Bite the bullet

1. I have some parts that I have no idea what in the world they are. Could the collective help me identify them? (I know: the chain tensioner, the sprocket cover, the CDI, and the fuel tube. The other stuff I have no clue: The copper piece with a screw, the circular metal tube with 4 holes,the springs, and the plate with 3 hole and a bolt in it.)
the copper piece with a screw is for your clutch cable, it's a cable stop. holds the clutch cable tight in the clutch arm
the circular metal tube with 4 holes is for removing the spark-plug
the plate with 3 hole and a bolt in it is called a 'large frame adapter' and requires drilling a hole in the frame of your bike to mount the motor. I would NEVER drill a hole in a bike frame as there are other better ways to mount the motor in a large frame bike.

The chain, I would assume that the nut holding the sprocket on the motor would have to be removed for the chain to be successfully added on, and I need to buy a chain break to re-size the chain
there are a couple ways to get the chain in, I remove the cover on the magneto and use a socket wrench on that bolt to turn the motor and feed the chain through. Yes you will need to break the chain to get it to the proper size.


Before starting the motor for the first time should I take out the spark plug and and put some oil in there or would that be excessive with the oil already in the gas?
I've not heard of anyone doing that and didn't do it myself. I think it'll be fine without the extra oil there.

Anyone like to come and drink a few beers while giving good advice?
sorry I'm in Memphis TN and prefer my bud in a bowl not a bottle ;-)

the rear sprocket is VERY tricky, it's also important to get it centered and fairly straight, not much 'wobble' to it. just continue to work with it until it's right.
the springs are much easier
the bigger spring goes on the clutch cable housing next to the motor, on the right side of the bike, the smaller spring is the clutch return spring and goes on the cable between the clutch arm and the housing stop that's screwed into the motor under the carb.

I saw Willie play a free concert at the University of Memphis about 8-19 years ago. Who doesn't love Willie? Have you heard Toby Keiths song "I'll never smoke **** with Willie again"

dupe post duh

I have a manual, its a pdf file but its too large to send through this forum! I could pm you and send it to you e-mail.

The Spooky Tooth site has some reasonably good instructions as well. Beleive me if you had received the "Chinese-English" instructions that these engines normally come with you wouldn't have been any better off than you are now!

Example: "At the ends of the handle of the clutch, please ensure keep a certain free space, generally 2-3 mm."

It doesn't get any better either. Good luck and do not expect for a moment that your first install will go smoothly! Just keep trying and asking questions until it works! That's why we hang out here.

Try some tips from this site:
ZBOX MOTOR FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
ZBOX TIPS AND FEEDBACK

And if you're worried about the rear sprocket not centered, then try the shifter kit from Sick Bike Parts found on the upper left corner. But you might find it even more confusing with more parts.

I used a nylon hose, slit it lengthwise, put it inside the hole of the sprocket to act as a spacer between sprocket and hub. It does not totally put it in center, but it does prevent the sprocket to wobble too often.

whatever you do, don't let it get you down. Sometimes these motors can give you a real hard time.
I have replaced the crappy 415 chain that comes with the kit with a 41 chain from Tractor Supply Co. If the chain is a little long use some spacers at the rear motor mount to move the motor forward. If there is an inch of slack in the chain you will only need to use 1/4 to 1/2 inch spacers on the mount. This will allow you to be rid of another piece of frustrating equipment, the chain tensioner. The right amount of tension on the chain negates the use of a tensioner and when the chain stretches you can remove a link if needed or add another spacer on the rear mount.
good luck and happy motoring

Flat tires are a real hassle. Try using one of those Kevlar belted tires like the Maxxis Overdrive. For the wobbling sprocket, try to tighten the bolts and nuts at the same time, opposite nuts at a time. Takes a lot of patience...

Steel Gary Fisher is a good choice for a first build. Everything should fit well with some tinkering. It's also light; probably under 30 lbs.
I used a bicycle chain tool on my mo-bike chain. It was a pain in the butt because it didn't fit that well, but I was able to shorten the chain for a better fit.
There is an an installation manual for Chinese motors posted on this site. Click around until you find it.
The easiest way to build your bike is with a chum that has built one himself. (Beer should attract one). The rest of us have to rely on help from the erudite members of this forum, as I did. Cheers

Keep up the good work, it will be worth it.
I'm a retired certified mechanic and it took me 2-1/2 days to put it together.
After I threw away the instructions, it became easier.
Flat Tires Suck!

You talking about Pablos shifter kit? Sick Bike Parts or SBP a sponsor top left corner of page. Happy Trails Walter F.

inkstom said:

Speaking of which, where did y'all get the transmission, or whatever it is that drives the sprocket that attaches to the petals, that then can shift to the back sprocket on the back wheels?

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