What kit/engine to buy for fairest price?

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michaelbikin

Member
Jul 9, 2015
67
1
6
New Hampshire
Where and what kit/engine should I buy for the fairest price? I already have a cheap ebay kit that costed me 130 dollars, and it was labeled as being 80cc... which i know really means 66cc. Is it actually 66cc though or is it 48/49cc???? I need to know. Anyways, I am having trouble getting my kit to work, and I am thinking of atleast buying a new engine, the reason being because the clutch pin that sticks out in the middle of the 10 tooth drive sprocket will not push in, which results in me not being able to put my drive sprocket cover on and put the clutch lever that engages the clutch down into it... is there something I can do to fix this? I haven't been able to find much about it. If there is nothing that I can do, then I plan on buying a new engine, or buying a whole new kit for spare parts, where should I buy this, I want to spend below 150.

Thanks
 
knightscape

knightscape

Member
Jul 29, 2013
340
1
16
Maine
You likely won't be able to push that pin (called the "bucking bar") in by hand, you need the camshaft and lever attached to have proper leverage to get it to move. The cover should fit on over it though, the camshaft flat should rest against it and the cover should mount up flush. Can you not do that? The ball bearing is what the bucking bar bears against, order from outside to inside is camshaft, bucking bar, ball bearing. It should be able to spin freely.

Should actually be 66cc if being sold as an 80, not 49.
 
crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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be sure the clutch arm is properly seated in that cover and pointing toward the rear before tightening that cover - from the factory, that cover might need to push the bar a bit as the bolts are tightened (you can re-adjust that later)

you need to read more here and get excited less if you want to get it working right
 
crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
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I meant that planing for another engine just because you don't know much yet about how to use the one you have is a very premature decision, and shows a definite lack of patience with the learning process.
 
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michaelbikin

Member
Jul 9, 2015
67
1
6
New Hampshire
Oh, I understand what you are saying... I agree with that and am going to hold off on that until I figure out what is wrong, I might post a video and give you guys the link for help soon.
 
Davezilla

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
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I'm definitely agreeing with crassius here but I will also do my best to help get your bike on the road... the first thing you need to do is explain in as accurate detail as possible what issues you're having and posting pics always makes it easy for us to see what's wrong, right, or needs to be done differently.

From just what I read it sounds like you need to clock the clutch cam so the cover sits flush, then you can bolt the cover on, gotta leave the cover off to get the chain on tho... there is a way to feed the chain in with the cover on but it's a lot easier for a beginner to set it up with the cover off.. the thing here is even if you buy a new engine from one of the best vendors you'll run into the same issues, the info is all in here but you can still ask and get help, most of us won't make you search...
 
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michaelbikin

Member
Jul 9, 2015
67
1
6
New Hampshire
I really appreciate your help, I already have the chain on, are you saying that I should take it off in order to somehow get the cover to fit flush? I will most likely have a video up tomorrow explaining and showing all my problems, YouTube seems to be the easiest.
 
Davezilla

Davezilla

New Member
Mar 15, 2014
2,705
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San Antonio Texas
It sounds to me like if the cover isn't going on its either the clutch cam not clocked correctly... basically the arm needs to point back... the ball needs to be inside the hole, then the bucking bar goes in after the ball. Also with the bucking bar in properly it should be sticking out about 1/4", if it's in flush with the sprocket or sticking way out, then we need to find out why, it could be something else is in there that shouldn't be, an extra ball could be in there, or the bucking bar was cut too long from the factory... I've seen all the above so rule nothing out...
If this has already all been done and checked, then pics or a video will be very helpful
 
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michaelbikin

Member
Jul 9, 2015
67
1
6
New Hampshire
Oh, I found out, I just referred to it as "the pin." right behind that is a ball, and you can see on my other thread regarding to the clutch how far the bucking bar is sticking out.
 
Nashville Kat

Nashville Kat

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2009
1,501
55
48
Jacksonville, Florida
I think you can turn the motor on it's side and you may have to jar it to get the ball bearing out-

Basically ONE bearing goes under the bucking bar and then the cover should fit on with the clutch handle unengaged- wide open. The clutch is then engaged when the cable pulls it tight against the bucking bar and ball bearing.

I have one question- if the chain is already on, how did that happen? I usually have to engage the clutch- and granted not that easy, by pushing in on the bucking bar- to allow the chain to move forward and OVER the 10 motor sprocket. I think I took the plug out so there is no real compression, and carefully leveraged the teeth forward with a screwdriver until I could grab the chain once it was around the sprocket.

Did you remove the sprocket or something? if you reinstalled that incorrectly, that may be why the cover doesn't fit.
 
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crassius

crassius

Well-Known Member
Sep 30, 2012
4,032
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63
USA
a spark plug wrench from the kit will turn that sprocket to put the chain on (19mm)

cover should have been on motor when delivered, so I'd not look for an extra ball, just put cover om & try it
 
2door

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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Littleton, Colorado
Correction is in order here:

Engaged, means the clutch lever is not pulled (un-squeezed).

Disengaged, means the clutch lever is pulled in, (squeezed)

Engaged: Coupled, together, made as one unit.

Disengaged: Separated, apart, divided into different sections or units.

When the clutch is 'engaged' the clutch friction surfaces are forced 'together' making their movements as one.

When the clutch is 'disengaged' the friction surfaces are moved 'apart' 'separated' and movement as a unit is halted.

Why are these terms so often misunderstood and misquoted?

Tom
 
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