Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

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cyclepro101

New Member
May 13, 2009
129
0
0
NEWCASTLE
Not sure where I got this tip from but it is a great way to lube the chain.
What I do is mix in a small bottle 50% WD-40 and 50% Graphite powder. It goes on real easy and ends up being a dry lube. Works a treat and no mess.
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
21
0
Maine
Place a small magnet inside the finger of a rubber glove,you can place nuts or bolts in some tight places.Sears sells a pair of magnet gloves for 25 bucks,make your own for nothing.HARLEYS DAD

damn yer eyes... I coulda used this tip years ago, don't I feel foolish for not thinkin of this :D

Thanks man!
dance1
 

kla63

New Member
Jul 15, 2009
111
0
0
NEW HAMSHIRE
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em

These engines were originally made to haul around people for a tiny sip of fuel, low operating costs, and ease of MAINTENANCE....kinda like the old V-Dub beetle. Or the early Honda step through. Or the model T.

Top performance for these engines then should be defined as great fuel mileage, ease of operation and low overall cost.

Some are treating these engines like they should do something other than putt around on a litre of fuel all day and get you where you are going with a minimum of drama.

You aren't going to make one of these engines haul you down the coast @ 40+ MPH or win any stop light drags with that blue haired lady in the Volvo. (although, you may)

You aren't going to find any magic fuel or "performance" add-on that is going to do anything you can't do for pretty much free with the exception being your time. Coleman fuel? nah...super duper spark plug thingy? nah....NOS or turbos? Are you serious? You aren't really serious, are you?

100+ MPG? Yes. Easy running, and easy maintenance? Yes. Lots of tinkering and learning to do maintenence and repairs? Yes, if you want to keep riding it. Fun? Of course, why else would you want to own one?

Buy a good plug, and a good replacement sparkplug wire cap from Pep Boys or other favorite large auto outlet.
Never remove a sparkplug from a hot engine, you may remove the threads from the head as well.
Here's a list of replacement plugs- do it today!

NGK B5HS (preferred)
Champion L86C
Champion CJ7Y low profile or CJ-8
Autolite 4093 or 425


Mix your fuel/oil mixture @ 20:1 for break-in and 36:1 after.

Buy some good gasket paper DON'T MAKE ONE FROM A CEREAL BOx! (really cheap) and make a couple intake gaskets, and install one, even if you think yours is fine. You can make gaskets really easily by drawing the new gasket by using the old gasket as a pattern, and no, it doesn't have to be PERFECT. Use an exacto knife and take your time, finish the rough stuff with some 220 sandpaper. Some of you (me) old-timers will use the "good old ball peen hammer method" to make the gaskets.

Make sure your carb is set right and that means check where the needle clip is, start at the second from the bottom in most cases. One slot lower near sea level. I have two bikes and they are both set up diferently due to poor tolerances in manufacturing FIND THE ONE THAT WORKS FOR YOU- it just depends on your carb and your elevation. (I'm @ 1000' here)

Clean out your tank before you mount it...at least look in there and see if it's full of rust or crud. You can use a shop vac ONLY IF THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ONE DROP OF FUEL...otherwise you'll blow your shop vac to smithereens.

While your in a cleaning mood, pop off the mag side cover and clean all the metal shavings out of there with some spray can brake cleaner and compressed air. Check the area around the sprocket too- full of metal dust!

To save yourself a lot of hassle, buy a length of M6X1.00 pitch threaded rod and REPLACE ALL THE STUDS. Or make them outta bolts like I did. Those would be the intake, exhaust and also the four mounting studs. The originals are made of "anti-metal" and will strip at the first inopportune moment.

Secure all wires with zip ties or electricians tape so none are pulling at the ends or connections. Seal up any ends/connections that are in doubt with liquid electricians tape...READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN!

Grease your gears with some wheel bearing grease or lithium grease before you ever fire the engine up, then again after about 50 miles. USE ONLY A TINY AMOUNT OR YOU'LL BE CLEANING THE CLUTCH SOON. (a dab about the size of a pencil eraser is PLENTY. Clean them first with some brake cleaner, or carb cleaner, then lube.
Don't spray brake or carb cleaner in your eyes, you won't be doing anything else on the bike for awhile afterwards, if ever.

While you are greasing stuff remove, clean and grease all your wheel bearings, or YOU WILL BE SORRY. Bicycles are not really made to haul a 200+ pound guy over the road and all the bumps/potholes/ect @ 25-35 mph. The bearings take a massive beating. Use red grease because it starts to turn black when it needs servicing.

Make sure your chain is aligned and lubed. Same goes for the pulley/tensioner. Don't make the chain TOO TIGHT. 3/4-1" play.
Always clip on your masterlink so the opened end faces toward the rear when it's at the top of the chain run and going forward.

Zip tie your spokes where they cross while you are installing your sprocket.

Balance your wheels- I used solder wrapped around the spokes at the rim. You can buy stick on weights at the sporting goods store...in the golf aisle.

Don't try to use your clutch to take off.

Use loctite on every bolt you put a wrench on, and don't OVERTIGHTEN the head bolts, or any bolt that goes into aluminum. 15-20 ft/lbs. is enough, and that goes for the spark plug too! While we're on the subject, you do use anti-seize compound on the plug threads, don't you? Never remove a sparkplug from a hot engine, you may remove the threads from the head as well.

Make sure your brakes are up to par. Stuff hurts more @ 35MPH than it does @ 10MPH, especially if it stops you before your brakes do.

Ride defensively, because the only drivers that will see you are the ones you DON'T want to see you- aka "da fuzz".

If you have a problem with dogs chasing you- eventually they get old and bored and leave you alone...if they are smart.
what do you set your spark plug gap at ???
 

RaleighRider

New Member
Jul 3, 2009
23
0
0
New York
When I first put my kit on my raleigh, the chain tensioner would not stay put. Nomatter how tight I made it, it would be fine for a few minutes, then the chain would pull it, causing it to rotate into the spokes. It only rotated and did not slide.

Problem: Tensioner falls into the spokes under strain.
Solution: Simple-Drill a hole through the tensioner mount and the piece of frame where it is clamped on. Put a bolt through the hole and secure it with a nut. This makes it impossible for it to rotate.
I have had no problems since doing this.
 

RaleighRider

New Member
Jul 3, 2009
23
0
0
New York
Place a small magnet inside the finger of a rubber glove,you can place nuts or bolts in some tight places.Sears sells a pair of magnet gloves for 25 bucks,make your own for nothing.HARLEYS DAD
I have a big old magnet I found somewhere a long time ago about the size of a TV remote. If I need to get a screw in somewhere tight I rub my screwdriver on it for a few seconds to magnetize it. When I want to demagnetize I just whack the screwdriver on something hard a few times and that does it. Makes life a lot easier for me, just be careful what you magnetize...
 

yodabob

New Member
Jun 29, 2008
82
0
0
North Wales PA
Not to put a weak point in your wheel stay tube by putting a hole in it, might I recommend that the next time you take the outer half of the tensioner bracket at just below center line of your frame tube and drill and tap it 1/4-20 and put a set screw in it and torque that against the tube after tensioner is tight.
Yodabob legal in PA
YouTube - motorized bike street legal in PA
 

myocardia

New Member
Jul 29, 2009
62
0
0
near Dallas, TX
I may look goofy when riding, but a real helmet and high-visibility jacket states I am serious about getting home at the end of my ride. Now if we could only better avoid the cagers intent on ruining our day....
My tip is to shoot at the first two or three that get close, and the rest of them will give you all the room you need.;)
 
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fakeplay

New Member
Jul 26, 2009
67
0
0
newburyport ma
You know most of us do things eventually to modify the bikes for the better or worse. It would be a nice gesture if we stick them out there for others to see.

Take this one for what it is worth.

The clutch lever in my kit was trash from the first. I never could make it work worth a darn, so I replaced it with a brake lever I had laying about. Here is the trick. I cut a piece of old inner tube to lock the handle up so I could roll the bike in and out. I leave it on the grip so I can use it to hold the clutch in if I need to adjust the bike.

I also hated the throttle that came with the bike. I replace it with a shifter from a mountain bike. I can lock the throttle in any position while I work on things. I don't think either of those is earth shattering, but they seem to work better for me. Probably won't help anyone else.

So leave me your tip I can use all the help I can get...
If your kit doesn't work sa advertized my tip is to send it back until you get one that works properl. The ell with micky mousing everything.
 

Revo

New Member
Aug 11, 2009
15
0
0
Az.
I did'nt read ALL the tips, but I'm leaving one and it might already be in here but I did'nt see it. When u need to replace your spark plug boot go get a coil wire from napa for 4.00 buck cut it in half and u will have two new plug wires.
 

MikeJ

New Member
May 3, 2009
82
0
0
Colorado Springs
I run with a jackshaft kit from Sick Bike Parts on a frame with no fenders. I recently realized that I can jam a length of cardboard box corner, 2 inches x 2 inches x 15 inches, into the frame, separating the exposed jackshaft, sprockets, and chains from the 26 inch tire and flying road debris.

The cardboard is rigid enough to hold itself into place, but can be bent at the corners to jam itself at the bottom bracket and into the rear wheel down arms. The cardboard is also kind of easy to cut into custom wider shape at the area between the jackshaft and wheel. Unless the cardboard gets water-soaked, it should last a long time and keep the moving parts cleaner. It clears the tire by a quarter inch or so. It rubs against the jackshaft a little, but a bit of axle grease at that location makes the contact a non-issue.

Spray paint it with matching (or contrasting) color and it looks like a factory add-on. Spray on the inside angle and make it water proof. If necessary, it is easy to remove and replace, maybe with different paint; maybe some ownership indentification.

MikeJ
 
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mechanickid

New Member
Aug 7, 2008
419
0
0
nh
I run with a jackshaft kit from Sick Bike Parts on a frame with no fenders. I recently realized that I can jam a length of cardboard box corner, 2 inches x 2 inches x 15 inches, into the frame, separating the exposed jackshaft, sprockets, and chains from the 26 inch tire and flying road debris.

The cardboard is rigid enough to hold itself into place, but can be bent at the corners to jam itself at the bottom bracket and into the rear wheel down arms. The cardboard is also kind of easy to cut into custom wider shape at the area between the jackshaft and wheel. Unless the cardboard gets water-soaked, it should last a long time and keep the moving parts cleaner. It clears the tire by a quarter inch or so. It rubs against the jackshaft a little, but a bit of axle grease at that location makes the contact a non-issue.

MikeJ
i did the same thing with a left over piece of vinyl siding i cut to fit, very light and self supportive.
 

Earthman

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
82
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
Easy & cheap way to mount a flashlight.

Here's an easy and cheap way to mount a flashlight to the handlebars of your MB. Use two tangential screw clamps (that's the technical name, but you may call them worm gear clamps, or hose clamps) as shown in the attached photos. The flashlight is clamped securely, but there's enough "flex" to adjust the beam to where you need it. The cost is only a few dollars.
 

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