awakened this high-rpm engine.

And now it's quieter than a stock muffler.dance1
xct2

Here's my bike:
http://motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30075&d=1294959863
 
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shellshock

New Member
Dec 10, 2010
11
0
0
mesa/Arizona
my first engine was from bike berry and it was the cheapest motor i could get befor the Raw motors came out.. it was good at first but when I went over 30mph the bike would shake so bad my hands would go numb after 30 seconds... plus it was freezing cold out so I could not feel the break. I thought there was nothing I could do so I just put up with it.. after a year my motor starting to slow down so I just went ahead and bought a grubee! some people said I would have to place rubber from an old intertube between the motor mounts and the bike frame but I didnt waste my time. Now with the grubee motor I can get up to 45 plus mph "when I adjust the choke right" without anly vibration
 

PurduePete

New Member
Jan 19, 2011
8
0
0
Indiana
While I realize that not everyone does this I would just like to recommend NOT removing the inline fuel filters. I saw a post that said a man removed his fuel filter because it kept getting clogged from rust in his tank... this is the point. The fuel filter is supposed to keep gunk from entering the engine and cause serious harm. I do not own a motorbike yet but I do have a dirt bike and have owned several and tinker on them all. While I will not say that I know it all I do believe in this.
 

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
1,743
5
38
louisiana
my first engine was from bike berry and it was the cheapest motor i could get befor the Raw motors came out.. it was good at first but when I went over 30mph the bike would shake so bad my hands would go numb after 30 seconds... plus it was freezing cold out so I could not feel the break. I thought there was nothing I could do so I just put up with it.. after a year my motor starting to slow down so I just went ahead and bought a grubee! some people said I would have to place rubber from an old intertube between the motor mounts and the bike frame but I didnt waste my time. Now with the grubee motor I can get up to 45 plus mph "when I adjust the choke right" without anly vibration
If you have to use the choke to make it "run right" then it'd NOT running right.

The choke it there for starting and warm up. If you have to use it any other time, you're not getting the most performance from your engine. May be causing premature wear or damage with the mixture lean enough that you have to choke it to run better.
 

bitsnpieces

New Member
Dec 9, 2010
195
0
0
36
Melbourne, AUS
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em

Don't try to use your clutch to take off.

What do you mean by using clutch to take off?

I always pedal a bit, get a bit of speed like the initial start of riding a bicycle before the actual accelerating and riding part, apply some throttle, let got of the clutch, and throttle on. I stop pedaling as soon as the throttle kicks in and I can hear it, and it'll be a low speed and then rev up quickly.

Am I doing it right or should I pedal to a higher speed before letting go of the clutch?

And how much heavier does the bike become after you put lead into the handlebars? Really want to reduce vibration, but I struggle enough as it is to lift the bike... Which I have to do when I get home to put it onto the steps to make room...
 

bitsnpieces

New Member
Dec 9, 2010
195
0
0
36
Melbourne, AUS
Okay :)

Still some little fine tunings to do on the bike now that I've had a good 35kms riding on it; ergh... such a busy day tomorrow.

Write up a talk, fix the bike. Boooo LOL
 

shellshock

New Member
Dec 10, 2010
11
0
0
mesa/Arizona
If you have to use the choke to make it "run right" then it'd NOT running right.

The choke it there for starting and warm up. If you have to use it any other time, you're not getting the most performance from your engine. May be causing premature wear or damage with the mixture lean enough that you have to choke it to run better.[/QUOTE/].


im just going to adjust the carb so I dont have to use the choke for better acceleration and higher top speed. I hate trying to adjust the carb because I always have to have the motor running when i do it, and I end dameaging the screw
 

wayne z

Active Member
Dec 5, 2010
1,743
5
38
louisiana
If you have to use the choke to make it "run right" then it'd NOT running right.

The choke it there for starting and warm up. If you have to use it any other time, you're not getting the most performance from your engine. May be causing premature wear or damage with the mixture lean enough that you have to choke it to run better.[/QUOTE/].


im just going to adjust the carb so I dont have to use the choke for better acceleration and higher top speed. I hate trying to adjust the carb because I always have to have the motor running when i do it, and I end dameaging the screw
What type carb do you have? The only screw adjustment on the stock carbs I know, is for idle speed.
If you need the choke to run right, sounds like running lean.
Try moving the needle clip inside the throttle slide, down a couple notches, this raises the tapered needle, allowing more fuel to richen the mixture.
Another possible cause might be the float level set too low.

Sometimes the gas caps don't vent. If it starts out running OK and starts needing choke after a few munites, try loosening the gascap.

In tank filters sometimes clog early from junk in the new tank. try draining gas into a container to make sure of no restrictons there.

The stock fuel filters don't always filter well. I've had one that you could see the element ratteling around loosely inside when running. Bad filter or no filter could result in trash blocking the carb float needle. To check this, remove float bowl and momentarily turn on fuel petcock. Fuel should dribble freely from under the carb
 
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GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em

And how much heavier does the bike become after you put lead into the handlebars? Really want to reduce vibration, but I struggle enough as it is to lift the bike... Which I have to do when I get home to put it onto the steps to make room...
Lead weighs alot. I mean come on.....it's lead!
This stuff always got good reviews from my customers when I worked in Harley shops. It weighs alot less that lead too.
Barsnake.com ©2010 Barsnake LLC
 

bitsnpieces

New Member
Dec 9, 2010
195
0
0
36
Melbourne, AUS
Well, I know lead is heavy, just wondering how much I'd need to put in to stabilise the bike and how much heavier it'd become. LOL

Bar snake looks interesting, but that aside, are there any other alternatives? I head something about sand, but would be clueless as to how that would work...
Or what else is there? Lots of cotton wool to cushion it all? :p
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
You really do not need to completely fill up the handlebars with lead, just the ends. You could first try 6 or 8 ounces just in the first 1 to 2 inches of the ends of the bars. This is exactly what the bar end weights are as used on super bikes, only they are cast iron not lead. They are there to reduce handlebar buzz and steady the mirrors. For that matter you could just go out and buy bar end weights from any good motorcycle dealership or aftermarket shop. The handlebar diameter is identical too, 7/8".
 
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TEM

New Member
Jun 28, 2009
8
0
0
Va
Hey forum,
I have a 48 cc grubee skyhawk motor on my bike. I also have a CNS carburator on it. I also replaced all the cheap chinese hardware with good strong american hardware. Other than that everything is stock. I have an Expansion chamber sitting in my garage which i am going to install once i break in the motor more as well as the new CNS carburator i purchase for it. I am running a 100:1 fuel ratio and just got the carburator where i want it. I finally got the carb tuned and the bike is running like a champ as of now. I am going to run a whole 2 tanks of 100:1 gas through it (is my first time ever using 100:1 fuel ratio it was 50:1)until i put the expansion chamber on. I have a list of parts i want to purchase for this bike until it is exacly what i want. My list begins with a jackshaft kit (standard jackshaft kit). Next, a boost bottle kit, "T" bars and finally nitrous kit. I did research on all these products and made up my mind to try and purchase and install all these parts on my bike until my bike is fully complete. I do not have any of these parts yet all I have right now is a CNS carb which is already installed, and expansion chamber which isnt. I am striving to get all these parts and install them after i get that expansion chamber on it and get the carb tuned once i install that expansion. I also wanted to get 26" all black rims on it. I saw a deal on spookytooth for both wheels at $45. I figured this was the best possible deal and was going to purchase them but spookytooth dissapeared from this site. Does anyone know what happened to it? Also do you have any advice for me and all the products i am going to install on my bike?
 

shoggoth80

New Member
Jan 30, 2011
22
0
0
Seattle
"something else that makes a nice round hole for your gaskets is a brass bullet shell. "
^ This, and if you reload, take your chamfer tool, and sharpen the mouth of the casing. That + a block of wood = super cheap cutting tool.
 

corgi1

New Member
Aug 13, 2009
2,272
3
0
KCMO
The gun needs to be sighted in real accurate for distance hole locating
on the intake gasket,,,lol
 

thine82

New Member
Nov 26, 2010
115
0
0
kingston ny
how about getting a rim trued and then using jb weld around where all the spoke adjusters are so it can not move and become un trued?? if they cant move then would the wheel stay true? if a few did move then we could see the jb weld broken and know those are the ones that need to be adjusted.... just a thought and i am going to try it out soon or maybe some tape or gorillia glue .. what do you guys think?
 

The_Aleman

Active Member
Jul 31, 2008
2,653
4
38
el People's Republik de Kalifornistan
how about getting a rim trued and then using jb weld around where all the spoke adjusters are so it can not move and become un trued?? if they cant move then would the wheel stay true? if a few did move then we could see the jb weld broken and know those are the ones that need to be adjusted.... just a thought and i am going to try it out soon or maybe some tape or gorillia glue .. what do you guys think?
Please tell me you're trying to be funny and joking. If not, the level of foolishness you are exhibiting is inversely proportional to your idealism. No offense. Spokes keep a wheel true via tension - which can easily change - possibly requiring adjustment. Your idea is too whiskey tango to possibly work. It is kinda funny tho, IMHO anyway laff
 
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bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
i'm with aleman on this. spoked wheels work because they flex. that's why soldering or ziptie-ing the crosses doesn't work, and that's why your idea won't work.

the JB weld would more than likely break up just from the wheel's natural tendency to flex, and then your innertube would have something to rub on and go flat.

if the JB weld actually held, then you wouldn't be able to true the wheel in the future, replace any damaged spokes, or re-lace in a new hub without having to clean up the mess.

if you want a solid wheel, get a solid wheel, like a mag wheel or something.