Motor bogging at start up low speed
- Thread starter AaronF
- Start date
You can push the ground electrode on something hard to close it. Don't push it hard, they bend easily.
To open it up I use a gapper tool Performance Tool Combination Tune-up Thickness Gauge : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories. available at any auto parts store. I recommend the ones with a wire feeler gauges for checking the gap setting.
You can also grip the sides of the ground electrode with a small pair of vice grips. Do not clamp them down hard though, you do not want to crush pinch the little thing. Never, ever use a screwdriver to pry the electrode open, You will run a high chance of breaking the center elecrrode if you do.
To open it up I use a gapper tool Performance Tool Combination Tune-up Thickness Gauge : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories. available at any auto parts store. I recommend the ones with a wire feeler gauges for checking the gap setting.
You can also grip the sides of the ground electrode with a small pair of vice grips. Do not clamp them down hard though, you do not want to crush pinch the little thing. Never, ever use a screwdriver to pry the electrode open, You will run a high chance of breaking the center elecrrode if you do.
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Thank you very much for the advice,I will be picking the tool up tomorrow at the auto parts store.Now once i do gap the spark plug correctly,it should fix the bogging from the motor right? Is there a thread/website showing witch parts need to be maintained correctly ever so often such as greasing the clutch keeping things in good performance etc.?Thank ya!
Maybe maybe not. could you describe the bogging when slowing down? i would have thought you would be off the gas when slowing down.
if the bike runs clean up the rev range you fine.
Do some testing with you plug gap my bike wont run very well at the .020 thats recomended
if the bike runs clean up the rev range you fine.
Do some testing with you plug gap my bike wont run very well at the .020 thats recomended
Well the best i can describe the bogging would be well basically..When i slow down slowly to say 3-4MPH my whole bike will shake rapidly including myself an also when i start to rev up to go.I've been doing daily checkups on the mounting an bolt checks making sure everything is in place so that's all good.I'm still not sure weather my mixing ratio is close to being accurate,I filled the mixer up to 8o.z as recommend on the 2 cycle oil bottle and then mixed in with 1 gallon of gas..One other thing i have noticed when i am at a slow speed,there is a whirling sound coming from the drive side of the motor.I am sorry for all the questions and needing advise,I have tried so hard to get my second kit going the right way this time unlike the first engine kit that's just sitting here doing nothing!I'll be heading over to the auto store tomorrow to pick up the spark plug gapper tool,boot plug an the 7mm wire that is suggested.
ok dude my bike and everyone i know does the same thing... its 100% normal
Your basicly bunny hopping ya bike as the speed your traveling is less than what your motor or the ignition system can handle ie the cdi wont spark evenly at that speed.
You can hear that sound because your going so slow, im sure it gets louder as speed increases but because of the added motor noise you cannot here it again its normal.
I have had 7 engine kits and all of them jerked and learched at speeds around 5mph(you have to pull the clutch in at that kind of speed)Now my last engine does not jerk and learch at low rpms like the others,it is super smooth,but in my experience you have to pull the clutch in at around 5mph or so....I hear that if you buy the bolt on cyntrifical clutch setup for 39.95 it cures this jerking problem at low speeds,but I have not tried one yet.....
John-John
John-John
Yeah i didn't know what was up because my first kit was truly badass it ran very smooth.Then again i know now why boygofast an luckyearlybird on ebay blocked me from contacting them an trying to get replacement parts from them,because i complained to them when they wouldn't do a darn thing for me..People on ebay that sell these motors besides the few here that do,actually know what there doing unlike the two i mentioned an will screw you out of money
I figured it was something in the engine itself that was causing the bogging sense the first motor was extremely smooth,i assumed this one should be the same but when you got something pulling that hard on ya bike its going to jerk around like mentioned
I figured it was something in the engine itself that was causing the bogging sense the first motor was extremely smooth,i assumed this one should be the same but when you got something pulling that hard on ya bike its going to jerk around like mentioned
boggs and jerks are just the kind of thing that will happen.
i noticed my new engine was starting to run like crap yesterday and it is most likely loose head nuts. i retorqued em tonight. tomorrow during my lunck break im gonna give my bike a go over and mabye do a jetting check
i noticed my new engine was starting to run like crap yesterday and it is most likely loose head nuts. i retorqued em tonight. tomorrow during my lunck break im gonna give my bike a go over and mabye do a jetting check
Caveat Emptor.
Buyer Beware.
Many sellers hide behind the veil of E bay.
They know darn well that they are selling junk.
Their motto is "a fool and his money are soon parted".
I no longer buy anything from E bay.
I read the vendor reviews, checked for the "star rating" , and played the fool twice. Now I play no more. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me!
yeah. I'm having the same problem here.. I tried the idle adjust, and just took apart the throttle configuration at the engine to see if the inner works were functioning properly, and it seems that upon twisting the throttle, it isn't doing squat to move the pin/plunger at all.. everything appears to be set up right, it just doesn't want to do the job.. it just moves the entire apparatus up and down, not the inner c-ring thingy...
The entire throttle slide assembly is supposed to move as a unit. If only the needle and c ring thingy moved you could not get an increase in air flow.
Hmmm.... You do have the notched washer that goes inbetween the slide spring and jet needle/ c ring thingy right?
Hmmm.... You do have the notched washer that goes inbetween the slide spring and jet needle/ c ring thingy right?
well..if that's the case, then that apparently isn't the issue that's causing the hang up...
So at this point, it's probably an electrical issue.. I got the throttle to move freely via lubing the wire/throttle assembly... The spark plug has a light coating af black muck and the exhaust is dripping what appears to be carbonized gas, which is confusing to me b/c if it IS a lack of spark, then why carbonization? Could it be remnant from the alleged test run Grubee gives their motors before leaving the factory?
idle pin is at 3.5 turns
air intake is at max (lever down)
fuel is the 1:100 Opti-2 that everyone seems to dig here..
upon releasing clutch, I get the putting whir of the motor, but absolutely no acceleration whatsoever, then it craps out after 3-4 seconds.
that's the set up and the symptoms...
So at this point, it's probably an electrical issue.. I got the throttle to move freely via lubing the wire/throttle assembly... The spark plug has a light coating af black muck and the exhaust is dripping what appears to be carbonized gas, which is confusing to me b/c if it IS a lack of spark, then why carbonization? Could it be remnant from the alleged test run Grubee gives their motors before leaving the factory?
idle pin is at 3.5 turns
air intake is at max (lever down)
fuel is the 1:100 Opti-2 that everyone seems to dig here..
upon releasing clutch, I get the putting whir of the motor, but absolutely no acceleration whatsoever, then it craps out after 3-4 seconds.
that's the set up and the symptoms...
i am assuming that the throttle kill switch wiring I had was the same as everyone elses- being a black wire and a red wire with a coupler on it.. the red one is the ground, not the one that connects to the blue CDI, right? the wonderful instructions I got with the kit: one wire goes to the white wire from the engine and the other to the engine cover screw which is the ground"
HUH?
I have a blue and a black wire coming out of my CDI, and blue,black,and white wires coming out of the engine.. The white wire is the engine ground, right?
Anyone have any pics of how they wired in the kill switch?
HUH?
I have a blue and a black wire coming out of my CDI, and blue,black,and white wires coming out of the engine.. The white wire is the engine ground, right?
Anyone have any pics of how they wired in the kill switch?
I am having the same problems with my throttling as you did besides when the slide an clip goes down onto the idler screw,the slide itself turns to where the notch will not line up with the idler screw.I've tried lubing an using some WD-40 an it still does it.Any other suggestions?
Between the CDI box and engine magneto: Wire it black (mag.) to black (CDI) to black (kill button) all 3 together.
Blue (mag.) to blue (CDI) to red (kill button) all 3 together.
The white wire is for powering a simple lighting system. 3 amps maximum power draw.
If you are not planning on using it, tape it off so it will not touch anything else.
It is thought to be best to not use the kill button on the handlebar because all it does is short out the magneto to shut the engine off. It is better to use a toggle switch arrangement of your choice between the blue wires to connect and disconnect them.
On a side note:
Some folks wire the white wire as a kill wire. That shorts out the magneto as well. Not good, it will eventually cook the wires inside the magneto.
Sadly, some of the instructions show the white wire as a kill wire. That is not correct either.
Blue (mag.) to blue (CDI) to red (kill button) all 3 together.
The white wire is for powering a simple lighting system. 3 amps maximum power draw.
If you are not planning on using it, tape it off so it will not touch anything else.
It is thought to be best to not use the kill button on the handlebar because all it does is short out the magneto to shut the engine off. It is better to use a toggle switch arrangement of your choice between the blue wires to connect and disconnect them.
On a side note:
Some folks wire the white wire as a kill wire. That shorts out the magneto as well. Not good, it will eventually cook the wires inside the magneto.
Sadly, some of the instructions show the white wire as a kill wire. That is not correct either.
The slide should not be able to turn or twist at all inside the carburetor.
There is a groove going down the side of the throttle slide. It locates over a small brass pin inside the carburetor's slide bore. Is that brass pin there? If so, is it long enough to properly fit into the groove in the side of the slide? Not just rest near the groove, but go in it deep enough as to stop the slide from turning.
wow. this is my 4rth build out and that's the first cohesive answer on the wiring dilemma I've ever gotten back! Thank you sir. Tonight I dedicate my next beer to you.
